please help me understand plows

   / please help me understand plows #11  
I too am a relative newbie to plows.
To me the purpose of the turning plow was to turn the top layers of soil over, laying it "grass" side down, which my box blade doesn't do.
I bought my 16" single bottom Howse to turn over new ground with my M4700. In my Virginia clay I found I probably need to load the rears for more traction.
 
   / please help me understand plows #12  
Ive got that exact one but i bought it to help dig shallow ditches for waterlines or electric lines in conduit. It works on but you have to make multiple passes and while it will dig a small trench they aint pretty. Now if you had one of those that had say 3 plows on it that would basically break up a larger area than that single one which would work good for a garden.
 
   / please help me understand plows #13  
There is a big difference between a true chisel plow and that 5 shank ripper. The chisel plow turns over the soil while the ripper will just tear up the ground. A good rule of thumb would be 10+ hp per shank on the chisel plow. I have a 7 shank and it can make my 88 Hp tractor really work.
 
   / please help me understand plows #14  
6011Artist has some valid points to help you consider what to do. (But I'd use 7018 instead. :laughing: :laughing:)

Another issue came to mind this morning. Is the land you are working weedy or have straw? If it does then the shank plow is going to clog up and act more like a rake. The same thing will happen with the scarifers on a box blade. You'll have big piles of debris all over the area as you have to lift the implement to clear it.

The best way to avoid the problem is to mow the area as short as possible. If it is not possible to deal with the debris problem then the middle buster idea may be superior. That is, unless you can find a single bottom plow. But as 6011Artist points out, it will take quite a while to cover the area. Then there still is the root issue.

Also, the shank plow may require some additional weight to get it to sink into the ground. The one in the link you posted did not appear to have an easy way to add concrete blocks or other weight. A box blade has the metal of the box to help the tines sink in.

You will get a lot of answers if you actually go out and try the box blade scaifiers. Only then will the better method become clear.
 
   / please help me understand plows
  • Thread Starter
#15  
My fear with the five shank is that i wouldnt have a use for it after words. Also my land is really weedy. The area is right around an acre. I think I'm going to take advice fromeveryone and see what the box blade will do. Also go ahead and by the middle buster and sub soiler combo. As an electrician, I will always have a use for it. Also for the leveling part I can just use the box blade or build a drag.
 
   / please help me understand plows
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Well it doesnt appear the box blade is a viable option. I hooked it up tilted it all the forward and the box was still catching dirt and causing me to lose traction. I could use some wheels weights and that would help but at the end of theday its just a small tractor. Also that was with two rippers removed.
 
   / please help me understand plows #17  
Well it doesnt appear the box blade is a viable option. I hooked it up tilted it all the forward and the box was still catching dirt and causing me to lose traction. I could use some wheels weights and that would help but at the end of theday its just a small tractor. Also that was with two rippers removed.

you don't have enough tractor to play the game you want to play ,plain and simple .
 
   / please help me understand plows
  • Thread Starter
#18  
As I agree, but I think its more or less the way I am trying to play. I dont think it would have an issue with a sub soiler. But I think the most effective way is to get a tiller. Ill price a 3pt tiller but I may have to just work with a hand tiller. After I have broken ground and the weeds have died off, I think the tractor could plow
 
   / please help me understand plows #19  
As I agree, but I think its more or less the way I am trying to play. I dont think it would have an issue with a sub soiler. But I think the most effective way is to get a tiller. Ill price a 3pt tiller but I may have to just work with a hand tiller. After I have broken ground and the weeds have died off, I think the tractor could plow

Not enough horse power !Not enough weight ! Not enough traction ! Not enough tractor ! Sorry but your best bet may be to rent something for a day or two to do the hard work and break it all down to where your tractor could handle the rest !
 
   / please help me understand plows #20  
As I agree, but I think its more or less the way I am trying to play. I dont think it would have an issue with a sub soiler. But I think the most effective way is to get a tiller. Ill price a 3pt tiller but I may have to just work with a hand tiller. After I have broken ground and the weeds have died off, I think the tractor could plow

Then make it a point to live on Craigs list and buy used. I had wanted a tiller and gave up. a 5 footer new was going to cost me about $2K and I couldn't justify it.

I had read here on TBN a lot and it seemed for my purposes I would need either a plow and a disc harrow OR a tiller. But low and behold soon after I bought my plow BUT (thankfully) before I plunked down $900 for a new disc harrow a 5' KK in great condition turned up on CL near me for $800.

You should be able to get a lightly used 4' 3pt tiller for about $700 or less if your patient.
 
 
 
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