Thanks. I just spoke with Misty at Flail Master. They are sending a sample blade (knife?).
Here you go. just click on the digital download link
Free Catalog
She is sending me a blade which is 4.7 in long as opposed to the OEM which is 4.5. Don't see a problem. Same 3/8 inch hole. My only concern is the sample blade is I believe 1.25wide whereas the OEM is 1.75. I may not have enough overlap to get a proper cut.
Not sure I think the sample is MH 386 on page 8 of catalog. $.66 each instead of $3 each through Agri Supply.
Do most people just reuse the locknuts etc. I would think so. Agri supply sells all the little bits like nut etc at outragous prices. Glad we have Home Depot.
Hello drjay,
Are the locknuts the all metal type which are difficult to
turn or are they the nylon insert type of lock nut?
In either case purchasing boxes of the lock nut from
Fastenal is an option rather than purchasing by the unit.
Dont forget that the nuts and bolts are metric as is the
shackle which holds the Y blade pair.
About the side slicer length The worry is whether the base of
the side slicer cutting edge will contact the other side slicer
of the same length. The shackle hangers are attached on the
flailmower rotor to allow splicing and overlapping of the cut
for the Y blades( You purchased the four row finish flail if my memory is correct?)
I wish flail mower knive attachment was as easy for everyone
else as it is for me with the spring latches on my Mathews Co. Lawn Genie.
When you have the flail mower on its back to check for the ability of
the knive to be mounted on the shackle Please do the following-
1.Leave the left side slicer attached to the shackel in question
2. remove the right side slicer from this shackle
3. install the sample knive in the shackle and let it lie agains the rotor.
4. take a piece of chalk or a marker and simply dot where the end
of the side slicer is
on the rotor. This indicates approximately where the centerline
is for the tip of the side
slicer when it is orbiting the rotor.
a. remove adjacent shackle and the left side slicer of this shackle(facing you)
install then install the sample knive in its position.
b. lower the sideslicer to the rotor and eaxmine the area where the chalk mark is where
you positioned the knive on shackle next to it previously if there is clearance
between them you should be fine.
c. The next issue is going to be a bit hardere to determine,YOU have to be sure the
replacement side slicer from flail master will properly orbit the flailmower and not impact
the mower hood.
This can be accomplished by removing the top link connection and
then permitting the mower to roll back on itself AND allow the
mower hood to be vertical rather than on its back to check the
next issue(it avoids spilling oil for the most part-but put a rag
under the gearbox vent just in case).
NOW take the side slicer sample knive and place it in the shackle and hold it up horizontally with the side slicers blade tip pointing at the mower shroud The side slicer knive should clear the mowr hood and if not you will not be able to use the sample knive as it will impact the shroud when it starts spinning.
My feeling about this is that if you wish to replace all the knives you should only replace 44 of them at first and then mount the 44 knives on the two opposing rows of knive hangers with he shackles provided and then mow with it to see if there are any issues with the new slicer knive splicing on the two opposing rows of knive mounting stations.
My Mathews has a large diameter rotor drum which permits me to have 4 rows of short 3 inch side slicer knives(64 side slicers with slotted hanger holes and to also carry 3 inch dethatching blades with slotted hanger holes) in the knive hangers.
