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  1. #11
    Super Star Member IslandTractor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swick1 View Post
    I welded on a piece of AR400 to my ripper which is a very abrasion resistant steel. It won't hardly cut with a grinder. If i had it to do over again i'd try putting the cutting teeth on the inside instead of the outside. The 1" thick plate was a bit too wide for my hoe but would be probably about right for yours. When I curl it under a root with the boom extended I can pull the front wheels off of the ground. The limitation is not curl force, but lifting in the boom and crowding in the stick. I want to make a quick attach for my bucket and the ripper because the ripper is hard to get on and off. It's much heavier than the bucket. I found that overall it's best to use the ripper in conjunction with a sawzall that has a 12" pruning blade.
    I like the sawzall idea. There are certainly times when the ripper has pulled up a big root when it would be faster to hop off the tractor and use a battery powered sawzall to make a quick cut rather than trying to rip a root that is flexible enough to bend rather than cut with the ripper.

  2. #12
    Bronze Member bluehog's Avatar
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    Glendale, AZ & Quemado Lake Estates, NM
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    New Holland TC35D 2001

    Default Re: Ripper tooth design - need your advice

    Okay, so I am getting the gist of the action needed to remove the stumps. More vertical approach rather than extending dipper & boom. Use the bucket curl to position under the root, then lifting to tear/split the root.

    Positioning in the manner I can see where the interior teeth would make a difference. So is it better to have a few large teeth or numerous smaller ones? What shape teeth do you think would work best... shark tooth shape, hook shape, etc.? Still plan on making the entire interior surface a knife edge shape... but with teeth added?

    Sawzall will be added to my tool list! And yes I can see where the weight of the ripper will be substantially heavier than the bucket. I'll need to make a cradle to support it in a balanced vertical position. Guess I'll add a couple of eyebolt holes to attach a short chain with hooks to p/u and move around.
    "Mr.B" 2001 TC35D 16LA loader, Woods BH9000 BH with Bro-Tek thumb , Goossen CS-1PTO chipper/shredder, Land Pride PD-15 post hole digger

  3. #13
    Super Star Member IslandTractor's Avatar
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    If I were to make a Mk2 version of my ripper, it would have serrated teeth in front and a sharp hook type tooth on the backside. Cut while curling and if necessary then rip a chunk out by using the backside.

    Mine is heavy but I can lift it so no real need for a hook. Perhaps a chain to wrap around it.

    A stand would be great but I fear the power of the BH would destroy any stand while trying to make adjustments. Makes more sense to me to simply have a hole in the ground to put the ripper in while mounting it.

  4. #14
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    Albany OR
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    Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160

    Default Re: Ripper tooth design - need your advice

    I agree with the inside teeth, probably the outer hook tooth also - My intention, when the ripper gets to the top of the project list, is to cut some 1-1/4" x 3-1/2" pieces of AR400 plate (1/2" thick) with the plasma, then arrange them along the front edge of the ripper with each one overlapping the next one by about 1/2", kinda like taking a bunch of dominoes and overlapping them end to end.

    If I start with the furthest "domino" from the point of the ripper, AND make the narrow cuts all angled maybe 30 degrees of "underbite", they will form saw teeth 1/2" deep and 1-1/4" wide along the front edge of the ripper.

    I've used this stuff before for wear edges, and as previously mentioned it's REALLY HARD stuff. Also, since normal mig hardwire is effectively "low hydrogen", I won't need to use 7018/stick welder unless I want to.

    In use, for tougher roots I'm envisioning just a slight amount of curl, with the ripper deep behind root, then crowd just a bit and raise the boom - with those teeth each taking about 1/2" of material, I'm thinking 2 or 3 passes at a root and it'll give up.

    I started to make a sketch of this, but all I have available ATM is Paint, which is 'way too limited for such a "non-square" design. Hopefully the explanation will do... Steve

  5. #15
    Super Star Member IslandTractor's Avatar
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    I get the idea.

    In my experience, roots that don't break with first contact are either too big or too flexible. I think the teeth would help with both but are not a perfect solution.

    Too big is easy to understand and though the teeth would help, I kinda like the idea of a good lithium powered sawzall to make quick work. Downside is getting off the tractor but upside is not dragging the tractor around or pushing hard on BH or tractor. I haven't tried it yet and will likely give a tug or two with the ripper before dismounting but I think it will actually save time.

    The too flexible roots may also be best dealt with by the saw. I have a hook on the back of my ripper that does help but the limited movement of the curl can make it frustrating. It also is a somewhat unnatural movement to control the ripper in a backwards push with simultaneous "dump" motion. I'm sure it can be mastered but when you don't use the ripper everyday it is awkward.

  6. #16
    Platinum Member
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    Default Re: Ripper tooth design - need your advice

    In my Case (pun intended) it'll probably work OK - for one, I'm gettin' too old to wanna get my excercise climbing on/off the tractor -

    For two, my old 580B weighs 12,500 lbs with the hoe in place.

    For three, although I do have a few trees slated for firewood that are big enough to argue with 12,500 lbs, most are "junk" trees (lot of pesky hawthornes) planted complete with fertilizer by birds - so far, the only one of the hawthornes that made "me and my ho" work at it was well-entrenched and about 12" across at the butt.

    I had similar problems to the ones you'd mentioned near the beginning of this thread, mainly because all I had at that time was the 24" bucket on the Case. Spent quite a bit of "quality time" on that "thorne in my side" The site looked like a bomb crater til I found some loose dirt to "make it all better".

    I do have a battery "sawzall" and a couple of REALLY agressive blades that work well on dry or green wood, so that's always an option... Steve

  7. #17
    Super Star Member IslandTractor's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ripper tooth design - need your advice

    Quote Originally Posted by BukitCase View Post
    In my Case (pun intended) it'll probably work OK - for one, I'm gettin' too old to wanna get my excercise climbing on/off the tractor -

    For two, my old 580B weighs 12,500 lbs with the hoe in place.

    For three, although I do have a few trees slated for firewood that are big enough to argue with 12,500 lbs, most are "junk" trees (lot of pesky hawthornes) planted complete with fertilizer by birds - so far, the only one of the hawthornes that made "me and my ho" work at it was well-entrenched and about 12" across at the butt.

    I had similar problems to the ones you'd mentioned near the beginning of this thread, mainly because all I had at that time was the 24" bucket on the Case. Spent quite a bit of "quality time" on that "thorne in my side" The site looked like a bomb crater til I found some loose dirt to "make it all better".

    I do have a battery "sawzall" and a couple of REALLY agressive blades that work well on dry or green wood, so that's always an option... Steve
    Yes, I don't think someone with a multi ton excavator or even full sized TLB would likely need to dismount for any reason in clearing trash tree stumps or even big trees. My Woods BH90x mounted on a ?6000-7000 TLB does pretty well with roots of trees less than 10-12 inches. I have however a few big old oaks that were cut down and trying to dig out those stumps has been a bear even with my ripper.

    What I really need is a hydraulically extendable Sawzall mounted in parallel with the ripper so I can just operate a different joystick to do the saw work without moving my fat arse off the seat.

  8. #18
    Platinum Member
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    Default Re: Ripper tooth design - need your advice

    "What I really need is a hydraulically extendable Sawzall mounted in parallel with the ripper so I can just operate a different joystick to do the saw work without moving my fat arse off the seat."

    Exactly - now you know why I'm a firm believer in the old saying, "Lazy people make the best inventors"...

    You'll understand more when I finally get around to posting a thread on my last two, and NEXT two, projects that will all work in tandem ... Steve

  9. #19
    Bronze Member bluehog's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ripper tooth design - need your advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Arc weld View Post
    Series 23 teeth with the rubber mount pins in the side would be good for a ripper. The pointed teeth won't last as long as the straight ones. If your backhoe has any power at all it will rip out roots. You could put a double bevel on the shank for cutting roots but the tip will still wear the most and it's nice to be able to replace it easily in a couple minutes. Any heavy equipment or industrial supply that has ground engaging tools will have teeth and adapters.
    I went to HEM (Heavy Equipment Machinery, Inc.) North Phoenix, AZ 623-879-6608. I took your advice and p/u the 23 series adapter (230010), flat tooth (MH23L), tiger tooth (MH23V) and 4 flex pins (TF23P) for $47+tax. Below are a few pics for those (as myself prior) who did not know for sure what was what. One thing on the "tooth" there are several grades... make sure you get the higher grade material (made in Spain) only a few $ difference.

    -series_23-2-jpg
    Adapter, teeth & pin (top & side view)

    -series_23-jpg
    Tooth on adapter
    "Mr.B" 2001 TC35D 16LA loader, Woods BH9000 BH with Bro-Tek thumb , Goossen CS-1PTO chipper/shredder, Land Pride PD-15 post hole digger

  10. #20
    Bronze Member bluehog's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ripper tooth design - need your advice

    Now it's time to get your opinion of this design, although I want this to be versatile ( stump removal, rock removal & trenching) the long term main use will be trenching within soil that is very compacted clay with many rounded rocks in the 6"-18" size.

    One thing for sure... it would be much easier to design without the removable tip. The interior teeth of the shank will need a knife edge added... I couldn't figure out how to do it in the software I was using.

    -ripper2-jpg -ripper2-2-jpg -ripper2-3-jpg -ripper2-4-jpg -ripper2-5-jpg -ripper2-6-jpg -ripper2-7-jpg
    "Mr.B" 2001 TC35D 16LA loader, Woods BH9000 BH with Bro-Tek thumb , Goossen CS-1PTO chipper/shredder, Land Pride PD-15 post hole digger

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