Backhoe Ripper tooth design - need your advice

[Coyote machine]

The end tooth is a replaceable tip. I will be mostly dealing with trenching in clay bases soil with a large amount of volcanic rounded rock. So I figured the solid tooth that you and Island Tractor have would get worn and damaged... so a replaceable tooth seemed logical... to me at least. I know that Island Tractor is not fond of it either. I am a bit worried about the weld of that item to shank as all the force will be of those welds.

In post #19 on page 2 I showed a few pics of the adapter and the replaceable tooth

IT and I are both in New England ~ AKA Rock land! There is hardly anywhere that has more rocks left over from glaciers ripping through the land than here. If you think you'll break off a 1/2" piece of steel in clay and volcanic ash formed softballs I'd be the first to admit surprise. I think you would be better off just having the end of the ripper tooth one integral piece. You could always weld on a replaceable tooth later if you started to experience premature wear..... Remember KISS principle; keep it simple stupid. IT has more use on his ripper, maybe he can comment on longevity of the end tooth?

 

[IslandTractor]

IT and I are both in New England ~ AKA Rock land! There is hardly anywhere that has more rocks left over from glaciers ripping through the land than here. If you think you'll break off a 1/2" piece of steel in clay and volcanic ash formed softballs I'd be the first to admit surprise. I think you would be better off just having the end of the ripper tooth one integral piece. You could always weld on a replaceable tooth later if you started to experience premature wear..... Remember KISS principle; keep it simple stupid. IT has more use on his ripper, maybe he can comment on longevity of the end tooth?

My ripper has been used quite a lot and I use it both for roots and to dig out rocks. After three seasons of use, the paint is gone but you'd need a sensitive micrometer to detect any metal loss from anywhere on the blade. I've probably lost more due to rust than wear. If that ever does happen I can weld a bit more steel onto the tip. 15 minute welding job.

My concern about the replaceable tip, and it is not a big concern, is that it is wider than the pointy tip on my ripper. There are times when I use the tip to tear up a rotten stump and it is nice to be able to put all the pressure into s single point rather than a 1 inch blade tip. Probably not critical. I just don't see the advantage for a non commercial implement and think it would be much simpler to just use a single piece ripper with a couple of supporting pieces on each side just as MIE did mine.

 

[Coyote machine]

Agreed. 2nd what IT said above.

 

[bluehog]

Alright, alright, alright! :ashamed:
You guys have convinced me to drop the replaceable tip design. I will redraw and post my final design. I hope to order the material tomorrow!

 

[MichiganIron]

Immitaion is the finest form of flattery !!!

 

[bluehog]

Immitaion is the finest form of flattery !!!

You are so right! I originally asked you guys last year about a replaceable tip and you stated it was not available. I then I procrastinate too long and decide to make my own with the replaceable tip (that I felt was SO important!) Now I scrap the tip idea thanks to sensible advice from your satisfied customers ( IslandTractor & Coyote machine) and I find myself with what I could have just got direct from you! But now my timeframe (3 weeks) does not allow me to have you build for me... MY BAD! :duh:

But this is good practice for me to fab something since I have access to all the equipment. It also has allowed me to use SketchUp 3D modeling software (free version) and get to understand that as well.

 

[bluehog]

SCRAPPED THE REPLACEABLE TIP IDEA! Here is the latest, refined, solid tipped version

I changed the teeth to be raised from the interior of shank profile rather than sunk into it. This gives it a slightly thicker mid section. I still plan on putting a cutting/knife edge at least on the first 3-4 teeth and the tip as well.

 

[IslandTractor]

SCRAPPED THE REPLACEABLE TIP IDEA! Here is the latest, refined, solid tipped version

I changed the teeth to be raised from the interior of shank profile rather than sunk into it. This gives it a slightly thicker mid section. I still plan on putting a cutting/knife edge at least on the first 3-4 teeth and the tip as well.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337482"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337483"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337484"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337485"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337486"/>

That's pretty much the MIE design which I happen to think is the simplest and best. I do wonder about your 1" main blade. I thought it wasn't quite that thick but could be wrong. I would have to defer to Coyote as I am not near mine.

 

[Coyote machine]

That's pretty much the MIE design which I happen to think is the simplest and best. I do wonder about your 1" main blade. I thought it wasn't quite that thick but could be wrong. I would have to defer to Coyote as I am not near mine.

Main blade is: 1/2" thick on my MIE designed ripper(claw) tooth. That's what's needed. If you want to double that dimension that's your choice, overkill for sure, but nonetheless your decision.
Time you got that we are here to assist you. :confused3: We know what is best, now go to your room!:laughing: No desert for you.:laughing:

 

[bluehog]

The main shank is 1" with 1/2" tooth reinforcement at the tip and constructed with A36 steel with a quench hardened beveled cutting edge. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-added-ripper-my-woods-bh90x-ripper-00006.jpg

Now you got me confused guys... Island Tractor on post #6 stated 1" thick with 1/2" sides on tips. Coyote machine you have 1/2" thick with 1/2" sides on tip? Is 3/4" a compromise?:bawling: