That's a lotta green! Very nice! :thumbsup:
Best implement for snow removal
- Thread starter El Wood
- Start date
That's a lotta green! Very nice! :thumbsup:
I use an 8' old unknown brand truck plow mounted to the front of my 1070. I use the loader hydraulics for up/down and angle. Yes, you need downforce for ice. Works like a charm. I do my own 700' drive in top gear in 1 pass, down and back. When I get inspired, I do the whole county road. Keeping your speed up makes the snow fly away from the blade. Otherwise it just exits the edge.
I can put it on in 20 minutes and take it off in 5 minutes or less. Good idea to make the driveway edge markers inward about a foot. Then the gravel stays within the roadway. I use the plow to push the gravel around in the spring, too. I'm not a fan of loader plows because of the poor steering control at high speed and high plow angles. Yeah, it can be done, but....
Works for me...
I can put it on in 20 minutes and take it off in 5 minutes or less. Good idea to make the driveway edge markers inward about a foot. Then the gravel stays within the roadway. I use the plow to push the gravel around in the spring, too. I'm not a fan of loader plows because of the poor steering control at high speed and high plow angles. Yeah, it can be done, but....
Works for me...
That is one of the reasons I don't like them. I think they should float at the quick attach and not rely on the loader for float.
Piston
Elite Member
:drool:
need.....more....pics
Tell more about the blower? Is it hydraulic? How big is it? Do you snowblow parking lots or roads?
I'm incredibly envious of that setup :thumbsup:
Creamer
Elite Member
Living in NE Indiana we get a few heavy snows every year. I use my 1710 4WD with turf tires with an FEL and a 6' rear blade. No weighting or chains. I do almost all of it with the rear blade. Gravel drive about a 1/4 mile long. Since I do not have a lot of traction I have to use momentum. I plow in road gear most of the time but sometimes I lose traction when i go up a small hill. Doing a full cleanout between my house and barn and in front of my garage along with the driveway and street clean-out at the end is rarely over an hour after a heavy snow and often much less.
The trick to not removing your gravel is to have your driveway smooth before the snow hits so you can drive it without the blade bouncing and then build up a little hard pack in the tracks on the driveway to let the blade ride on. i have very little clean-up in the spring.
On top of that it is fun plowing at that speed and if there is a little ice on the asphalt at the end of the drive i just hit a brake and and the front wheel becomes the center of the donut so I can turn in well under 5 seconds and be back plowing - of course i do this for the fun and not the speed sometimes I have to make a couple of extra turns!
The trick to not removing your gravel is to have your driveway smooth before the snow hits so you can drive it without the blade bouncing and then build up a little hard pack in the tracks on the driveway to let the blade ride on. i have very little clean-up in the spring.
On top of that it is fun plowing at that speed and if there is a little ice on the asphalt at the end of the drive i just hit a brake and and the front wheel becomes the center of the donut so I can turn in well under 5 seconds and be back plowing - of course i do this for the fun and not the speed sometimes I have to make a couple of extra turns!
Deerherd
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2012
- Messages
- 1,064
- Location
- Upstate, NY
- Tractor
- LS P7030 CPS, 2016 Bobcat E42, Ferris IS3100z w/37 HP Kawasaki
If you want to actually plow snow versus push it, the first requirement is to purchase a blade with a correctly designed mold board. What I mean by that is a blade that rolls the snow as opposed to relying on speed to throw it. With a properly designed blade you won't lose steering control because anything over a brisk walking speed, the snow is rolling off the edge. As your speed increases, the snow is actually thrown up and slightly forward towards the side, as opposed to collecting in front of the blade, which causes steering control and traction issues.
:drool:
need.....more....pics
Tell more about the blower? Is it hydraulic? How big is it? Do you snowblow parking lots or roads?
I'm incredibly envious of that setup :thumbsup:
It is a rear mount Frontier SB1308 pto drive with hydro chute controls and hydro drum rotation. mounted on a Laforge GreenLink St4.2 front hitch with 1000 rpm pto. 44in high, 98in wide, dual auger, 31.5 in 5 blade impeller, 2157 lbs. It looks like it sticks out in front a lot but it is closer than it looks in the pictures.
John Deere 6430 snowblower - YouTube
nybirdman
Super Member
Mine does float on the QA and not the FEL float.All depends how you build it.
GPintheMitten
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2009
- Messages
- 3,336
- Location
- Flushing, Michigan
- Tractor
- Kubota B2620 with BH65 backhoe, Ford 2N
I assume you have a loader. I would get a back blade abd try that this year. You will use it for other purposes so it is not a risk. You may need either chains or loaded rears or both. But you might not need either. Just be prepared for it if you end up sitting and spinning.
Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 7,660
- Location
- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
What do you do that you need such monstrous machines?:drool: Give me one!:laughing: Either one.:confused3:
Seriously, why TWO 6430's?!:confused2::shocked: They're too clean- how is that possible?