Hyd. top link ?

[NIXON]

How do I figure the size of the hydraulic top link actuator I need ? My guess is: Crank it in to it's shortest point , then out to it's longest ,then order the ram that fits those dimensions ?
Right ? Also the tractor is plumbed for the actuator already .
But what else do I need to finish the job ? Thanks , John

 

[frank_f15]

why not just ask your dealer? am sure he can give u the right ans. AND get it for u. safest way!

 

[OkieG]

John,
I have recently gone through the same procedure you are asking about. My thread is <font color="blue">here</font>. Seems to me you are going about it the right way. Use your OEM Top Link as a guide as far as retracted and extended length goes.

If you are lucky enough to find a ready made Top Link cylinder with the dimentions you're looking for, then you've got it knocked. I wasn't so lucky. Had to weld Cat 1 swivels on the ends of a plain cylinder (Prince). I was afraid I might ruin the cylinder from welding heat, but it turned out to be not as hard a job as I had feared.

So far I am pleased with the additional adjustment capability of an hydraulic Top Link. I used to adjust my manual TL once a year or so. With the hyd. replacement, the TL is adjusted as much as or more than the lift arms of the 3PH. The lift arms and hyd. Top Link work together to adjust your impliment just the way you want it. The added flexibility is nice.

OkieG

 

[John_Mc]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How do I figure the size of the hydraulic top link actuator I need ? My guess is: Crank it in to it's shortest point , then out to it's longest ,then order the ram that fits those dimensions ? )</font>

That's a good way to go, if you are lucky enough to find one that matches exactly. I had to buy one that was a bit long, in order to get the 8" range of motion I wanted, then cut it down a bit to get the lengths right (it came with a bracket welded to one end of the cylinder... I basically had the bracket cut off, and the swivel socket welded back on to the base of the cylinder.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Also the tractor is plumbed for the actuator already .
But what else do I need to finish the job ?)</font>

The cylinder itself, with appropriate ends for 3 point attachment. Hydraulic hoses and fittings. You may perhaps also want flow restrictors in the lines to slow the motion down to something manageable. I don't have them and wish I did... particularly on my sidelink. I have gotten used to it, however.

John Mc

 

[Mosey]

Here's a link to my thread, which has links to other threads with lots of info on this subject. Your dealer may not be able to help near as much as TBN (from my experience in the last 3 years, TBN has been much more helpful than the dealer!).

Top and Tilt project is now complete

 

[NIXON]

Thanks guys for the info and links !!! It never occured to me to ask my dealer ! DOH ! I guess It's just that every bit of info that I've gotten here has always been so much help . John

 

[Rowski]

I got a HTL from CCI. Works very well, has the double pilot valves.

If you haven't try the this link ...Hydraulic toplink questions

 

[NIXON]

Rowski , Thanks ! I was looking for that ! John