Suggestions for blade depth on Land Pride GS1548 grader scraper?

[mikesen]

I just got a Land Pride GS1548 to maintain my gravel driveway, and I could use some advice on setting the depth for the front and rear blades since they can be set independently. The driveway is not in real bad shape, there are no potholes or deep ruts on either side of the center, but there are a lot of weeds and grass that keep growing back that I want to get rid of.

Since there are no potholes, I wasn't going to use the scarifiers, so I was thinking of starting with the front blade set to 1/4 inch below the skids, and if that doesn't do what I want then drop it down further. I'm unsure what to do with the back blade - is it best to set it at the same depth as the front, or should I set it even with the skids so it smooths the gravel scraped up by the front blade?

 

[Gordon Gould]

I would set both the front and rear blades the same but I don't think it is critical that you do that it just makes sense. When you use it you will see that the second blade's cutting edge does not do the smoothing, as you say, even if it is even with the bottom of the skids. The smooth flat surface is gained by an even layer of material, all the way across the blade, flowing up and over the the blade. So you want the second blade full of material. Having the second blade the same depth as the front will give it a chance to do a better job collecting up material for a full blade all the way across. When you set the top link make sure you set it long enough to hold the back end down when you are moving forward. The grader will try to roll forward lifting the back, Set the top link so it holds the rear down. (unless you what all the weight on the front blade which is sometime usefull for the first pass on a really hard packed road)
You will probably have to experiment to find the best blade depth for your sod. 1/4" may be light. Mine is fixed at 3/4" and cuts sod well but I can not try any othe blade depth. After you cut off the sod it will look a mess with it all laying there on the road. If you wait a while untill it all dries up it wiill slowly disappear or you can then go over the road again to make it look good faster.
You are not taking out the sod roots with a shallow cut so it will grow back. But it is easy to dress the road up again.

 

[jenkinsph]

Having the blades set below the skids is better for bringing the gravel to the surface from my experience. You can set the blades flush with the skids and still load the landplane with material quickly on a gravel driveway. For finish grading of most materials such as engineered fill for a slab setting the blades flush is ideal. I agree with setting both blades the same as Gordon mentions.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Steve, how would you set the blades to cut the sod as the OP wants to do ? Will your flush blades cut the sod in an already flat driveway like his w/o using scarifiers ? I am thinking it would not but could be very wrong.

 

[murphy1244]

I set my front blade down 1/2 inch the back blade flush and use the hooks for pulling weeds and grass. IMO

 

[azkubotaguy]

I have been thinking about buying a GS1572, how do you guys like these Land Pride Grading Scrapers?

 

[oosik]

I have a Land Pride GS2584 and have found it to be an exceedingly tough implement. I used it on my mile long gravel driveway - first with the scarifiers half way down and finally with scarifiers up and both blades about one inch below the side skids. It took several passes but now the driveway is back to the way it was 30+ years ago. Its called habitual neglect on my part. I finally realized the rear blade just wasn't doing the job that needed to be done.

I also have used the GS to create brand new trails right out thru the pucker weeds. Scarifiers down, both blades one inch below the skids and away I go. Lots of dust, clumps of grass flying everywhere along with sage brush and about 2-3 passes later I have a smooth trail around 7 feet wide. The first pass on a new trail does require frequent "jogs" off the trail to unload the grass clumps that build up within the GS. Subsequent passes require very infrequent jogs to unload any buildup.

Like previously mentioned - it does not seem to make a lot of difference how deep/shallow the blades are set - its more important to get a smooth flow of dirt or gravel across the full width of both blades. Mine came with both blades approximately one inch below the skids and I've never changed that setting.

 

[azkubotaguy]

My local dealer wants $ 1575.00 for the GS1572, I have seen other dealers on tractorhouse listing them for $ 1250.00, wonder if these guys could ship cheaper than I can get one here?

http://www.tractorhouse.com/list/list.aspx?ETID=1&Manu=LAND+PRIDE&Mdltxt=GS1572&mdlx=exact

 

[Gordon Gould]

My local dealer wants $ 1575.00 for the GS1572, I have seen other dealers on tractorhouse listing them for $ 1250.00, wonder if these guys could ship cheaper than I can get one here?

http://www.tractorhouse.com/list/list.aspx?ETID=1&Manu=LAND+PRIDE&Mdltxt=GS1572&mdlx=exact

Just a note:
Be aware there are too versions. The one w/o rippers ( scarifiers ) is cheaper. Maybe that is the difference you see. I believe you have to specify scarifiers as I think they are an option.

 

[Gordon Gould]

If you look around this site it is pretty universal that people like LPGS's for road maintenence ( and other things too )

Mikesen,
Here is some sod I removed just so you can see. BTW - Welcome to TBN

Starting out it looked like this



Here is what happens. My tailgate collects the sod. If I didn't have the tailgate the sod would just pass thru with the gravel.







Finished job