Chisel plow on sub-compact tractor.

[Tractor Seabee]

There is as lot of info on the internet. Below is one link. Consensus among makes seems to be 10 HP per shank and excellent tractor traction. Puts you at two shanks for your SCUT. I have a B i L that is a professional farmer in Oregon. When he saw my BX25 his first reaction was; "are you planning to plow with that?" He said do not waste your money on a plow, never work. Of course he has never plowed with less than 100 -200 HP. That would be a mold board plow he was referring to. He said he has never plowed where he gardens, rototiller only. His method is to till just before planting, till after harvest and plant clover, then till after last frost to turn in the clover, till if weeds come before ready to plant one more time.

Ron

Chisel Plow

 

[52wej]

A slightly different option would be to purchase a small single shank subsoiler from TSC or other farm supply outlets that have them. I had a 20 hp JD CUT that I used some years ago to pull it when first opening up a new garden plot. Often what happens is the subsoiler will simply stop the tractor if a large rock is hung. As some one said you will need to make multiple passes, going deeper with each pass, and keep your ground speed slow until you reach the desired depth. I can now pull the subsoiler at 18" with my 30 hp CUT and the way the soil is broken up makes a tremendous difference in the garden's soil quality. Still only one shank is used. But when everything is working properly you will see the soil rise and drop for a distance of 18" on either side of the unit. This completely fractures the compacted layers and allows for excellent moisture penetration and root growth. And I have a very hard red clay soil. Willie Jones

 

[RalphVa]

I pulled this with my 4010 with shanks totally buried.

Ralph

 

[pfranco81]

I pulled this with my 4010 with shanks totally buried.

There we go Ralph, that's what I'm talking about!

 

[buickanddeere]

A 4010 was pulling in hard clay would be scratching for traction.

I have a JD 22B V-Ripper with the 1-1/4" HD shank using a 10" wide LaserRip point. In dry clay it's all a 55HP 2WD will pull if sunk 24" . It will raise two high ridges with an open trench if the top link is shortened up too much. Lets the rain water soak in but makes for a place to drop front wheels into even after moldboard ploughing and cultivating. Better to lengthen the top link some and not have an open trench.
To keep from snapping the shearbolt when cutting tree roots along the edge of the forest/woods/bush. Just slow down to the lower gears. It does bring everything to a sudden halt if hooked on a large stone or root.
Rain water no longer sits ponded on the fields and drowns the crops. The farm had been no-till and limited till for 30+ years and was compacted. In dry weather strips of greener and higher crops can be seen where ripped.

 

[jenkinsph]

The 22B is a good model imo, one things for sure it is more than a scut want's though.

 

[flusher]

I used a middle buster on my 2005 Kubota B7510HST (21 hp engine, 17 hp pto, 4WD) followed by my Yanmar RS1200 rototiller (48" wide) when I put in the lawns at my new place a few years ago. Worked fine in the Spring when the soil is fairly damp. If I tried this in September after 4 months of 100 degree+ temperatures, the soil probably would have been too hard to plow with that little tractor.

Good luck.