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  1. #1
    Gold Member
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    Feb 2011
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    Default 3 Point Log Skidder

    After going through the TBN search engine, looking at images on-line, then looking into my wallet, I decided to make a 3 point log-skidder for my light forestry operations. I usually skid 12' Big Leaf Maple and oak. On occasion, I skid 16' - 20' fir logs. I have 15 years before my wood-lot is ready for wide-scale harvest again; by then, I will have some type of 3 point winch, perhaps a Farmi.

    I'm pulling with the draw-bar and lifting with the arm-spacer bar now and it works pretty well on the "flats" and "straights".

    I would like the operator's hands farther-away from the logs when detaching the chokers, a little more play at the front end of the logs, and I also want to use the upper link to do something too (not just sit there while the draw-bar & lifting arms do all the work).

    Thanks to everyone on TBN for the previous posts here is what I came-up with; 2" square tubes properly welded. I don't have any measurements yet; still in the take-off phase.

    Attachment 354965

    I would appreciate any words of wisdom; particularly on the nomenclatures of the types and thickness of metal I should be shopping for.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Gold Member lutt's Avatar
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    Dec 2010
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    Pocahontas, Arkansas
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    Kubota ZG 22, John Deere 4200 4wd/ 420 loader, 4 wd,08 polaris 700 ranger crew

    Default

    I'm gonna watch this, I've been thinking about one also! LUTT

  3. #3
    New Member 99dakota4by4's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
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    Stafford, VA
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    Satoh 470D Buck Mitsubishi MT372D

    Default Re: 3 Point Log Skidder

    I have ~45 acres (mixed hardwoods) that will eventually need thinned. Most of mine is NOT flat... Would be interested to see your final plan.

  4. #4
    Member
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    Dec 2013
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    25
    Location
    Guelph Ontario
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    Kubota L39

    Default Re: 3 Point Log Skidder

    I am also interested to see the final plans 13 acres not flat. My only comment would be to add some sort of protective plate.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Gordon Gould's Avatar
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    Apr 2007
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    NorthEastern, VT
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    Kubota L3010DT, Dresser TD7G Dozer

    Default Re: 3 Point Log Skidder

    Your design pictorial looks rugged. I see square tube and flat bar stock the way you have it drawn. You don't show demensions but I am thinking the way you have the lift point for your chains above the top link you must have some fat logs to pick up. I would be concerned with the chain connection point that high up if your logs are heavy. That is unless you know that it will be OK from previous experience. You would be better off (safer) if you could make it lower. ie between the top link and lift arms.

    Here is a different type of design that you can get a high lift yet all the weight on the tractor is kept low, on the draw bar and lift arms. Nothing on the top link as it is unused. There is very little force to tip the tractor back with this hitch compared to one that employs the top link. This guy lifted some heavy stuff as you can see.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -loghitch-jpg  
    "If you're not making any mistakes then you're not doing anything"

    L3010DT, Farmi JL290 Winch, ATI Grapple, BearCat 5" Chipper, 6' Rear Blade,
    7' Sickle Bar, 5' Land Plane Grading Scraper, Dresser TD7G Dozer

  6. #6
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    298

    Default Re: 3 Point Log Skidder

    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon Gould View Post
    Your design pictorial looks rugged. I see square tube and flat bar stock the way you have it drawn. You don't show demensions but I am thinking the way you have the lift point for your chains above the top link you must have some fat logs to pick up. I would be concerned with the chain connection point that high up if your logs are heavy. That is unless you know that it will be OK from previous experience. You would be better off (safer) if you could make it lower. ie between the top link and lift arms.


    Here is a different type of design that you can get a high lift yet all the weight on the tractor is kept low, on the draw bar and lift arms. Nothing on the top link as it is unused. There is very little force to tip the tractor back with this hitch compared to one that employs the top link. This guy lifted some heavy stuff as you can see.
    Good info; maybe I'm not done designing my log-skidder yet.......

    A vertical pivot-point for the boom at the draw-bar
    (+) A floating fulcrum for the boom at the spacer-bar
    (=) A dynamic (if not exponential) lift value; genius!

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Marveltone's Avatar
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    Jun 2010
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    Somewhere north of Roseau, MN
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    Fordson Major Diesel, McCormick Deering W4, Ford 1510, John Deere L111

    Default Re: 3 Point Log Skidder

    Interesting thread. I can't wait to see what you end up building. For what it's worth, I've been wanting to buy or make a skidder, but time and money seem to have other priorities. Meanwhile, I use my box blade as a skidder. A short chain loops around the front end of the log and hooks to the top of the blade, just long enough to keep the front of the log snug against the rear of the blade. Lifting the blade raises the front of the log, just like any other skidder. The blade is lifted just enough to keep the leading edge of the log from digging into anything, while the box blade itself sticks out back far enough (my tractor has rather long lift arms) to make an effective anti-flip device. I have been very pleased with this set-up, as it's yet another use for something I already have.

    Joe
    Fordson Major Diesel: Case 3-bottom Trip Plow, Case 12' Trip Field Cultivator, Kewanee 130 Disc, John Deere 1209 Mower Conditioner, John Deere 594LW Side Delivery Rake, New Holland Hayliner 273 Baler, 18' Spike-Tooth Harrow
    Ford 1510: Du-Al 105 Loader, "The Thumb" Grapple, Bush Hog RBC60 Rear Blade, Woods HC54 Rotary Cutter, Tarter 5' Heavy-Duty Hinge Back Box Blade, Buhler Farm King Y600 Snowblower

  8. #8
    Elite Member milkman's Avatar
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    Ky
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    BX2200, BCS 735

    Default Re: 3 Point Log Skidder

    Neat idea and looks like a stout design. A couple of suggestions, lower the chain lift point to about or just below the top link attachment point, that's used to lift the front of the log and make the center of gravity a little lower. Then make provisions to hook a chain from the log to the drawbar height to pull the log. Without the bottom hookup to pull the log, all the weight and the pulling force is on the top link attachment of the tractor. There was once a picture on here showing that point on the tractor ripped off, not a pretty sight.
    Hate is like drinking poison, hoping your enemy will die. unknown author

  9. #9
    Gold Member
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    Nov 2005
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    Colebrook, N.H.
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    Kubota L3830HST

    Default Re: 3 Point Log Skidder

    Quote Originally Posted by Marveltone View Post
    Interesting thread. I can't wait to see what you end up building. For what it's worth, I've been wanting to buy or make a skidder, but time and money seem to have other priorities. Meanwhile, I use my box blade as a skidder. A short chain loops around the front end of the log and hooks to the top of the blade, just long enough to keep the front of the log snug against the rear of the blade. Lifting the blade raises the front of the log, just like any other skidder. The blade is lifted just enough to keep the leading edge of the log from digging into anything, while the box blade itself sticks out back far enough (my tractor has rather long lift arms) to make an effective anti-flip device. I have been very pleased with this set-up, as it's yet another use for something I already have.

    Joe

    Marveltone, I like your idea of using the boxblade for skidding logs, for a lot of reasons. It keeps the load low, makes a good backstop if the log pushes against you, and if it doesn't eliminate a wheelie if the load gets hung up, it should sure help to keep the front end from coming up too far.
    Another good use for the boxblade.
    -Jim

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Gordon Gould's Avatar
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    NorthEastern, VT
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    Kubota L3010DT, Dresser TD7G Dozer

    Default Re: 3 Point Log Skidder

    Quote Originally Posted by Traskblacktail View Post
    Good info; maybe I'm not done designing my log-skidder yet.......

    A vertical pivot-point for the boom at the draw-bar
    (+) A floating fulcrum for the boom at the spacer-bar
    (=) A dynamic (if not exponential) lift value; genius!
    You don't get all that for free of course - there is always a catch. I can see you understand levers so maybe you already see it. The draw bar pivot is the fulcrum. The liftarms provide the lift with a shorter lever arm than the log. So the max log weight will be less than what you could pick at the end of the lift arms. Max log weight depends on your geometry. You give up weight for height. Your tractor is about 2650 lbs at the lift arms ( I think ) so even at 2:1 you got 1325 lbs available for the butt end of the log.

    You don't have that trade off with your initial design.

    EDIT; For reference a 16 foot green red oak that is 24" in diameter average weighs 3200 lbs. 18" dia is 1800 lbs.
    "If you're not making any mistakes then you're not doing anything"

    L3010DT, Farmi JL290 Winch, ATI Grapple, BearCat 5" Chipper, 6' Rear Blade,
    7' Sickle Bar, 5' Land Plane Grading Scraper, Dresser TD7G Dozer

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