Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points

   / Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points #1  

YardBikeBob

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
210
Location
Missouri Ozarks, Booger County
Tractor
LS R4041H
I am having a heck of a time keeping my 3 point arms out of the tire. They are either getting wacked by the knobs on the tires are rubbing hard on the sidewalls. Level ground, not much of a problem but my property has so little of it! Now I'm trying to push the implement over as far as I can and then tighten the link on the far side (which is a bit of a feat). Then doing it again on the other side. I'm still rubbing on side slopes.

Stabilizer%20Link.jpg


I've tried to look at other stabilizer links on the 'net but can't tell if mine is inferior to other designs. I do see chains and turnbuckles but they're on smaller tractors. There is a lot of flex/slop in my stock links on LS R4041H. Is there an aftermarket design that is better and compatible? Is there some value of having a lot of slop/movement?

3%20Point%20Connection.jpg


I thought I'd run the arms to the inside of the BB but the Cat 1 pins aren't long enough. OTOH, I thought the wider the stance on the 3 Point, the better stability of the implement.

Any ideas or examples of better ways appreciated.

Bob
 
   / Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points #2  
Does your drawbar have small holes in it? You could attach small chains from the drawbar to the sway links to help it out a bit.
 
   / Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points #3  
Top picture you posted. See the kink in the inside arm (we'll call it the male side) where it attaches to to the tractor? You need to straighten that out. Pull the pin, straighten that joint and I bet you can get a whole nother hole of tightness in the linkage. Then when setting the other side, pull the implement to you and do teh same thing. You have to get all the slack out of the stabilizers. Many times I have to go through this procesure twice to find the right holes to get things centered of offset depending on my needs. A second person can help this process along as well.

I know telescoping stabilizers are quick, but sometimes I wonder if I wouldn't like a tunebuckle style better.
 
   / Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points #4  
Not to get too far off subject but could you set your tires wider?
 
   / Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points #5  
Is you implement a cat 1 or 2? It looks like it is with the arms in the cat 2 space. Just the way it looks from my angle.

Ok no it isn't. Put the bolt on style cat one lower link pins on the inside and get them closer to gather. It really looks more like the spacing is for a cat two hydraulics. What is the spacing between them now.
 
   / Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points #6  
Straighten the stabilizer mounting brackets at each end, and on each side, then set your rear wheels to a wider stance. They look awfully narrow in the pic (which I know can be deceiving, but still....)
 
   / Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points #7  
Do you have a photo showing the entire tractor from the rear? It looks like the wheels are mounted inside, but not so much from the position of the fenders. Would be nice to see a little more.
 
   / Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Does your drawbar have small holes in it? You could attach small chains from the drawbar to the sway links to help it out a bit.

But then the 3 point couldn't lift if chained to the draw bar. So then I was thinking I could cross-chain the lower bars in an 'X' pattern -- but then that would cross the PTO axis. That would be a stupidity trap when using the RC.

Not to get too far off subject but could you set your tires wider?

Don't know how. The wheels are a solid disk so the rim can't be adjusted. Everything I know about wheel spacers I learned 40 years ago on a pretty cool VW beetle. 3 out of 5 studs held up well back then.

Bob
 
   / Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points #9  
Take your rear wheels off, turn them around, then swap them from side to side. Now the wheels are much wider, and the tread is still running the right direction.
 
   / Thoughts on Stabalizer Links and 3 Points #10  
Looking at your 2nd pic it shows the arms are as far out (wide) as they can go in the attachment. If you pull the pin on the arms in pic 1 and push the arm on the attachment to the inside (closer together) they shouldn't rub the tires.

I have the LS XR3037HC and my arms don't come close to the tires. My distance between the rear tires is 37" and 66" outside to outside. With my Cat 1 attachment on I have 5" between the tire and the lower arm. With the Cat 1 attachment on I measure 29" to the outer edges of the arms. If yours is wider you might have a Cat 2 attachment.
I don't think you can swap tires side to side but not sure. Spacers would work to move the tires out further.
 

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