Grapple Yet another grapple question, Specific to the Pacific NorthWet

   / Yet another grapple question, Specific to the Pacific NorthWet #1  

smitesmash

Silver Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2006
Messages
115
Location
Whidbey Island, Wa
Tractor
JD 650 (sold) Kubota L45
Im about to pull the trigger on getting a grapple for my L45 tractor.

I'm trying to decide between the L shaped grapple e.g.
Everything Attachments Wicked Root Grapple for Compact Tractors

or the root rake style e.g.
Everything Attachments Tractor Loader Root Rake Grapple

while the consensus seems to be that the L shaped ones are a bit more all purpose, my specific issue is that I am primarily getting this grapple in order to pull out many thousand pacific red Alder stumps.
All of the trees on my property are small ( less than 12" dbh) and alder is very shallowly rooted.

If I were to go with the L shaped ones, due to the mechanical (dis) advantage of the grapple, would I still be able to rip out the alder trees?
If I was pretty certain that the L shaped ones would work, I would go with one of those. else I should get the root rake style.

The first two attached pictures show the amount of normal brush we have here, notice the kid in the orange sweater in the foreground of the first picture
the third picture was taken in the winter, and after a day of using the chain saw to down more than 3/4 of the standing trees.
the last picture is my tractor carrying home some trees. these are about typical of the breed. notice how shallow the root system is on these trees. approximately 8-12" overall.
 

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   / Yet another grapple question, Specific to the Pacific NorthWet #2  
Smitesmash - I live about 25 miles due SW of Spokane. This means my property is about as different as can possibly be from yours. Anyhow, I got a Land Pride SGC 1560 grapple about a month ago. It is the root rake style. I have successfully used the grapple to rip out large chunks of small stands of ponderosa pine. This is the only experience I've had with a grapple.

I would tend to believe that the success of a particular style of grapple at doing what you are planning on doing is as much related to the competence of the operator as the style of grapple. I chose the root rake style because that's the only style I've seen used around this part of the country. I figure those folks know or have experience regarding grapple types that I have yet to learn.
 
   / Yet another grapple question, Specific to the Pacific NorthWet #3  
You'll be tickled pink with either style you get! Either one will do what you want. I would have no problem knocking down the trees and root raking with my L style grapple, but that being said, the general consensus is that the root rake style would be best if "raking roots" is your primary purpose.

If you don't have any reason to believe you would need the flat section of the L style grapple, then you won't miss it. I had specific reasons for going with my grapple as I use it for numerous different things, whereas it sounds like your going to be using it for something fairly specific.

Either one will work awesome.
 
   / Yet another grapple question, Specific to the Pacific NorthWet #5  
   / Yet another grapple question, Specific to the Pacific NorthWet #6  
How fast do need them gone? I have cleared my place from scratch, and I am about 80 miles south of you. Alder stumps bigger than 10+ I will hollow them out with the chain saw, and fill with dirt and plant flowers in them. They will rot to the ground within two years. All the smaller ones within a year, you can pop out with a maul. Pack the small ones to the burn pile, or wood stove, they burn VERY hot.
 
   / Yet another grapple question, Specific to the Pacific NorthWet #7  
What about renting each type for a day or so and seeing which works best for your application? Around here grapples rent for about $70/dy.

Tim
 
   / Yet another grapple question, Specific to the Pacific NorthWet
  • Thread Starter
#8  
How fast do need them gone? I have cleared my place from scratch, and I am about 80 miles south of you. Alder stumps bigger than 10+ I will hollow them out with the chain saw, and fill with dirt and plant flowers in them. They will rot to the ground within two years. All the smaller ones within a year, you can pop out with a maul. Pack the small ones to the burn pile, or wood stove, they burn VERY hot.

I've been doing this by hand for nearly 10 years; and mostly right now just fed up with how long it takes.
the rot factor works for me differently in different parts. I'm on 100% glacial till, so what type of soil varies every 50' or so. in sandy or boggy areas a 10" or so stump will rot out in about 2 or 3 years. in clay or tighter areas, it'll take a LOT longer.

what I really want to do is a pre-commertail thin, and then lightly boxblade the rest, so that you won't break a leg when stepping into a old stump hole or random mound.
 
   / Yet another grapple question, Specific to the Pacific NorthWet
  • Thread Starter
#9  
What about renting each type for a day or so and seeing which works best for your application? Around here grapples rent for about $70/dy.

Tim

Good idea. I've never seen one for rent around here, but its never occurred to me to ask either.
 
   / Yet another grapple question, Specific to the Pacific NorthWet #10  
I am down the road aways from you and have ripped out a few alders with my little BX25. Up to 4" I cut off 4' above the ground and push over and out with the FEL. As they get bigger they get harder as the root structure spreads and enlargers. I have dug out 12" ones with the BH. A 8" bucket cuts roots 4" dia pretty easy. A 12"er takes me about 3 hours from start to backfill. Your bigger tractor should push out larger ones than mine. I made an aggressive tooth bar for my FEL and it is now a super digger also a plus it digs into those trunks instead of sliding off. I always leave 4-5' on the stump for pushing leverage except the small oes those I push over the whole thing getting the bucket up to about 6'. My grapple for moving logs is a piece of chin and a binder. LOL

Ron

Ron
 
 
 
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