Concrete mixer (PTO)

[Tom_Veatch]

Hey Paul, You wouldn't have a make and model ID on that PTO mixer, would you? It sounds like it cures one of the major shortcomings mentioned in this thread.

 

[WVBill]

Here's the picture, Greg.

I had made a set of light duty "forks" out of 2 x 4's a couple of years ago following an idea someone else here on TBN posted. The vertical portion of the fork wedges up against an angle-iron lip I put on the top edge of the bucket. They're surprisingly strong and I've used them to move a pallet with a couple of concrete blocks on it (my loader capacity is only 550 lbs).

Anyway, being wood, they made a good and easy base to attach the cement mixer head to. They can't tilt out from the top because of the lip and I threw a chain and chain binder around the horizontal wooden cross member I attached to them and up around the back of the bucket to the top lip. This keeps the whole thing from sliding out at the bottom.

It worked quite well except that the length of the forks meant I had to dump the concrete from about 18". If I'd shortened the forks I could have laid the concrete down with much more accuracy.

By the way, the hose reel on the loader arm is there for when I put my sprayer tank in the FEL bucket and drive around the property to spray. It's just held on by a pair of "U" bolts so I take it off after spraying season.

 

[GregJ]

That looks like a great idea. I may be doing some concrete work this year with several small pads and something like that might work for me.

Thanks,
Greg

 

[rambler]

I will brush the snow off of it & let you know, Tom.

I have digital pics too, but give me a moment on that, I had a hard drive fry a couple weeks ago.... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

--->Paul

 

[polecat]

keep the pics coming will u guys please!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[mach]

DO all PTO mixers require a hydralic cylinder to dump? I have a 1750 ford compact tractor, but I don't have a front-end loader, so I have no external hydralic cylinders. I do have a couple of lines that run upfront, but nothing is attached to them. I was thinking the 3pt. lift would allow me to raise and dump the mixer, without needing any hydralic lift cylinders?
I need to pour about 110' driveway. I was planning on forming it into 10x10 squares, and pouring a section a weekend. Would i be better off buying an electric mixer barrel? I've seen one at northern that pours 3.5 cubic feet, per drop.
I just don't have $10,000 for the big trucks and crews to work it. What would you guys suggest???

thanks,
Mach

 

[bucmeister]

DO all PTO mixers require a hydralic cylinder to dump? I have a 1750 ford compact tractor, but I don't have a front-end loader, so I have no external hydralic cylinders. I do have a couple of lines that run upfront, but nothing is attached to them. I was thinking the 3pt. lift would allow me to raise and dump the mixer, without needing any hydralic lift cylinders?
I need to pour about 110' driveway. I was planning on forming it into 10x10 squares, and pouring a section a weekend. Would i be better off buying an electric mixer barrel? I've seen one at northern that pours 3.5 cubic feet, per drop.
I just don't have $10,000 for the big trucks and crews to work it. What would you guys suggest???

thanks,
Mach

$10,000, whew, how wide are you going to make the drive? Around here a truck load is about $800 @$100 per yard and a 4" thick 10' wide drive will get you about 8 running feet per yard so one truck should cover about 80', if you were making it 12' wide a yard should cover between 6 and 7 feet, so it should not take over 2 trucks worth of crete. Of course, maybe concrete is significantly more expensive in your locale.

I have put the figures to the paper before and came to the conclusion that on multi yard pours the only way it is cheaper to mix and pour on my own would be if I had a totally free source of sand & gravel. Way to much cost of my personal labor to try to pour multiple yards unless I was going to do it over a period measured in years as just a piddling job.

 

[bucmeister]

Oops, now I see you posted 10x10. So that answers that question, so if you go with 4" thick you will get roughly 8 feet per yard so 10x10 will be roughly 1.25 yards. Are you planning on using a bagged concrete mix or a self blended mix if you do it yourself? Forming up you will have to do either way, although doing it yourself would allow you to reuse the same forms many times over vs having to buy more forming material for the big pours.

All a personal call I guess, while I may not have all that much money I have even less spare time in my life so I have to pick my battles so to speak. Have not priced bags of cement to go with the sand and gravel for a self blended mix, but last time I did check it the cost was higher than I thought it would be. The companies buy in bulk which makes them competitive with the real cost of D-I-Y.

 

[mach]

actually, i may need to go wider than 10'. I have 3 teens, so our driveway stays full of cars. A 10' drive, doesn't give me room to get past all the other cars parked in the drive. Maybe i need to go 14' wide x 10' in length. I can buy an electric mixer for $300.00. 80lbs of packaged quikrete is $3.46 a bag. I need to pour at least 4" deep.
So, I'm not sure how many bags I would need to go 10' x 14' x 4" My chart says, I would need 2.27 cubic yards of concrete.
The Northern tools portable cement mixer I'm looking at, has a 3.5 cu. ft. capacity and a 1.77 cu. ft. mixing capacity. So now, how many mixer loads will be required per slab?
Yes, i should be able to reuse my forms. I'm trying to figure out, how much it will cost me to pour each 10x14x4" slab.
Now, my driveway is 110' long... So I would need to pour 11 of these slabs end to end.

Any idea's?
Thanks,
Mach

 

[DGS]

DO all PTO mixers require a hydralic cylinder to dump? I have a 1750 ford compact tractor, but I don't have a front-end loader, so I have no external hydralic cylinders. I do have a couple of lines that run upfront, but nothing is attached to them. I was thinking the 3pt. lift would allow me to raise and dump the mixer, without needing any hydralic lift cylinders?
I need to pour about 110' driveway. I was planning on forming it into 10x10 squares, and pouring a section a weekend. Would i be better off buying an electric mixer barrel? I've seen one at northern that pours 3.5 cubic feet, per drop.
I just don't have $10,000 for the big trucks and crews to work it. What would you guys suggest???

thanks,
Mach

Hello Mach
You need a mixer truck load(s) otherwise your gonna kill yourself doing 110' by hand.
Regards
DGS