???? about Sitrex finish cut mowers...

[kebo]

Need to replace the blades on my Sitrex finish cut mower and having trouble determining the size wrench needed to hold the spindle in place so you can loosen the nut on the bottom of the shaft. I know for a fact it is larger than 1 1/8", but smaller than 1 1/4". I'm guessing it's actually metric (made in Italy you know), but trying/hoping to match an SAE wrench to it. I looked at the manual online and it only shows the wrench, it doesn't mention what size is needed.

If anybody has one of these units can tell me what size wrench it takes, I would appreciate it. I'm sure that the same spindle is also used on their 4ft, 6ft, and maybe 7ft mowers as well. Thanks.

 

[madamos]

How about using an adjustable wrench, they fit US and Metric equally well if there is room. You never know when a 18" or even 24" will come in handy.

Paul

 

[leonz]

Measure from flat to flat and multiply this by 0.3937 to give
you the metric equivalant-and NO do not use and adjustable wrench
as that will garantee a trip to the hospital for stitches.


The Sitrex Houston Warehouse phone number is 1-713-928-7902
to find out the proper size

Purchase a shallow well metric impact socket so you can use long breaker bar
and not worry about having problems.

Gemplers makes a very handy mower blade holding tool that prevents the blades from spinning
while you are trying to take them off.

 

[Halftrack]

Use the 1 1/4" open end wrench on the shaft above the blade and 1 1/16" socket on a 3 or 4' breaker bar on the hex nut, preferrably a 6 point socket. Brace the open end wrench against the mower baffling, if it is longer than the blade, my wrench was, but I have 5 21" blades. It is normal threads, not reversed like some mowers. Bought mine used and the blades had never been off, so I needed the 4' breaker. The actual size of the spindle is probably 31 mm, but you will break your 1 1/4" open end wrench before you harm the spindle. If still not enough, slide a pipe over the breaker bar. Refraim from heating the nut as you will fry the grease out of the spindle. Instead cut the nut off with a nut splitter, dye grinder or a cutting blade in your angle grinder. Watch those knuckles and the nasty words sometimes heard coming from the shop and good luck.

 

[kebo]

Use the 1 1/4" open end wrench on the shaft above the blade and 1 1/16" socket on a 3 or 4' breaker bar on the hex nut, preferrably a 6 point socket. Brace the open end wrench against the mower baffling, if it is longer than the blade, my wrench was, but I have 5 21" blades. It is normal threads, not reversed like some mowers. Bought mine used and the blades had never been off, so I needed the 4' breaker. The actual size of the spindle is probably 31 mm, but you will break your 1 1/4" open end wrench before you harm the spindle. If still not enough, slide a pipe over the breaker bar. Refraim from heating the nut as you will fry the grease out of the spindle. Instead cut the nut off with a nut splitter, dye grinder or a cutting blade in your angle grinder. Watch those knuckles and the nasty words sometimes heard coming from the shop and good luck.

One thing I didn't mention earlier, but there is a not much space at all between the top of the blade, and the bottom of the "collar" that covers the spindle. I cannot get any of my adjustable's in there to even tell what size I need. I already have a 1 1/16" socket that will fit the nut on the spindle, I just need a wrench that will fit the flats on the spindle. I'll call the Sitrex warehouse tomorrow to see if they can tell me what size I need for the spindles. It is good to know that the nuts are right hand threads though. Thanks for all the other advice! :thumbsup:

 

[leonz]

Check with the local rental places to see if you can rent a
torque multiplier and you can 86 the idea of the cheater pipe
which has a tendency to collect broken jaws.

Buy the blade holder from Gemplers and the shallow metric impact socket for the job and
if you can rent a torque multiplier you are home free but if you have a GOOD Snap on or Mac
4 foot breaker bar you will be fine.

 

[chim]

I've been using impact wrenches and there's no need to hold the spindle. Got a cheap 1/2" air impact wrench almost 20 years ago and it still works fine. Picked up a DeWalt 1/2" 18V impact some years abck and that's even handier.

 

[kebo]

I called the number provided by Leonz and the receptionist forwarded me to someone who didn't answer their phone, so then she forwarded me to a parts counter guy. He didn't know right off hand what size wrench it took, but he offered to go measure a new spindle with some calipers and call me back. Ten minutes later he called back and said it was 30mm on the flats. So, now I have to get me a 30mm wrench that is skinny (thin) on the end, and I should be able to get these blades changed out this weekend.

Leon, I took a look at the blade holder from Gempler, honestly, I don't think it will help me any. The blades on this unit just have round holes to fit on the spindles. They are NOT keyed with the star pattern like some spindles are. I don't see where locking the blades down will help me? If the concern is the blade accidentally slipping and it catching my arm/hand with the sharp edge of the blade, then that shouldn't be an issue. The back edge of these blades is almost sharper than the cutting edge lol, that's how dull they are. Besides, I'll be wearing my heavy leather gloves when I try to loosen the nuts.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Hinomotoman]

Ditto.

Eugene

I've been using impact wrenches and there's no need to hold the spindle. Got a cheap 1/2" air impact wrench almost 20 years ago and it still works fine. Picked up a DeWalt 1/2" 18V impact some years abck and that's even handier.

 

[Coyote machine]

I think, as others have said, an impact socket on the nut and off they come. You'll pay through the nose for a 'thin' open end 30mm combo wrench, and probably don't really need it to do the job.
Spray the nut/blade interface and tap the flats all the way round each nut with a hammer to break rust, etc. Then impact them off. Put copper anti-seize on the shaft threads when you put the new/sharpened blades on and tighten them down with a wrench, not the impact. JMHO.