Prep land for grass seed

[Alan0043]

I need help or suggestions in how to prep the land for grass seed. I know that it might seem strange that someone is planning to plant grass seed in the middle of the winter, but I want to be ready for when the ground temperature is right for
planting seed. Half the battle of doing any project is in the planning.

The land is about 1 acre in size and is rough and bumpy with a small hill, and a real pain in the neck to mow because the ground is so uneven. There is a mixture of different kinds of grass and weeds.

I own a NH TC24D tractor and have a 52" rototiller and also a
6' rear blade. What kind of equipment will I need ? Is there any other equipment that can help ? Looking for all suggestions or help.

 

[RalphVa]

I'd use your back blade to take off the high spots. Then rototill it. Maybe see if you can drag a section of something like chain link fence behind the rototiller to smooth it out as much as possible. Then I'd at least get soil samples (4 to 6" deep, about a cup full, several places, mix in plastic bucket and then do your own pH test or get kits from your extension agent and send in). VERY likely you'll have to at least lime it to get pH to 6.2-6.5. You'll likely find it to be around 5-5.5, too acidic for good grass growth.

Won't be able to spread seed until around late March or April.

Ralph

 

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue"> I'd use your back blade to take off the high spots. Then rototill it. Maybe see if you can drag a section of something like chain link fence behind the rototiller to smooth it out as much as possible. Then I'd at least get soil samples (4 to 6" deep, about a cup full, several places, mix in plastic bucket and then do your own pH test or get kits from your extension agent and send in). VERY likely you'll have to at least lime it to get pH to 6.2-6.5. You'll likely find it to be around 5-5.5, too acidic for good grass growth.
</font>

I agree with just about everything that Ralph said with the exception of pulling the chain link fence behind the tiller. If it gets wrapped up in the tiller you will wish you has taken the extra time and effort to pull the chain link fence by itself after you have tilled. Just my suggestion. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[RonR]

We tore up and re-seeded our backyard this fall. Our ground is hard clay and not very good. Here's some things I discovered:

Playing with the tiller when I first got it, I tilled part of the yard very deep, like 6-8 inches in multiple passes. That area stayed lose and never resettled for several months, when we were able to seed it.

For the rest of the yard, which was a poor stand of fescue, I rototilled it about 2 inches deep and made several passes, so the skid plates were maybe close to 4 inches deep. One week later, and after a rain, I re-tilled that area.

It was much easier to plant fescue in that ground than where I tilled it deeper.

I made a 3PH harrow to scratch the ground, then spread the seed and fertilizer, and harrowed again. It came up great! We watered it per recommendations and it looks nice.

That's my experinces anyway. From that though, it changes my long held belief that one should till very deep prior to planting. Tilling it shallow and leveling it seemed to make a great seedbed for the fescue.

Best wishes,
Ron

 

[Alan0043]

Can a box blade be used to help level the land ? Is the rototiller the best way to break up the ground ? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[rambler]

Well, I would plow it in fall letting the lumps mellow over winter, field cultivate it in spring, harrow it several times to level & pack it with fert going on at this time, and seed it, harrow it again.

But, I have big tractors & all that equipment. Since you have a tiller, the tiller is the best way to go on just an acre & your time frame.

Most of these small seeds prefer a good firm seedbed, not light fluffy soil, so you want to kinda pack it back down after tilling it _if_ it's dry.

--->Paul

 

[Phred]

Alan,

In Arkansas a soil test is free. Its paid for by a fert tax. So it makes sense to get a soil test. Even if it costs you something its the smartest thing you can do.

Look at the PH. If you need to add lime to get the PH up now is the time to do it. It takes a few months to work if you apply it on top of the soil. Works faster if you work it in.

Fred

 

[Junkman]

I can't speak for your neck of the woods, but here in Ct, I planted large areas of grass by first getting the ground turned over. This wasn't hard, because we buried a lot of large boulders with an excavator and then the entire surface was leveled with a bulldozer. I went over the entire surface with a York rake and pulled out most of the rocks. Then I spread triple 15 fertilizer and put down my grass seed. Rolled the surface and watched the birds have breakfast, lunch, and supper for a couple of weeks until the grass started to grow. Now I have a good looking lawn and everyone wants to know how I grow grass in gravel. It is simple. I use fertilizer in the spring and lots of lime also. I have my share of weeds, but as long as they are green, I don't get too upset with them.

 

[trkbldr]

I have to agree with your planning ahead theory. My advice, from personal experience, would be to prep the ground this summer and wait until late summer (mid August to late September) to sow the grass seed. Seed sown in early spring germinates well but the lack of moisture and extreme heat of summer will take it's toll on those new grass seedlings. If you can water deeply and water often, you may be OK. If not, your hard work and money will dry up and die. Seeding in the late summer / early fall allows the grass to develop a better root system. No heat stress involved and usually enough rainfall to keep watering to a minimum. Yes, I know people who could throw grass seed on a concrete driveway in the middle of July, go on vacation for two weeks, and come home to a beautiful stand of grass. I'm not one of those people, which is why I recommend sowing in the fall. Am I correct in assuming that this is going to be part of your lawn?

 

[art]

The tiller will loosen it up for you but don't go any deeper then you need to to level the soil. Later it might settle out and not be level. Do as suggested with lime and fertilizer to assure a good growth. The york rake or hand rake will help with a good level finish to seed.