Location of weights on rear blade.

[DutchHenryBrown]

I mounted these weights on the rear blade big improvement working with the blade.

 

[Wolfy]

Rear blades can skim over high areas. Those weights should help it dig in.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Don't get to much extra weight on there, the blade will end up failing. The implement is designed to withstand certain loads. You have now increased those loads. I little bit is probably fine, but a lot and you will end up not a happy camper. Been there done that, still need to get the shirt though.

Your next step will be one of these, that would put a smile on your face as well as a dent in the pocket book.

 

[thirdroc17]

That's what I'm planning on doing with mine. Used to use a mid blade where I could apply a little down force, but going to try the rear blade on the new tractor since I now have a 3-point hitch. Since I like the adaptability of a blade with offset, angle and tilt, but can't afford to buy a blade designed for a 85hp tractor when I'm using it on a 25hp tractor, I'm building the blade from scratch.

Still in the process of accumulating the steel for this project, and with no heat in the shop, not even sure I'll get much done on it before spring.

 

[skyhook]

I mounted these weights on the rear blade big improvement working with the blade.

What type of work are you doing with the weights on.

 

[DutchHenryBrown]

What type of work are you doing with the weights on.

Shyhook, mostly road grading with it trying to pull the spoils back onto the road bed. With the extra weight seems to bounce around less I have REAL rocky soil to deal with on the road. I have a total of 250#s on the blade I hope that's not to much after what MVR said?

 

[motownbrowne]

My thought is that with a blade, or for that matter, most ground engaging implements, down force is generated by blade tilt. Want the blade to dig deeper? Lengthen your top link and the blade will cut into the soil better. I was just reading about some bx users who had to trade their blades for heavier ones to get them not to ride up. I use a pretty light blade for snow. It's just what we've got. Worked great on the 8ns, works great on the Kubota. A couple of inches of top link adjustment makes a big difference.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Shyhook, mostly road grading with it trying to pull the spoils back onto the road bed. With the extra weight seems to bounce around less I have REAL rocky soil to deal with on the road. I have a total of 250#s on the blade I hope that's not to much after what MVR said?

I think that with your blade being a medium duty blade anyway and that you are not really cutting into virgin soil, but just moving soil that has been moved by traffic and what ever little weather it is that you get, you will be fine. Things start failing when you use an implement well past what it was designed for.

 

[LD1]

You must never rotate the blade 180 degrees. Weight in that location for me would be a PITA as I reverse the blade frequently when backfilling trenches and ditches

 

[DutchHenryBrown]

My thought is that with a blade, or for that matter, most ground engaging implements, down force is generated by blade tilt. Want the blade to dig deeper? Lengthen your top link and the blade will cut into the soil better. I was just reading about some bx users who had to trade their blades for heavier ones to get them not to ride up. I use a pretty light blade for snow. It's just what we've got. Worked great on the 8ns, works great on the Kubota. A couple of inches of top link adjustment makes a big difference.

I have used the top link for what you suggested cutting into the soil works fine. I was getting the bouncing when trying to move the dirt across the roadbed, having the extra weight seemed to help with that problem.