Box scraper technique

[GlueGuy]

I know this has been covered a hundred times somewhere around here, but I wasn't able to find it. The subject line says it all. Although I know a lot of practice is required, I would like to shorten the learning process as much as possible.

I have trouble keeping the blade from "going to china", and alternatively not doing much at all. I know (and think I understand) the basic technique for adjusting the angle of attack: Nose in the air for smoothing, opposite for scraping.

What I'm looking for are tips on finer granularity in the two extremes.

BTW - I could swear that somebody listed a link to a book or something that went over this subject.

I will be eternally greatful [grin]



The GlueGuy

 

[Thomas]

GlueGuy,
Once you have your ditch rough out,have you tried your scraper in the float mode at a slower speed.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[GlueGuy]

Thomas,

I'm not sure, but I don't think the B7500 has a float mode for the 3ph.

I have been going pretty slow (I think). I'm usually in low range, RPM around 2K. I try to set the blade just about where it will intersect the high points at about 1" below the tops. However, it seems like when it starts digging in, it just wants to go deeper...


The GlueGuy

 

[Harv]

<font color=blue>I don't think the B7500 has a float mode for the 3ph</font color=blue>

I'm still learning about this stuff myself, but since it is unlikely you have any downforce on your 3-pt, isn't putting it all the way down the same as "float"?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I have never used a box scraper but I do know that with my single bottom plow I have to work the 3ph control to keep it (the plow) at the right depth to turn the sod over without digging in too deep. You may need to do the same thing with the box scraper.

 

[Bird]

GlueGuy, if it wants to just keep digging deeper, then you need to adjust (lengthen) your top link.

And Harv, you're right, (or at least you would be for the B7100 without position control). You can just push the lever all the way forward and it'll just stay there and it's in "float."

And DennisY, if you get your top link adjusted right, you can put the 3-point all the way down and the plow will stay at about the same depth. If it's still trying to go deeper, that means the tip is pointed down and you need to lengthen your top link a little. If you have a place where you can back the tractor up to a ditch or something like that so you can let the plow down lower than the back wheels on the tractor to the depth you want the plow to run, then adjust the top link so the bottom of the plow is level, it'll pretty well run at that depth then.

Bird

 

[Harv]

<font color=blue>Harv, you're right, (or at least you would be for the B7100 without position control)</font color=blue>

Okay, Bird, now let me get this straight. "All the way down" floats, with or without position control. And position control allows you to set a minimum height, above which it still floats.

It all comes down to the fact that a standard 3ph has no down-force, right? Which means if the ground wants to push your implement up, it's always free to do so.

I'm probably spouting the obvious here, but I'm just trying to convince myself that I understand even the obvious. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I don't do a lot of this type of work with the scraper. I just haven't mastered it well enough. I took the front blade off our scraper and we use it for either scarifing with the points down, or just smoothing out using the rear facing blade.

What I have found that works tremendously better, is to use a rear rake, with a blade attachment and side panels, with two adjustable wheels on it. These are big about 12" diameter. You can move them up 1" at a time by redoing the spacers, quick and easy.

I'm able to float it along knowing it's going to cut 1" or 0 or whatever. One of these days I'm going to have someone make attachments to put the same wheels on my box scraper! Of course if I put the front blade on it I can't use it as a smoother with the rear blade.

Of course you can do this with a loader if you are REALLY good (I'm not), having the blade float behind me, and crossing the area at different angles, if there is room gets the job done. I use my BX for this purpose.

My 2 cents.
del

 

[Caretaker]

Harv,

That's the best explanation I've heard yet for how a 3PT implement operates - which explains why many 3PT implements have a weight pan on top.

I've also heard that a hydraulic Top Link can be used to apply down force to a 3PT implement. I can't see how that would work though, unless there is something for the Hydraulic Top Link to push against. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

"Still seeking enlightenment" /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[Bird]

Yep, you understand it, Harv. That's the way they work.

Bird