Box Scraper Need help with using box blade and my Kubota B7100

[Wilburn Cox]

Ihave a Kubota B7100 with 4x4 and HST. We have only 4 acres and I love the little tractor but have had no success, really, in using my 4 ft box blade. The blade travels up and down as the tractor travels over low places. I was told by the Kubota dealership that the B7100 3 point has no float position.
If any of you have a B7100 I would love to hear from you as to how to properly use the box blade in order to level small areas of soil. My box blade has two blades on it, front blade cuts into the soil and the other blade will drag it. I have found that by extending the top link I can drag the soil, sort of, with the rear blade barely touching the ground.
Any help is appreciated,
Thanks in advance and have a fantastic year,
Red Cox

 

[nybirdman]

Generally the three point in full down should float;these tractors don't have any "down" pressure other than the weight of the implement.Sounds like the geometry of the three point is not right.Pictures would help.
The top link only determines attack angle.
Box blades are to be used on dry loose materials,they will just run over sod.

 

[/pine]

The 3ph "not having" float does not sound right to me...I would open the 3ph drop rate valve (usually knob in front of seat) and see if this allows the blade to drop faster when the tractor raises...

IMO, Unless you are only going to be doing one specific task with the bb it is a tiresome chore to climb the bb learning curve without at least a hydraulic top link and preferably a tilt cylinder as well...T&T truly makes a world of difference in efficiency and effectiveness of bb's and just about any other grading etc. implement...

For cut and fill work shorten the top link and fill the box (if the ground is hard use scarifiers to break it up first) pulling it just past the area to be filled and drop the load...re-adjust the top link about mid point and raise the blades off the ground for the desired fill depth then push the load backwards...it will spread it much easier/smoother than trying to smoothly raise the 3ph going forward...

3ph arms are not meant to push heavy loads (especially unevenly) but it is no problem pushing a box load of earth, gravel etc...

When starting the cut (with shortened TL) with a lightweight bb...sometimes making false starts and slightly reversing helps the blade dig in and get a good cut...

When pulling a box load any distance past the cut area slightly adjust (lengthen) the TL to prevent further cutting until you reach the fill area...

You can also use the above method to "push" the loads into a pile that can be moved with a FEL if you have the room...

Good Luck...

 

[Wilburn Cox]

The 3ph "not having" float does not sound right to me...I would open the 3ph drop rate valve (usually knob in front of seat) and see if this allows the blade to drop faster when the tractor raises...

IMO, Unless you are only going to be doing one specific task with the bb it is a tiresome chore to climb the bb learning curve without at least a hydraulic top link and preferably a tilt cylinder as well...T&T truly makes a world of difference in efficiency and effectiveness of bb's and just about any other grading etc. implement...

For cut and fill work shorten the top link and fill the box (if the ground is hard use scarifiers to break it up first) pulling it just past the area to be filled and drop the load...re-adjust the top link about mid point and raise the blades off the ground for the desired fill depth then push the load backwards...it will spread it much easier/smoother than trying to smoothly raise the 3ph going forward...

3ph arms are not meant to push heavy loads (especially unevenly) but it is no problem pushing a box load of earth, gravel etc...

When starting the cut (with shortened TL) with a lightweight bb...sometimes making false starts and slightly reversing helps the blade dig in and get a good cut...

When pulling a box load any distance past the cut area slightly adjust (lengthen) the TL to prevent further cutting until you reach the fill area...

You can also use the above method to "push" the loads into a pile that can be moved with a FEL if you have the room...

Good Luck...

Thanks/pine,
I'll try opening the drop rate valve and give it a try. We had lots of rain last night and it may be a few days until dry enough to work the soil
Appreciate your input,
Red Cox

 

[sdef]

IMO, Unless you are only going to be doing one specific task with the bb it is a tiresome chore to climb the bb learning curve without at least a hydraulic top link and preferably a tilt cylinder as well...T&T truly makes a world of difference in efficiency and effectiveness of bb's and just about any other grading etc. implement...

Oh boy, I firmly agree with this. Fortunately I have TnT and learning to use a ROBB was FAR easier due to this fact... trust me. I would have been worn out climbing on/off/on the tractor many times a day making adjustments and would have been frustrated terribly. But my tasks were much greater than yours, so you will probably have better luck than I would have.

 

[Capt Dan]

I have two B7100's and they both float. As someone else has said they do not have any down pressure. You can take the lift arms and try pulling them upward. They should be able to move freely.

The main problem with using the box blade is the short wheelbase of the tractor. I think when the front wheels go up and down the solid top link causes the cutting angle to change even though the box itself is floating. You have to constantly adjust the 3 point height to try to overcome this since we don't have a hydraulic top link to change that angle.

So you need to adjust the height all the time and get a lot of practice. For just smoothing I've wondered if a chain top link would make a nice addition.

Dan

 

[/pine]

Any professional will tell you the best box blade is the heaviest one your tractor can handle...unfortunately those of us with smaller tractors have to compromise...therefore developing different techniques are often required to overcome those compromises...

A lot of times I will have to take the extra time using the scarifiers/rippers with my 300# bb where a bb that weighs 700-1000 #'s would sufficiently do the same (end) job without having to first loosen the material with the rippers...

I love my bb but it sure would make things easier if it had hydraulic scarifiers...

 

[Wilburn Cox]

I have two B7100's and they both float. As someone else has said they do not have any down pressure. You can take the lift arms and try pulling them upward. They should be able to move freely.

The main problem with using the box blade is the short wheelbase of the tractor. I think when the front wheels go up and down the solid top link causes the cutting angle to change even though the box itself is floating. You have to constantly adjust the 3 point height to try to overcome this since we don't have a hydraulic top link to change that angle.

So you need to adjust the height all the time and get a lot of practice. For just smoothing I've wondered if a chain top link would make a nice addition.

Dan

Dan, thanks for your reply. My Kubota B7100 is a 1994 model which I bought in 1997. I have never found a float position. The lift arms will not move freely and I have a tough time lining up to attach my implements. I have to lift each side of the implement in order to attach each lift arm. I am confused about this. There might not be any down pressure but the only way I can move them the lift arms is to bump the lift lever up or down. Can you explain further?
Thanks, Red Cox

 

[calman93611]

The cutting edge on the box scraper should sit lower than the sides of the scraper. If it is even with the sides, then the cutting edge is worn. On level ground, or your concrete driveway, slowly lower the scraper until the cutting edge touches the ground/concrete. If the sides of the scraper touch first, then adjust the top link until the cutting edge touches first. Usually a box scraper is adjusted so the bottom of the scraper is parallel to the ground and the cutting edge is sitting about 1" lower so it hits first when being lowered. If your ground is too hard or dry then either wait till it rains a bit, or lower the ripper shanks so they can loosen the dirt. Personally after I loosen the dirt I switch to an 8' scraper blade, pulling it normally to set the pre-final grade, then turning it around to get a finish grade. On my B7100 I could get a finish grade of about +/- 1 1/2" over 1/4 acre. But leveling land takes practice and an experienced eye to see level over large distances. After 35 years I am getting decent at it, lol.

 

[jenkinsph]

Dan, thanks for your reply. My Kubota B7100 is a 1994 model which I bought in 1997. I have never found a float position. The lift arms will not move freely and I have a tough time lining up to attach my implements. I have to lift each side of the implement in order to attach each lift arm. I am confused about this. There might not be any down pressure but the only way I can move them the lift arms is to bump the lift lever up or down. Can you explain further?
Thanks, Red Cox

Kind of late to respond to this thread but understand there is no float position for the rockshaft lever, the rock shaft cylinder is a single acting type with hydraulics being used to raise the rock shaft hitch. Down pressure is by gravity alone, if you lower the hitch arms as others have mentioned you should be able to lift them up by hand. May take 50 lbs of lift force on a small tractor at most.