LPGS - I got one!

[aeblank]

So, about 3 weeks ago my wife found a LandPride GS1572 on CL in Wisconsin....about 8 hours away.
As it so happens, my parents were going up to grandma's farm (about 45 minutes away from the Wisconsin location) a couple weeks later.
As it so happens, they were already taking the truck so they could haul back something else.

Well, last night it made it home. Cost me an even $1,000.
Heck, it already had the QH bushings on it......

I need to mod my Harbor Freight quick hitch a little bit (like post #24 here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/291783-quick-hitch-top-hook-clearance-3.html)

What do you think?

Also, how should I set the blades to start with? I have what I call hoopties.... Just a driveway with humps and dips. I am 99% SAND with a little "grey dirt" over the top. Maybe a rock or two here or there. I hear of people with their blades 1" below the skids, which seems like a ton of bite to me, but I just don't know yet. So, suggestions????? Or I just try it however it is set right now......

 

[MtnViewRanch]

To start with, use it as is. Adjust the top link so that the skids are level with the ground, (both cutting edges cutting equally) and go to work. You are going to love the results.

 

[EagleTDL]

I've got a 4' version of the same thing to behind my BX, wouldn't trade it for the world! Maintain about 500' of gravel drives with it... I originally tried to use a box blade and due to my ineptness, only made matters worse. A couple of passes with the Grading Plane and it looks like a pro came in and worked over the drives...

As MtnViewRanch said above, just adjust your toplink to have the skids level and go to town. I usually adjust mine on the shop floor, then go to work. I've experimented with sliding the blades up or down and have found that, for me at least, I get the best results with the blades even with the bottom of the skids. I've got one of the Hydra-Links, so if I've developed a high spot in the drive, in that area I'll just let the GP float and let it cut the high spot out. Once I've done that, I'll readjust to level and then redistribute the gravel. A couple of passes each way and it will look like a million bucks!

If you want to get really fancy, then you put a little tilt into your 3-point and crown the drive if you have any drainage issues. I don't do that, but if you do, make sure you make your passes the way each time, otherwise you'll re-level any crown you have created.

 

[aeblank]

Based on the adjustment bolt in the picture, it is set pretty aggressive (near the deep end of the adjustment). We'll see how it goes.

 

[EagleTDL]

Pull it at speed, you'll get a better "tumble" effect over the blades... The deeper bite may work better for your loose material you describe above?? I've only worked gravel with mine, you may have to tinker a bit to fine tune your setup...

Good luck! :thumbsup:

 

[crazyal]

This is how I use mine. If the gravel is loose, either in the spring when the ground hasn't set up or after I've ripped it up with the shanks I set the blades even (or even slightly higher than the skids) for the final passes. I find the skids sink into the loose gravel and the blades will dig too much dirt unless they are at their highest position. I never go below 1/4" below the skids unless I really want to move a lot of gravel. When using the rippers I often shorten up the top link to get a better angle for the teeth to bite in. Plus it allows for them to go deeper. On a smooth road the shanks don't need to go deep but a rutty road often means only a couple shanks will even tough the ground. I prefer to rip almost any time I use the scrapper. I just find the results last longer when I loosen the gravel up before spreading it around. If I don't the loose stuff just fills in the low spots but the hard packed parts funnel the rain into to the softer stuff washing out.

 

[aeblank]

Ok, so I got it hooked up and as it started to rain, blasted (at varying speed from slow to fast) down the driveway and back.

That thing loaded up full. It did seem to improve the driveway, even in one pass, but I had dirt all the way up to the cross members. It looks NOTHING like the videos I've seen online. Though it does look like at least one of MtnView's pictures that he posts every chance he gets (not complaining, love the pics).

I think the blades are too deep. I didn't get a chance to adjust them (dinner/cranky pants 3 year old/etc.), but that's my plan.

Am I wrong?
Thoughts?

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Did you end up with a lot of sod or clumping of the dirt? The surface needs to be wet enough that you can work it but still dry enough that the gravel/dirt will spill over the blades. Even with the blades 1" below the skids I don't see why it should load up.

With the blades set flush, you'll only ever be able to take off high spots and fill the low, you'll never actually be able to cut anything lower than the high spots. Setting them ABOVE the runners makes no sense to me whatsoever for working a lane. I built my own last year and have choices or either smooth or toothed blades and can have them set at flush or 1" below for the smooth and either 1.5" or 2.5" below for the toothed. I'm currently using toothed front with smooth back and both set at their bottom setting

 

[aeblank]

It's all dry sand.....
I mostly went down the middle, so not really any debris (leaves etc) as that is off to the side.
Its acting like a box blade, it seems like. I was surprised and at least a little confused.

 

[olllotj]

Sounds to me like you need to lengthen your top link so that it doesn't dig quite as much.

 

[aeblank]

Sounds to me like you need to lengthen your top link so that it doesn't dig quite as much.

ooo, ok. Fair enough.
I started with it level (to within 1/4 inch for sure, probably more like 1/8"---at least if you can believe my garage floor).
I still may adjust the blades, simply because I don't know where they are right now. Lengthening the top link is faster though. =)

 

[aeblank]

Sounds to me like you need to lengthen your top link so that it doesn't dig quite as much.

ooo, ok. Fair enough.
I started with it level (to within 1/4 inch for sure, probably more like 1/8"---at least if you can believe my garage floor).
I still may adjust the blades, simply because I don't know where they are right now. Lengthening the top link is faster though. =)

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

That is plenty close to level. If you set it back on the concrete floor, measure between the skid and the floor at the ends of the blade, that will quickly tell you how deep they are set. I see no reason why or how dry sand would pile up and not spill over regardless of how the blades are set but I'm by no means an expert with one of these. The only thing I can guess is perhaps you were driving too fast and the material was rolling in front of the blade, like snow would do in front of a straight blade.

 

[aeblank]

I went fast and slow, just to try. It was starting to rain, so I didn't take the time to get off and look at the back to see WTF was going on.
I agree though, and it isn't what I expected. That's why I'm here.:thumbsup:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

It's all dry sand.....
I mostly went down the middle, so not really any debris (leaves etc) as that is off to the side.
Its acting like a box blade, it seems like. I was surprised and at least a little confused.

Keep in mind that a LPGS will not, can not move any dirt. I know that for a fact, I read it on the internet.

A hydraulic top link really makes operating these much much better, just like it can (does) for a box blade.

 

[aeblank]

Keep in mind that a LPGS will not, can not move any dirt. I know that for a fact, I read it on the internet.

I just know I had more buildup than i wanted.
TnT isnt in the cards for a *long* time. I'll just have to figure it out.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I just know I had more buildup than i wanted.
TnT isnt in the cards for a *long* time. I'll just have to figure it out.

Have the front cutting edge just a bit higher than the rear.

 

[crazyal]

Raise both blades up so they are level with the skid and then adjust your top link so it sits level to slightly having the front higher than the rear (as you pull it will tend to pull the front down). I personally don't try to get material to spill over the top. Start off less aggressive to learn and then you can fine tune what works for you. My BEFCO would only allow the blades to go flush. I ended up drilling holes so I can now bring the blades about 1/2" above the skids. For my final passes I put them up that high so when the skids sink in to the gravel I've loosened it just skims the top and I get a real smooth finish. Otherwise the blades just dig up too much material. Personally I would rather have a small pile in front of the blades that will drop into the ruts you want to fill unless the road is in real bad shape and I'm doing major work. It might be slower but I'm looking to smooth out my drive, not move a bunch of material.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Raise both blades up so they are level with the skid and then adjust your top link so it sits level to slightly having the front higher than the rear (as you pull it will tend to pull the front down). I personally don't try to get material to spill over the top. Start off less aggressive to learn and then you can fine tune what works for you. My BEFCO would only allow the blades to go flush. I ended up drilling holes so I can now bring the blades about 1/2" above the skids. For my final passes I put them up that high so when the skids sink in to the gravel I've loosened it just skims the top and I get a real smooth finish. Otherwise the blades just dig up too much material. Personally I would rather have a small pile in front of the blades that will drop into the ruts you want to fill unless the road is in real bad shape and I'm doing major work. It might be slower but I'm looking to smooth out my drive, not move a bunch of material.

Just curious, why not just use the position control to adjust for height?

 

[jenkinsph]

I agree with others that for finishing work the blades should be flush. If you need to cut down pot holes it is necessary to rip below the bottom of these holes.