field prep/remediation

[dennisleary]

I have a 5 acre field that I used to lease out to a tenant, and he left it in pretty bad shape, lots of gullies, ruts, berms, black plastic everywhere. Does anyone have a suggestion about how to level it, so I can row crop it afterwards? Should I just rent a tandem disc (I have a 50 HP Kubota), or should I ask one of my neighbors if they will rip it down to 12"or so, then disc it afterwards? Also, its been pretty dry in CA lately - would it make sense to wait for more soil moisture (like, in the fall, when it rains) to try to level the field? I understand that I shouldn't work the ground when its too wet, but right now it seems hard as cement, and very dusty. Anyways, all suggestions are much appreciated - thanks.

 

[jeff9366]

Wait for moisture.

With a 50-hp tractor a HEAVY rear/angle blade may be your best implement to commence the leveling process, with adequately moist soil. Especially true if you have two hydraulic ports at the Three Point Hitch so you can adjust the blade as the tractor moves.

LINK: RBT35 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride

 

[DJ54]

I believe I'd pick all of the black plastic I could, before doing anything. That stuff never seems to go away. I'm still finding pieces of black plastic here, where Dad used it for as few years to mulch tomato plants, and that was in the mid 80's.

Seems to me, a chisel plow would be best for a rough tillage to fill in ruts somewhat, and give you some loose material to finish with. A disc with a harrowgator, or drag harrow behind should give you a nice finish.

Depending on what part of the growing season it is, either plant your crop, or if too late, sow a cover crop to keep things in place, until you do. Something like Buckwheat, or Cowpeas/Winter peas makes a nice cover crop,and adds lots of organic matter, and breaks down fast when tilled in. Cereal Rye is another good one. It comes up fast, adds lots of organic matter, but breaks down a little slower. The type of cover crop sown, would to me depend a lot on the type of planting you do. No-till, or conventional tillage, and planting.

 

[Ed of all trades]

I would do it now and have a cover of some kind on it so it does not wash more. The equipment needed depends on the field. Are the gullies 6" deep or 18" ect. More info would help.

 

[flusher]

Clear off the plastic and other debris. Don't do anything to disturb whatever is growing there now. In this drought you need some type of ground cover to prevent the topsoil from turning to dust and blowing away.

Wait for rain? Good luck on that. Brooks, CA is not far from Sacramento. We've had less than 4 inches of rain this year in the city. The hot, dry months are coming. There's nothing you can plant on your field until Oct/Nov, assuming the rain comes by then.

Good luck

 

[jenkinsph]

I have a 5 acre field that I used to lease out to a tenant, and he left it in pretty bad shape, lots of gullies, ruts, berms, black plastic everywhere. Does anyone have a suggestion about how to level it, so I can row crop it afterwards? Should I just rent a tandem disc (I have a 50 HP Kubota), or should I ask one of my neighbors if they will rip it down to 12"or so, then disc it afterwards? Also, its been pretty dry in CA lately - would it make sense to wait for more soil moisture (like, in the fall, when it rains) to try to level the field? I understand that I shouldn't work the ground when its too wet, but right now it seems hard as cement, and very dusty. Anyways, all suggestions are much appreciated - thanks.

What implements do you have to work with now?

It may be far cheaper to have a neighbor rip it up and disc it for you as you mention. I would then smooth it out with a lpgs in most cases. For leveling pastures or setting to grade I use a box blade for most jobs and follow up with the lpgs.

I should add that waiting for moisture should make the whole job easier. I worked on a job last night until 1130PM getting it ripped up before the rain today. So it depends on your situation, ripping before the rain will allow more moisture into the ground before it drains off.

 

[bdog]

Chiseled ground doesn't blow near as bad as disced ground. Chiseling will leave a lot residue and rough surface which helps prevent blowing. If you could get it chiseled / ripped I would do that and then leave it alone until you get rain. As Jenkinsph mentioned it will also allow the moisture to soak in an not run off.

Normally what I do is chisel my fields after the cows graze them off in the fall and then let them sit over the winter and then disc or run a field cultivator over them in the spring right before planting. My neighbors have a lot of fields around me that are just idle. After rains I see water running off or pooling up like crazy on their places and on my chiseled ground it just soaks in.

 

[jeff9366]

Buckeye Tractor is the only vender of Chisel Plows suitable for 50-hp tractors that I am aware of.

LINK: Buckeye Tractor Online Catalog Page 18-01 Chisel Plows

WIKIPEDIA
Specialist plows
Chisel plows​

The chisel plough is a common tool to get deep tillage (prepared land) with limited soil disruption. The main function of this plough is to loosen and aerate the soils while leaving crop residue at the top of the soil. This plough can be used to reduce the effects of compaction and to help break up ploughpan and hardpan. Unlike many other ploughs the chisel will not invert or turn the soil. This characteristic has made it a useful addition to no-till and low-till farming practices that attempt to maximise the erosion-prevention benefits of keeping organic matter and farming residues present on the soil surface through the year. Because of these attributes, a chisel plough is considered to be more sustainable than other types of plough, such as the mouldboard plough.

The chisel plough is typically set to run up to a depth of eight to twelve inches (200 to 300 mm). However some models may run much deeper. Each of the individual ploughs, or shanks, are typically set from nine inches (229 mm) to twelve inches (305 mm) apart. Such a plough can encounter significant soil drag, consequently a tractor of sufficient power and good traction is required. When planning to plough with a chisel plough it is important to bear in mind that 10 to 15 horsepower per shank will be required.