Bottom Plow Identify

[gmhorse]

I need some help identifying this bottom plow. It was sitting halfway buried in the dirt. The owner mentioned Deerborn. It looks a lot like the Ford 101 to me but has much smaller toplink arms it seems.

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

Looks like my #412-14" John Deere. Here's a link to help ID it, Tyler the Plow Guy - Identify Your John Deere Plow. HTH Mark

In other news.....WOW first post. Welcome.

 

[gmhorse]

Thank you for the quick reply. Yes indeed it does look to be a John Deere 412. I was hoping to restore this plow but it seems parts may be hard to find for this model? I assume since this plow was made for the John deere 40 which was built from 1953-1955 that the plow must be in that year range? This plow was purchased used in the 70's and used by a farmer that in now 89 years old. From talking with him he thought this plow was a Ford plow and used it to plow 70 - 80 acres many times behind a Ford tractor.

Yes first post! It is amazing how finding an old plow can light a fire within. Thanks again for any information you can provide. If I can find a source for parts I do plan on doing a complete restore to this plow.

 

[jeff9366]

TSC has some plow parts. Agri Supply has slightly more plow parts.

Wiese Industries stocks a few additional plow parts: Wiese Industries Home Page

Wearparts actually makes plow parts: Wearparts - Moldboard Plow

Do not overlook John Deere, either at your local dealer or online. Deere and Kubota are the two tractor brands with the best parts support.

Its pretty unlikely Deere actually made the plow. Someone here will tell you who the OEM supplier to Deere was and you can web search from that angle too.

It looks like a "trip" plow. Not too hard to unbolt it and clean the trip mechanism out.

Photo #4 That is young Allan Byrd, the mechanic at Suwannee River Kubota, who had the Ford Series 101 "trip" apart and back together so fast he made me dizzy. I could have done the disassembly, cleaning, lubing and reassembly myself…….in 126 hours.

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

If I can find a source for parts I do plan on doing a complete restore to this plow.

Check here..... Tyler the Plow Guy - Products . I think Tyler will be able to get you about any part you want. While you're there, look around. There's a bunch of good info on that site, even about how to help ID the plow you have.

 

[Greenland South]

I picked up a 415 at an auction a couple weeks ago. It was confirmed by Tyler the plow guy moments ago. Jeff9366 can you explain the function of the "trip". I'm not very experienced with tractor stuff as yet.

 

[jeff9366]

If the plow hits a boulder or another immutable object underground, the plow "trips" protecting the plow and preventing the tractor from possibly rearing up to a vertical position. (I went vertical on a John Deere 750, dragging a log on the ground. I never want to do that again.) All you need to do to reset the "trip" is to lay the plow on the ground and back up. (That is if your trip mechanism is not packed with years of dirt and rust.)

I do not know if your NH TC45DA has Draft Control (usually a second control lever inboard from the Three Point Hitch lift control) but that also protects your from the tractor going vertical. The higher pair of adjustment holes you select for the INBOARD/TRACTOR end of your Three Point Hitch 'Top Link', the more sensitive your Draft Control setting.

Some Blaster penetrant, a wire wheel, then a polishing wheel for the moldboard, perhaps some new ground contact parts and you will be very good to go.

We are all friends here. TELL US WHAT YOU PAID.

Here is T-B-N's best thread on plow adjustment: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...oard-plow-wisdom-farmwithjunk.html?highlight=

 

[Greenland South]

I Paid $600 for it. I haven't any idea if that's to much. It doesn't appear to have had a lot of use.

 

[jeff9366]

That is a good price.

You will have to see how it plows after you get it cleaned up and after you learn how to plow. The first time you drop your right wheel into the 'dead' furrow so the tractors cants to the right, you will wonder "what have I gotten myself into?

The moldboard has to be rust free and shiny to pull properly and to turn over the dirt properly. A rusty moldboard is a high friction, high draft force, moldboard. You will likely require some Naval Jelly, rust dissolver.

Many apply a coat of grease, preferably water resistant marine grease, on the plow moldboards between uses. This has not worked for me in hot, humid Florida. I spray one thin coat of whatever color Rustoleum spray pain I have on the clean moldboards between uses. One thin coat scrubs off quickly, yet has given me 100% rust protection.

I keep a old-time, 18 ounce cotton tarpaulin over my plow. Do not use a plastic tarp, which will cause water condensation and rust on your plow.

I try to plow in January here. It is beginning to get cold then. We have an occasional freeze. February is our coldest month. I generally Disc Harrow in early March. In April it is time to seed my Spring/Summer food plots.

I also plow and Disc Harrow gardens for old folks in the area, on request.

 

[TerryR]

Jeff,

I understand the idea of a trip function, but looking at the photos I can't figure out where it is. Does this plow have that function? If so, could you explain where is it located?

Terry