Brush Hog blade Just Won't Come Off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[drizler]

US made 20 years old and the blades need to come down to take off the gear box. Won't budge, heat , Penetrant flooding for a week , more heat. This pig won't budge. The top of the deck is flexing around which makes it all the harder too. I gotta get this pig apart so I can weld some plate up there and stop the oil canning. Any great ideas beyond beyond hammering it to heck which I already have through the hole in the top. My last ditch is to put the flat cut off chisel in the air hammer and wail away. I'm not quiet ready for that yet. I have it up on saw horses right now so it's stable and easy to get at. :confused2:

 

[rustyshakelford]

More heat and a torque multiplier

Brett

 

[Sheldon Hamblin]

Would a gear puller work?

 

[ovrszd]

I have a Snap-On air hammer. A blunt bit and hammer the snot out of it. :confused3:

 

[Scooby074]

What are you using for heat? Oxy/Ace?

Second the SO air hammer

 

[Avondale]

I just had mine off, took to our dealer's work shop. The Bush Hog spec was for 600 ft/lb. Probably way more would be my guess. We took the whole hub & blades assembly off the gear box spline shaft, (castle nut came off easier). Once the hub was clamped to the welding bench, used a 780 ft/lb air impact wrench (Ingorsoll Rand) on a 120 psi air pipe to loosen. Bob

 

[George2615]

I just had mine off, took to our dealer's work shop. The Bush Hog spec was for 600 ft/lb. Probably way more would be my guess. We took the whole hub & blades assembly off the gear box spline shaft, (castle nut came off easier). Once the hub was clamped to the welding bench, used a 780 ft/lb air impact wrench (Ingorsoll Rand) on a 120 psi air pipe to loosen. Bob

I second this. Always works for me.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Are you trying to remove the blades or the stump jumper from the gear box. I would try to get that off the gearbox first then work on the bolts holding the blades where you can access them easier. You need to replace the bolts on the blades anyway, so just torch them off or chisel the nuts off (a nut buster works well for this).

The stump jumper can be tricky to remove also because it is a tapered shaft, so just removing the bolt wont make it come off. It needs equal pressure from both side like a bearing puller exerts to make it come off. It may also require a bit of heat if it is rusted on.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

if im reading right, you have the nut off but not pressed out?
I use a 3/4 pneumatic impact to get the nut off. Then I lift the whole thing up with jack stands. I put an adjustable jack stand under the bar that the bolt goes thru to support it. Then a long 1" diameter round bar, I pound it with a small sledge and hope it comes out.

 

[drizler]

Are you trying to remove the blades or the stump jumper from the gear box. I would try to get that off the gearbox first then work on the bolts holding the blades where you can access them easier. You need to replace the bolts on the blades anyway, so just torch them off or chisel the nuts off (a nut buster works well for this).

The stump jumper can be tricky to remove also because it is a tapered shaft, so just removing the bolt wont make it come off. It needs equal pressure from both side like a bearing puller exerts to make it come off. It may also require a bit of heat if it is rusted on.

Stump jumper from the gear box needs to come off. I have been using oxy propane but will give my reserve bottle of Ace a shot at it tomorrow. Meanwhile it is soaking in my homemade mix of acetone/auto tranny fluid. Sooner or later it will come off. It's just hard with the deck flexing around.