blade bolt

[rangerrick180]

hi folks , i am trying to replace blades on a 5x5 sidewinder fmc rotary mower.
i have got the nuts off of the top side but cant get the bottom of the
bolt to brake loose. my question is does the part that the blade bolt
goes thru have threads also. i replaced some on a bushhog brand mower
one time and it didnt have threads in that part ? any info or advise
would be appreciated!

 

[kebo]

If you will go to the link, I think the picture will show you what you are dealing with. The bushing doesn't appear to have threads, just looks like it is pressed in maybe? Be sure to double click on the image.

You might try putting the nut back on the threads so it's flush with the bolt, the tap on it with a mallet, or maybe cover it with a piece of wood and bang on it a few times. It wouldn't hurt to hose it down with some penetrating fluid first. Good luck.

Sidewinder Blade Bolt

 

[countrybumpkin]

The bolts are only held in place by the nuts, once they are removed the bolts will come out the bottom side of the blade bar. However that may not be as easy as it sounds, due to years of being in place. The easiest way I found to remove the bolts is to remove the nuts , I use a 1" air gun , then put the nuts back on the bolts just flush with it, as stated above. Then from under the deck I use a large piece of wood such as a 6" x 6" setting on the floor, then take a something like a steel pipe coupling just big enough that the head of the blade bolt will slide through it, set the coupling on the block of wood, and lower the cutter down to where the blade bolt is setting inside the pipe coupler and the blade pan bar is resting on the coupler. This will support the blade bar as not to put excessive force on the output shaft of the gear box, this has to be in line with the access hole in the deck that is used to remove the blade nuts. I've got a piece of 2" round bar stock about 8" long I slide through the deck hole and set on top of the nut, then a few good hits with a sledge hammer and the bolt will push out the bottom. Hope I explained it well enough for you to understand how I do it, if not just ask and I'll try to explain a bit better. In all the years of changing blades on cutters I've always had this method work without much hassle. When you go to reassemble the bolts and blades I always use anti seize coating on everything, makes the next removal a bit easier.

 

[LD1]

Not sure on that particular cutter, but there is usually a small key in the bolt to keep the bolt head from spinning when you tighten the nut. IF that is indeed the case, you aint gonna get the bottom to spin.

You have to drive the bolts out from the top.

Either put the nut back on and use a wood block, or a punch right in the middle of the bolt. The bolts I buy are recessed on the top end and fit a 3/8" punch pretty good.

 

[Vdubfreaky]

If you will go to the link, I think the picture will show you what you are dealing with. The bushing doesn't appear to have threads, just looks like it is pressed in maybe? Be sure to double click on the image.

You might try putting the nut back on the threads so it's flush with the bolt, the tap on it with a mallet, or maybe cover it with a piece of wood and bang on it a few times. It wouldn't hurt to hose it down with some penetrating fluid first. Good luck.

Sidewinder Blade Bolt

Thank you,

I am currently taking my FMC Side Winder pull behind cutter apart to replace the blades. A lot of banging and hitting and oils and brake fluid. At first unsupported and putting on the pressure on the gear box. Then supported with nothing happening. After seeing this post, I then bought at 1000ftlb impact wrench and hit each one of them. I figured since the bolt was threaded maybe the rust was threaded and it would spin easier than being beaten out.

WELL. Turns out the the bolts are threaded into the inch thick bar and the bolt on top acts more like a locking nut.

One came off with the new impact drive while the other one is still giving me a headache. It will be a couple of more days of oils and heat and impact before it comes off.

Thanks to everyone that posted but I just wanted to let people know that sometimes they are threaded into the center bar. (and if the nut on the top comes off correctly, then it is not reverse thread)