Box scraper basics

[Bird]

Of course, the extra weight would be nice, but I guess I just don't understand the hinged rear blade. I've never used, or seen anyone else use, one of them, and I can't figure out why anyone would want the hinged blade. Got to be some reason for them that I don't know about.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Bird, I guess that the hinged back originated because somebody decided that they didn't like the box riding on the rear cutting edge when they tilted the box back. With a hinged back the rear edge gets out of the way and lets the front edge do the cutting. This might make the difference between the scarifiers ripping or not while cutting with the front edge. I'm not saying it's better or worse; just different. It all comes down to what you feel is the right way to use the implement.

When I went shopping for box blades the hinged back was the one that CT had in stock. I picked the one that was complete and had the most paint. I did stop at a few other places, and saw Bush Hog, Rhino, and Gannon boxes for more money than I wanted to spend.

 

[Keoke]

Bird, a hinged rear blade also let's one push dirt in reverse (backfilling) and when going back forward for another run rear blade simply folds up. This means that you don't have to lift the box up on the forward pass. This setup requires that you tilt the box back so that the inner blade is a good ways above the ground on your forward pass.
On the tilt forward/or back for a heavy cut business. Could it be that on a real heavy box (Gannon) the weight of the box is such that just shifting that weight onto the inner blade (extended link) will get you a deep cut? On the lighter boxes it may require that you tilt the box down at nose (shorting link) forcing the inner blade into the ground at a steep angle to get a heavy cut. Just a thought, what do you think?

george

 

[gordon]

When boxblading the key is toplink length for what you want to do. For ripping you can either drop the rippers down all the way or leave them in the middle position. If in the middle position shorten the toplink just past level. Meaning the front of the box just alittle lower in front that way you will rip and scrape at the same time.

For leveling tilt the box back so it's riding on the rearblade and slowly raise the 3pt hitch to dump the box.

This is why a hydraulic toplink makes using a boxblade so much easier. You can lenghten the toplink to dump the box and grade it out in one process. That way your not constantly messing with the 3pt height. Makes you look like a pro real quick.

The key to being a hotcat on a boxblade is practice, practice, practice oh yea did I mention that it takes alittle bit to get the hang of it. Also take smaller bites at times and you'll sometimes make better time and less mess than taking big bites.

Gordon

 

[jimmoore]

The greater the angle on the front blade the more it bites the ground, this / compared to this l

jim

 

[Bird]

Beats me, George. I use the fixed rear blade like a dozer backing up to push dirt in reverse. Obviously, there's something (or several things) I don't know about that hinged blade. So far I haven't been able to imagine how it would be any use to me.

Gordon, most of the time when I was smoothing and leveling that driveway yesterday, I never picked up the box with the 3-point. I just left the 3-point hitch all the way down and drove forward and backward adjusting the top link as I went until I got it the way I wanted it.

Bird

 

[gordon]

All of those runs into town are sure proving to be worth all that hassle now aren't they? A hydraulic toplink sure does make life alot easier.

The production goes up and the hassle goes down just by having an extra cylinder to play with. I know when I got mine I wondered why I ever waited as long as I did to install it.
Is that too many I's in one sentence???
Gordon

 

[TWINKLE_TOES]

Bird,

I have been using a Land Pride box (no hinge) on my wifes B7500 (no position control). I find it darn hard to do a good job of leveling. I have played with the top link and got the drift of that. Just a few turns makes a big difference. Lowering the box down is pretty gracefull but up is a challenge. Is there something I am missing, besides position control and hydraulic top link, and more time on the tractor? She does a much better job than I, it's getting embarrassing./w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

 

[Bird]

Al, I don't think you're missing anything. Of course, whether you have position control or not, you can adjust the speed with which an implement falls, but not the speed it rises (other than idling the engine). And I know how you feel about the wife doing a better job. My wife's never touched a tractor, but when I had the B7100 my brother could do a better job of smoothing and leveling than I could, and I've got a lot more tractor time than he'll ever have./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Bird

 

[Bird]

Yeah, Gordon, I think it was worth it. Of course, there were even more trips than I told about on the forum. It's been too wet and muddy to do anything lately, but last week, I decided to try out the new hydraulics for a few minutes and discovered that danged Tisco cylinder had a small factory defect; a tiny leak around one of the fittings that was welded onto the side. It wasn't enough to squirt out; just oozed out and dripped off. So I had to take it and have the cylinder taken apart and that spot ground down and re-welded./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif But everything seemed to work right yesterday finally.


Bird