Grapple Looking for add on grapple for my 54 inch light duty bucket.

[jobguy]

I have a 54 inch bucket and could use a add on grapple. Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks

 

[newbury]

I'm in a similar situation with my B7610 . After adding up the costs, both in money AND weight of putting a QA on the loader, changing the bucket and adding a QA plate to it I'm seriously considering a "thumb" Thumb grapple 36".

Based on this REAL world condition thread:

Lots of folks are asking about lift capacities on loaders these days.
This info may help.

Kubota B and L series loaders
Approx. lift capacities based on our actual payload test with implements mounted on three point hitch as counterweight, standard buckets and usually with standard (with water and antifreeze ballast installed in the rear tires).

Caution should be used here.
The different loaders lift power is measured at different points by the mfg.s and on various publications.
Sometimes at pivot pins, center of bucket, w/wo buckets, with and without counterweight, and sometimes - I think-even with the rear of tractor tied down to the floor.

I know of not one -- just and exact-spec. sheet to compare all models and brands by ONE CRITERIA.
That's why we ask shoppers not to pay too much emphasis on any mfg.s loader spec. sales/sheets.
They are all printed by the mfg. to serve their needs.

Use these numbers and ours as well only as a guide.
Actual working capacity depends mostly on bucket size, weight, tractor counterweight, skill levels of operator and actual working conditions at the site.

Always remember that if the weight is not on the rear end of the tractor. The loader cannot lift its full potential payload safely.

BX 2200 LA 211 - 460 LB
B 7400 LA 272 - 495 LB
B 7500 LA 302 - 660 LB
B 2410 LA 352 - 770 LB
<snip>

my LA352 is good for 770 lbs. Adding a QA plate cost $100 and 50lbs. Adding a pin on QA adapter costs from about $300 to $900 and 100 lbs. Then getting an EA light weight grapple costs about $1,500. IF I was a business and time was money it MIGHT make sense. But as a retired "Harried Homeowner" spending well over $2,000 and losing 20% of lift capacity for a tool I'll probably use well less than 40 hours a year does not make sense.

I've gotten by well with chains and clamp-on pallet forks. I'd lay the chains down, scoop up brush using FEL and forks, dump on chains, make a big pile, "tie" it up with the chains. Then slide the FEL/forks under the pile and carry it all away.

But I'm thinking a "thumb" for $500 would be a good tradeoff.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I have found my thumb type grapple extremely useful and productive. The only advise I can give is to try to find one that has some curvature to it. One that does not close down flat. The side edges of your bucket act as one side of the grapple while the thumb or tines act as the other. When the grapple is closed you want some room in there to hold stuff and if you are trying to grab something fat you want to get on either side as much as possible. If you try to grab with a wide open "V" rather than a "U" stuff slips out easier. A lot has to do with the way you mount it. Mine was very good when I first got it but I changed the mounting position and added more curvature over the years to make it even better. You can see the changes I made in the picture to give you an idea what I am telling you to look for. Also adding a tooth bar is another big improvement in being able to grab stuff. It stops stuff like logs from just sliding down the bucket edges.

Now don't get me wrong. My grapple was wonderful before I added the tooth bar and made the changes. I used it for years and loved it. I am just trying to show you what to look for in comparing units and show you that mounting position is important.



Then I added the tooth bar



gg

 

[nybirdman]

I like my Green's Machines Thumb.Works well and saves some weight.

 

[Neil L]

Gordon, do you like the studs on the bucket edge, are there any drawbacks? Never seen them before, knee jerk is I may add them to my bucket.
Thanks,
Neil

 

[ovrszd]

Gordon, do you like the studs on the bucket edge, are there any drawbacks? Never seen them before, knee jerk is I may add them to my bucket.
Thanks,
Neil

That's the first time I've saw that. Curious to hear the response as to their usefulness. I use a homemade Grapple on a Bobcat bucket. I can't say I've ever wished the bucket edge had teeth. But I'm always open to modifications and improvements.

 

[Gordon Gould]

The thing I do most is load my truck with logs. It is the main reason I bought it.



Frozen ice covered logs or just wet logs can be very slippery. The first change I made was to put those little teeth on the bucket edge and the grapple tines so I could bite through the ice or slippery bark and get a good grip. The teeth are just short pieces of 1/2" re-bar or rod welded on like little round teeth. Makes a world of difference in getting a good grip and keeping a big log from sliding out when you close down on it. They also help hold more brush.

Then when I added the tooth bar it became easy to do two at a time.



gg

 

[mark02tj]

I also have a Greens-Machine "Thumb". It works well for me!

 

[ovrszd]

My grapple tines/claws have teeth on them. Just never thought I needed them on the bucket edge. I'll give that some thought.

Once my tines clamp over an object and press it against the bucket teeth, it ain't goin nowhere.

 

[IslandTractor]

I have a 54 inch bucket and could use a add on grapple. Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks

I don't know if they are still in business but Add A Grapple made nice bolt on kits to create bucket grapples. Of course the other option is to buy an upper grapple arm and weld it on. I believe there was a guy on eBay many moons ago selling "The Thumb" which was well built.