What Size Scrape Blade

[MMH]

...I believe that your tractor will handle the 8' blade in the snow without much problem. As far as grading, you won't be making any deep cuts and be able to handle those cuts very well. If you are only doing light grading, probably no problems. If you have heavy grading to be done, then maybe you would be better off with the 7'. We don't know what your actual needs are. Without being there to know, all any of us can do is give you an educated guess.

You have been given many reply's by experienced people to get the 8 footer. I don't know what else to add other than yes you can get things done with a 7" blade also. A 7" blade at a 35* angle makes a cut about 66" wide. An 8' blade is about 78" in width.

Part of the problem is the width of your tractor and the lighter weight that it is. Typically a tractor of the width that yours is, is several thousand pounds heavier and would handle an 8" blade much easier in all conditions...

The dirt is so bad here that sometimes it stops my tractor w/ a 5' box blade. For heavy grading I would break up the surface w/ the box blade w/ the scarifiers down & then smooth w/ the wider blade. Worst case I could double up on the cutting edge & bolt a narrower & lower cutting edge. That way the aggressive cutting would be done w/ a 'narrower' blade and the full width would be there to spread the loose stuff that the cutting edge kicks up. I know that this is not an ideal solution, but maybe it would work??? Worst case, if the 8' is too much, I can always trim it down w/ a gas axe! Far easier than trying to stretch a 7' blade.

I suppose loading the tires would help. How much weight would be added by loading 17.5L-24 tires?

Finally, I did find a better price locally for the blade - $1475.

Thanks to all that replied. Ultimately I know that only I can decide. Problem is that I will only if I choose wisely only after deciding - kind of a catch 22.

 

[LD1]

Loaded tires will certainly help, but them being R4s won't.

How much it adds depends on what you use. Beetjuice calcium, water and antifreeze, washer fluid, etc

Charts are online if you Google.it

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The dirt is so bad here that sometimes it stops my tractor w/ a 5' box blade. For heavy grading I would break up the surface w/ the box blade w/ the scarifiers down & then smooth w/ the wider blade. Worst case I could double up on the cutting edge & bolt a narrower & lower cutting edge. That way the aggressive cutting would be done w/ a 'narrower' blade and the full width would be there to spread the loose stuff that the cutting edge kicks up. I know that this is not an ideal solution, but maybe it would work??? Worst case, if the 8' is too much, I can always trim it down w/ a gas axe! Far easier than trying to stretch a 7' blade.

I suppose loading the tires would help. How much weight would be added by loading 17.5L-24 tires?

Finally, I did find a better price locally for the blade - $1475.

Thanks to all that replied. Ultimately I know that only I can decide. Problem is that I will only if I choose wisely only after deciding - kind of a catch 22.

Load the tires, front and rear. All the weight you can get will help out with the performance of the blade. I have all tires loaded with both my 12,000lb and 5000lb tractors.

What a GREAT performance enhancer that was for me. Better traction, better ride, oh and I have R4s on both machines.

$1474 sounds good to me, did you order it yet? Oh, when you place the order, add the skid shoes, makes a HUGE difference. Costly though, but worth every cent IMO. :thumbsup:

 

[MMH]

Loaded tires will certainly help, but them being R4s won't....

I will use chains. This will partially offset the worst traction of the R4s

 

[MMH]

Load the tires, front and rear. All the weight you can get will help out with the performance of the blade. I have all tires loaded with both my 12,000lb and 5000lb tractors.

What a GREAT performance enhancer that was for me. Better traction, better ride, oh and I have R4s on both machines.

$1474 sounds good to me, did you order it yet? Oh, when you place the order, add the skid shoes, makes a HUGE difference. Costly though, but worth every cent IMO. :thumbsup:

I have been meaning to load the tires for years. I loaded the tires on my Kubota right away. Granted, that tractor has R1s not R4s, but, I could be up to the axles in watery muck & the little tractor plows thru! I have experienced the benefits of loading tires, but just have not gotten around to it for the JD.

I will order in the next couple of days. I will get the skid shoes & hydraulic angling. $2K later unfortunately... And, that is before the chains & salt spreader. Add a pallet of salt & round up the price of snow removal to $4K.

 

[MMH]

So what is the difference between a RB3796 and a RBT3596? Seems like the RBT is set up for hydraulics for offset, tilt and angle, but the hydraulics themselves are options. It is about 80 lbs. heavier and but I don't know about the difference in cost.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

So what is the difference between a RB3796 and a RBT3596? Seems like the RBT is set up for hydraulics for offset, tilt and angle, but the hydraulics themselves are options. It is about 80 lbs. heavier and but I don't know about the difference in cost.

With no hydraulics, about $1000 difference I would guess. Take a good look at how the RBT is made. Waaaaaaay stronger than the RB.

Moldboards are not even close for strength. RBT all the way.

 

[LD1]

Both rated for lots larger tractors than the OP is asking about.

The simple difference other than hydraulics
RB = Rear blade.
RBT= Rear blade w/Tilt feature

 

[lostcreekranch]

I have been meaning to load the tires for years. I loaded the tires on my Kubota right away. Granted, that tractor has R1s not R4s, but, I could be up to the axles in watery muck & the little tractor plows thru! I have experienced the benefits of loading tires, but just have not gotten around to it for the JD. I will order in the next couple of days. I will get the skid shoes & hydraulic angling. $2K later unfortunately... And, that is before the chains & salt spreader. Add a pallet of salt & round up the price of snow removal to $4K.

MMH; You will save money and get better hydraulic cylinders buying them from Brian @ Fit-Rite Hydraulics (Mtnviewranch). He builds welded cylinders which IMHO are superior to the tie rod cylinders that LP will supply.

I looked at both RB3796 and the RBT3796 and went with the RB and it does everything I need in our sandy soil. I am ordering skid shoes for it. My tractor is an LS XR4046 HC and at 46 HP it handles the 8' blade easily.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Both rated for lots larger tractors than the OP is asking about.

The simple difference other than hydraulics
RB = Rear blade.
RBT= Rear blade w/Tilt feature

Actually the 37 series RB has the tilt feature also. Take a look at both the specs and the pin down low in the middle of the blade.