New to Quick Hitches - What do I need?

[bcp]

Modifications should be done to whatever is out of specs, even if it means a little more work. Specifications have been out for years but I still see new implements that don't meet them.

Quick hitch specs


Implement specs


Bruce

 

[Ed Weber]

Thank you bcp,
I appreciate you taking the time to post those diagrams. I know it will save me (and hopefully some others) a lot of time having this info beforehand.

 

[JRobyn]

Unfortunately, Bruce is right, it seems that no one pays the slightest attention to the standards. On my new QH from Rural King (NOT the Speeco as indicated, but a Chinese "Country Way") the "N" dimension between the lower and upper hooks that is supposed to be 14.78 to 14.88 in. is ADJUSTABLE. Think that it can be adjusted to 14.78-14.88? Nope! 15 in to 18-1/8 in.!

:mur:

 

[JRobyn]

I am also having to modify implements (bushhog and box blade) fairly extensively to play nicely with said cheap Chinese QH. I'm attempting to do so in such a way that they can be easily retrofitted to again use with "regular" Cat 1 7/8" lift pins and 3/4" top pins so that my FIL or BILs could use my implements with their non-QH tractors. Further constrained by attempting to configure both implements with identical "N" spacing so as to not need to adjust the QH once I get everything set.

So far have had to extend the top hook by 1" as others have discussed in similar threads on here, am relocating the top pin support struts on both, and reversing the swinging top connection for the top pin connection on the Bush Hog. Plus adding all the bushings to go from at least Cat 1 to Cat 2. Although the QH hooks appear to actually be Cat 3 sized.

Ordered a bunch of bushings from Amazon (various suppliers), including two sets of the shouldered lift pin bushings (Northern Tool). Although I don't think I can use them on the Bush Hog because the existing pins are already 27 - 1/8" wide at the bases. Maybe I can use them with the shoulder "out". And just got back from TSC with a big bag of $65 worth of other assorted bolts, nuts, and bushings that I MIGHT also need.

Did you know that it is not real easy to drill new 3/4" holes in 1/4" steel implement frames and struts?

Sheesh!

 

[bcp]

Did you know that it is not real easy to drill new 3/4" holes in 1/4" steel implement frames and struts?

Sheesh!

Even with all the great inventions of the last 50 years, you still can't go into a hardware store and buy a box of 3/4 inch holes.



Bruce

 

[Ed Weber]

I am also having to modify implements (bushhog and box blade) fairly extensively to play nicely with said cheap Chinese QH.

Sheesh!

This is what I'm trying to avoid.
Does the Speeco (or other brand) have the same top hook issues or clearance issues as the imports?
Thanks

 

[JRobyn]

I believe the simple answer is yes. Unless all of your implements were designed to be used with a QH. Because my real problem is that the implement, in this case a locally made box blade, was definitely NOT ever intended to be used with a quick hitch. So the top link frame of the BB is so fat from front to back that the QH top hook does not stick far enough out from its mounting to engage the top pin of the implement. And the "N" dimension of any and all holes in the top link frame is random, certainly NOT the specified QH-compatible 14.78" - 14.88".

So if your implements are not designed to be QH compatible, and even if they are in some cases, you are forced to make some mods.

Pat's QH, that only attaches to the lift pins, avoids all of this, but then you do still have to manually connect your top link.

 

[JRobyn]

Some nice work by the local welding and fab shop.

As noted, I needed to extend the back of my top hook like others have done with my "Country Way" chinese QH. Turns out it is 1 -3/16" thick and shop only had 1 -1/8 or 1 - 1/4 stock. Said he could use the thicker stock, weld, and then mill it back down so it would all be the same thickness. But would cost me $20+ extra to set up the mill. I was already in for the stock and $65 for one hour minimum shop time. Paid a total of $120, but also got a 5' section of 1" square tube and had that stitch welded to a matching piece of 1 - 1/4 angle for another project.

I think I got a great deal. Agree?

 

[ovrszd]

The effect of moving the top hook rearward or forward is the attachment will no longer hang level. A change in the top link length will be required for correction.

 

[SSdoxie]

This is what I'm trying to avoid.
Does the Speeco (or other brand) have the same top hook issues or clearance issues as the imports?
Thanks

My QH is Speeco and it does have the extended top hook, places the hook out far enough that the side frames of implement top link do not hit the pins of the hook.

The effect of moving the top hook rearward or forward is the attachment will no longer hang level. A change in the top link length will be required for correction.

Sure this moves the top out but every implement I have requires different setting of top link anyway. That is one of 2 reasons I have hydraulic top link. Other reason (primary reason) for the hydraulic link is to grab the top link first then pull the implement that last 1 -2" into the hitch, then raise and lock it in from tractor seat.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Yea a whole 60.00 in bushings??:ashamed: Thats deep.

$60 in unneeded bushings is more foolish than deep.

 

[murphy1244]

$60 in unneeded bushings is more foolish than deep.

Says you. You do what works for you and I'll do what works for me and I don't need your **** calling me foolish.

 

[RoyJackson]

Says you. You do what works for you and I'll do what works for me and I don't need your **** calling me foolish.

I agree. I'd guess I have $45 to $60 worth of bushings. Only one pair being used right now since I sold my snow blower and donated my bush hog to a hunting camp
These 3 sets were from Agri-Supply, IIRC...about $10-$15 for the bushings and roll pins, plus shipping.
So, if you're foolish, so am I! But I just don't feel foolish...do you?

 

[Ed Weber]

My QH is Speeco and it does have the extended top hook, places the hook out far enough that the side frames of implement top link do not hit the pins of the hook.

Thank you, this is the information I was looking for.
IMO It's probably worth the extra cost initially so that I don't have to do any (or at least very little) modifications to my existing attachments. As far as bushings, what ever works best for you. I'll most likely use the inexpensive straight bushing since I have all my attachments equipt with washers and pins. A few dollars in bushings spread over several pieces of equipment is a pretty good investment in my book.
Good Thread, thank you CompactTractorFan for starting it.

 

[murphy1244]

I agree. I'd guess I have $45 to $60 worth of bushings. Only one pair being used right now since I sold my snow blower and donated my bush hog to a hunting camp
These 3 sets were from Agri-Supply, IIRC...about $10-$15 for the bushings and roll pins, plus shipping.
So, if you're foolish, so am I! But I just don't feel foolish...do you?

No Roy I don't. I actually feel real good about the ease of changing implements now. Just sick of this Ahole, always has a stupid comment for me.

 

[RoyJackson]

No Roy I don't. I actually feel real good about the ease of changing implements now. Just sick of this Ahole, always has a stupid comment for me.

I keep the bushing on the implements so I don't have to mess around when I want to swap out. Just don't have those implements now...
A snow blow blower is coming....doubt if I buy another rotary cutter.
As far as A-holes...just got to learn to ignore 'em.

 

[JRobyn]

While we're talking about bushings and being dumb - I really wanted my top link bushing to be as wide as practical to make it easier to grab the implement with the top hook. About 2-1/2" was my ideal - fit the existing Bush Hog swivel perfectly and I could use almost any width on the boxblade.

Problem was that all the adapter bushings I could find were 1-xx" something. So I found some nice 3" bushings from a caster supply place. Figured I'd just cut them down to what I wanted.

They're hardened!! Hacksaw will barely even polish them a little. It's going to take me a while to grind them down!

 

[SPYDERLK]

While we're talking about bushings and being dumb - I really wanted my top link bushing to be as wide as practical to make it easier to grab the implement with the top hook. About 2-1/2" was my ideal - fit the existing Bush Hog swivel perfectly and I could use almost any width on the boxblade.

Problem was that all the adapter bushings I could find were 1-xx" something. So I found some nice 3" bushings from a caster supply place. Figured I'd just cut them down to what I wanted.

They're hardened!! Hacksaw will barely even polish them a little. It's going to take me a while to grind them down!

Carbide Grit blades are available for hack saws and reciprocating saws. Also cutoff disks if you have something to drive them. A drillpress on "high" would work.

 

[downsizingnow48]

The top link bushings are a standard DOM tube size .75 ID x 1.25 OD. I buy it in 3 ft lengths and cut to exact length needed.

 

[KennyG]

Unfortunately, Bruce is right, it seems that no one pays the slightest attention to the standards. On my new QH from Rural King (NOT the Speeco as indicated, but a Chinese "Country Way") the "N" dimension between the lower and upper hooks that is supposed to be 14.78 to 14.88 in. is ADJUSTABLE. Think that it can be adjusted to 14.78-14.88? Nope! 15 in to 18-1/8 in.!

:mur:

I think you missed the point. The spec for implements is 14.94 to 15.06 - nominal 15". The hitch spec is slightly less so the implement will not be supported on the top hook. My Harbor Freight QH, in the lowest position, was about 14.9 so it works fine. There is no adjustment necessary if all implements are QH compatible. The reason it adjusts up to 18" is the three point standard is 18" (which is what your Quick Hitch should be on the tractor side). The adjustment allows you to move the top hook to 3 PT height instead of QH height for non-compatible implements.