Box Scraper Is there really a difference in box blades?

[AllenArmory]

Maybe this is a newbie question, but aren't box blades just chunks of metal? My dealer is offering a 6' VTEKS box blade for dealer cost ($600) when purchasing a tractor from him. Should I do it or look for a higher quality box blade? What does it even mean to get a higher quality box blade?

 

[ultrarunner]

Don't know too much about them except heavier costs more and is generally more robust.

I do have top and tilt and wish I would have sprung for the hydraulic controlled ripper height.

 

[motownbrowne]

It looks like you're going to be buying implements for a 55 HP cab tractor. That TYM weighs 4200# without loaded tires or the loader. If you're like 80% of members here, you'll load the rears, which gets you better traction and stability. So, with loaded tires and the loader, you're gonna be looking at a tractor in the 6000-6500# range.

Yes, a back blade is a chunk of metal, but yes, there is a big difference in quality. A higher quality blade will weigh considerably more. The added weight makes the unit cut much better and makes it much more durable. I don't know what the actual tread width will be on your rig, but you want a blade wider than your tire treads, I'd think you'll be looking at 6 or 7 foot models. Personally, I'd look for a used one. If you can find a decent deal, you'll be able to get a much more heavy duty blade that will be way more useful, much less likely to get damaged, and will always be worth what you paid for it, or a little more.

By the way, one of the only drawbacks to a larger tractor is that implements cost considerably more than for the smaller compacts.

 

[brown40]

They are all basically the same in design and function, in the same vein that saying a paring knife is the same as a machete. Weights vary greatly, depending on the gauges of metal used. You need to cover your tracks, and you need enough weight to do the job (without losing traction). Your tractor can handle a heavier blade, but what your needs are should determine what you need a box blade to do/how much weight the job takes to do. Snow removal, light grading, manure and chip removal don't take much... scarifying unbroken ground, or getting deeper into a road bed/pot hole, you need the weight to sink the teeth, and the extra steel to withstand the pull--tractor dependent.
Mine is my go to counterweight, but at 560# for a 6 footer, its not especially heavy. I've added an old wagon axle and free weights to get the total up to ~900#. It works MUCH better as a counterweight, and for what jobs I have the traction to do. I do not have enough tractor to twist up a 400# blade, let alone a 900# one, so adding to a lighter box works.
If my 560# box was on a 150 hp Ag machine, it could get torn up pretty quick under the wrong circumstances.

 

[TripleR]

As mentioned, same basic design for standard box scrapers, but lots of difference. Thickness of metal, attachment and adjustment of rippers, number and strength of rippers, type of bracing and hitch pin types.

Then there are Roll Over Box Scrapers, preferred by many.

Your uses will depend on your needs, usually the heavier the better and I prefer the "heavy" because of construction and not added weight. Yes, I tried adding weight to my old one and it makes a good counterweight, but I use my heavily built one for real dirt work.

The downside for many is increased quality means increased cost; worth it to some, not to others.

 

[jeff9366]

The key metric is weight per unit of width.

100 pounds per foot is OK. 125 pounds per foot is better. 150++ pounds per foot is nirvana.

Pictured Bush Hog (brand) 60" Rollover Box Blade weighs 630 pounds = 126 pounds per foot.

Soil: Florida sandy-loam.

 

[oosik]

I have the Bush Hog 72" ROBB(RO720). Looks exactly like what jeff9366 has pictured. It weighs 710 = 118 pounds per foot. With my hydraulic top link it does a great job of moving dirt. I also have a 400 pound concrete block that I can place on it for added weight. I've found that by using the hydraulic top link and the rippers its just as effective as adding the concrete block and a whole lot easier to control/use. I can easily take a deep cut and end up with all four wheels digging.

 

[sdef]

I have the same blade jeff9366 has except in the 72" version and really enjoy the usefulness and quality of this ROBB. My soil is very hard clay and very rocky with rock sizes in excess of 1000#. Sometimes I wish for a heavier blade- one maybe twice this weight for better penetration in my tough soil conditions. In many hours of grading I have only damaged it once in a minor way by bending a shank a couple inches sideways I believe happened when the shanks were digging deep and the unseen tip of a buried rock (think iceberg type of build) happened to pass between the two shanks. Off course, the buried rock would not move so the steel had to.

No lesser BB would work nor survive at my place. Attached is a pic of the type of the rocks (many) I have dug up- initially with the ROBB and then finally with the stump bucket and rock grapple bucket. And the completed job made doable by this ROBB.

 

[ishiboo]

I think the economy box blades work just fine if they have twin curved cutting edges and rippers... I'm still using my 6' KK from my last tractor and it's only 500 lbs. It has no problem cutting, it'll fill up and stop the tractor especially with the rippers down no problem. Yes, my 1400 lb rear blade will dig in faster, but it's not really an issue. It's brought the tractor to an immediate stop hitting 24" iron stakes in the driveway (and pulled 2 out) so build quality has not been an issue.

Given the size of your tractor though, I wouldn't buy a new 6' box blade. You probably want a 7' at the very least. Keep your eyes out on Craigslist for a nice Gannon/Woods or other brand name box.

 

[roadhunter]

The key metric is weight per unit of width.

100 pounds per foot is OK. 125 pounds per foot is better. 150 pounds per foot is nirvana.

Pictured Bush Hog (brand) 60" Rollover Box Blade weighs 630 pounds = 126 pounds per foot.

Soil: Florida sandy-loam.

My new 200 pound per foot blade is really nice. 1400 pounds 7 ft. When I purchased I figured everything on a cost per pound basis. Simple but effective as I felt they were similar in design.