Flail Mower Ford 917L shaft bearing

[paulsharvey]

My 50" Ford 917L has a bad bearing on the belt side of the shaft. I unbolted the assembly and removed a small hex set screw that holds the pulley on the shaft. Is there something I'm missing to remove the pulley from the bearing and all? I beat on it some, but nothing. put some PB blaster in the set screw hole, and leaving it sit. Do I just need a BFH? Also, I found on Messerinks the bearing, but it's $65, hoping to match size for less $$

 

[Steave]

Check closely to make sure that's the only set screw. Lot of pulleys have 2. One on the key and another 90* from it. May also check inside the pulley groove. I would guess it'll be rusted real good (or bad) at the key and keyway on the shaft. Lots of soaking should turn it loose. Hope you can save your pulley they'e not cheap either. Also need to be soaking whatever is holding the shaft to the bearing.

 

[paulsharvey]

So, after lots and lots heat, PB blaster and a Whole lot of a BFH, I got the bearing off. It appears I need 1.5" ID x 3.0" OD bearing; oh and a pulley with a 1.5" ID and a roughly similar OD to the orginal....

 

[Steave]

At least you got it off. I've had pulley's froze to a shaft and had to cut them off and I've tried pullers and end up breaking the pulley apart then have to cut it off. I finally learned if I've got to order parts and have them ready when the plow or whatever is in the shop I go ahead and order all the parts expecting the worse. Usually end up using the parts but I do have a few spare pulleys and gears that I didn't need. Hate sending stuff back if its not to expensive I just keep it. At least you can find parts for your flail mower. A bearing shop could match up the bearing probably and maybe the pulley too. Good luck with it.

 

[leonz]

OK if you have a Kaman Bearing Inc. office or a NAPA dealer that knows something about bearings you can purchase them locally with zero issues.

All Bearings are metric, all Pulleys are metric BECAUSE all V-Belts are metric.

The bearing inner race and outer race and the bearing housing will have all the identifying numbers on them that you need.

Please be sure to use fine emery paper-400 grit or greater and smooth the exposed shaft end before you remove the bearing.

PLEASE, PLEASE, check to find all the set screws as they have to come out before you do anything else.

NOW, please be careful removing the bearing and housing as one piece from the stub shaft of the Flail Mower Rotor.

You MUST support the flail mower rotor to prevent it from dropping after you unbolt the bearing housing from the
side weldment of the flail mower.

It might be well worth your time to invest in some block ice to cool the shaft end of the flail mower rotor rather than using a smoke wrench. once the shaft end is smooth it will slip right off if the shaft was made cold enough- overnight with block ice.

 

[paulsharvey]

I've got a new bearing and 4 bolt flange coming from Amazon for $12.95. I'm about 65% sure it will work, or can be modified to work. Now I'm trying to find a pulley that will work. I had assumed they would be easy to find, but I may have to rig something up. Still, $13, some cusing, welding and all sure beats the $65 from Ford-New Holland.

 

[Steave]

I've got a new bearing and 4 bolt flange coming from Amazon for $12.95. I'm about 65% sure it will work, or can be modified to work. Now I'm trying to find a pulley that will work. I had assumed they would be easy to find, but I may have to rig something up. Still, $13, some cusing, welding and all sure beats the $65 from Ford-New Holland.

I'm sure you already know all bearings are not created equal. Usually a descent bearing will have an RPM rating as well as load rating. Some bearings may be the exact same size but are maybe made to operate a turn table for sculpters or a lazy susan for the dining room table. Not always but if its a stamped steel housing with a bearing its probably a low RPM bearing so check the speed. Your cutter shaft is turning in the neighborhood of 2000 RPM running at cutting speed. I usually get my bearings local at a parts house. They can match it about 99% of the time and a lot less expensive. I hear the grass growing now so you'd better get it going.

Check Mcmaster Carr for a pulley. They don't sell real cheap but if all else fails.. . . .

 

[paulsharvey]

New bearing arrived yesterday, with 4 bolt flange and bolt holes matched perfectly. Bearing ID was correct, but I had to file, buff, grind, and polish shaft to get it on the end. Apparently it was either mushroomed when I was trying to remove pulley, or it was already mushroomed, and that's why I had to break the pulley of with the BFH.

 

[Steave]

New bearing arrived yesterday, with 4 bolt flange and bolt holes matched perfectly. Bearing ID was correct, but I had to file, buff, grind, and polish shaft to get it on the end. Apparently it was either mushroomed when I was trying to remove pulley, or it was already mushroomed, and that's why I had to break the pulley of with the BFH.

Well you got out cheap enough. Bearings for my Mott 72 are $48 at Mcmaster Carr and I have found cheaper ones a bearing store online about $30 but don't know of the quality of those. I haven't checked yet but someone mentioned about $75 a piece at Alamo/Mott. My trusty bearing store in town let me down this time and said I would have to go to an agriculture place to get them?

 

[paulsharvey]

So, the pulley I had to break to get off, costs $68... so, who knew a 1-3/8" bore, 5" diameter pulley was so dam expensive. Couldn't find one cheaper, so I grabbed a $12.99 pulley at TSC, welded a 1-3/8" collar to it, and then slid it on shaft, then tacked it in 3 places. Hopefully it holds up for a few years. $65 bearing and $68 pulley on a $150 mower. nah.