Speeco Quick Hitch questions

[bjorn773]

I am just not trying to hook up a Speeco Cat 1 quick hitch that I purchased last winter used. I am having a heck of a time getting my Woods brush hog to hook up. I welded some ears on the top link attachment arms to rectify an interference issue I was having with the top hook on the quick hitch. Then I had to trim a gusset from the deck to the lower pin support to provide clearance for the lower hooks. I imagine since all of my implements are older, that I will need to do some modifications to get them to work. It looks like I should be using bushings to increase the diameter of my pins too. Once I was able to get the mower attached, there seems to be a lot of space in the top hook. If I raise it, I don't think I will be able to clear all three simultaneously as I back up to the mower. Am I correct in assuming that all three should line up or am I supposed to hook the top then raise the 3 point to engage the lower pins. I apologize if this is a stupid question, but without instructions I seem to be missing something.

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

hate to tell you this but a lot of older implements are not quick hitch compatible and modifycations are necessary but in the end its well worth the trouble as ease of changing equipment take the time i have spaced brackets to get proper alignment and such good luck

 

[Threepoint]

[snip]It looks like I should be using bushings to increase the diameter of my pins too. Once I was able to get the mower attached, there seems to be a lot of space in the top hook. If I raise it, I don't think I will be able to clear all three simultaneously as I back up to the mower. Am I correct in assuming that all three should line up or am I supposed to hook the top then raise the 3 point to engage the lower pins. [snip]

Ideally, once you've backed up to the implement with your QH, the top hook and lower hooks should all be in line with their corresponding pins, and engage simultaneously as you raise the hitch. Looks like you need to raise the top hook one or two holes in its bracket. Also looks like you may need to lengthen your adjustable top link a bit for that particular implement (a great excuse to get a hydraulic top link, BTW ). Hard to tell from the photo, but hopefully the ears that you added at the top of your implement extend far enough to allow engagement simultaneously.

Easy to increase the diameter of your cat 1 implement lift pins. For the lower lift pins, Northern Equipment has nifty quick hitch bushings for this. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200479426_200479426 TSC also sells the same thing, but they're more expensive there. For the top link pin, TSC or any tractor supply will have a bushing to enlarge from cat 1 to cat 2, which is probably what you want.

Modifying older implements to work with QHs can be a pain, but worth it, as Rocky says.

Even so, QHs are not magic. Unless you have firm, level footing to set your implements down on before you disconnect, and chock them properly, it may take a few minutes of trial and error in getting everything lined up well the next time you use them. Especially if you've had to adjust the top link in the interim for a different implement.

 

[man00]

I have the Speeco and it's been a pain with my cutter and tiller..top hook gives me the most problems.

 

[bjorn773]

Also looks like you may need to lengthen your adjustable top link a bit for that particular implement (a great excuse to get a hydraulic top link, BTW ).

I actually just picked up a couple of used cylinders for a hydraulic top link. I need to tap into my 3pt hydraulics to plumb... that's the next project.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I have a HF QH and a Land Pride mower. Had to modify the HF some, that's another story. LP's web site has all their operating manuals and parts manuals for free down load; recommend you get the LP QH15/QH20 and the LP RCR 1542/1548 manuals for reference material. The HF QH is similar to the LP one. They will show you how it is all supposed to work.

What some call bushings to increase the pin sizes to match the QH hooks are called Spacer Tubes in the parts list. Lower tubes are .93 ID X 1.44 OD. The Top link Spacer tube is 13/16 ID X 1 1/4 OD. Cat 1/Cat 2 adapters are not large enough OD to fit snug in the hooks.

LP and other mowers recommend you use a floating top link for their mowers, in fact the LP comes with that feature. The LP QH manual. This allows the mower to follow ground contour and small obstructions without stressing the frame work of the mower and QH. The QH manual shows that part (two flat plates with a 13/16 hole in each end.

I buy the spacer tubes at my dealer who sells LP brand implements; now owned by Kubota. I have tubes installed on all 12 of my implements as they are easy to misplace; I keep extras as I lose them sometimes. I also keep an assortment of link pin parts also. I buy the longest top link tubes LP has and cut to fit as they vary a lot in length implement to implement.

Trust this helps, Ron

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

I FORGOT TO MENTION I DON'T USE THE TOP HOOK BUT INSTEAD USE A LINK THAT THEY USED TO SUPPLY AS AN OPTION IT LOOKS LIKE A Y GOES IN SAME PIN AS TOP LINK AND THEN PINS TO TOP BRACKET ON IMPLEMENT I FOUND THIS MUCH EASIER TO USE WITH DIFFERENT EQUIP.

 

[JRobyn]

You are ALMOST there. Threepoint covered it all very well. To reinforce:

Get the lower bushing kits for each of your implements from Northern.

Get "bushings" or "spacer tubes" for the top link pin for each implement from TSC or most any source. DOM (drawn over mandrel) tubing also works and can be cut to any length you want.

Raise your QH top hook one or two holes. In my case, my different implements vary enough between them on lower-to-top pin spacing that I need to move the upper hook when I change implements. This can be facilitated by using 1/2" dia pins with hairpin retainers like in post #55 here - http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...tch-6.html?highlight=quick+hitch+pin+top+hook

Your top link pin does NOT need to sit all the way down in the top hook. Implement lifting is done by the lower pins. Anywhere from 0 to about 3/4" gap is fine.

 

[Fallon]

My Land Pride has a flex link to attach to the top hook. You might consider chain. A solid mount on top will result in your mower turning into a taco or breaking the 3pt when going over ditches unless it has an articulation point.

 

[bcp]

If you have a flex link in front of the implement hitch A-frame, move it behind the A-frame.



Bruce