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  1. #1
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    Default woods 60 vs. 600?

    On Monday next I'm ordering a new TC45 w/FEL, box blade etc. --- I'm in a bit of a quandry over the brush hog however. It's between the woods 60 or 600. Both are just 60" wide (for going between trees) but the 600 is definitely more ... everything. It has a 120 hp gearbox - twice the weight, and twice the price. I'll be cutting mostly heavy brush - clearing out tons of yaupon, greenbriar, etc. My questions for y'all: Is there any danger having a 40hp pto running a 120hp brushbull in hitting something that the brushbull would take in stride, but then having that torque transfer to the tractor? It has a slip clutch - but I have never adjusted one and how do you know where to set it for "X" torque? Would the model 60 w/50hp gearbox be the safer bet and would it do the job at half the price? I don't want to buy more than I need, or buy more than the tractor can handle, but would really be lockjawed if I bought less than I needed. This forum has really helped me make some decisions already (HD bucket w/bolt on toothbar fer sure) and I could use some more input here guys. thanks
    mfk (mikim) at home



  2. #2
    Super Star Member Thomas's Avatar
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    Lebanon,NH.
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    Kubota L2800HST w/Frontloader & CC LTX1046 & Craftman T2200 lawn mower.

    Default Re: woods 60 vs. 600?

    What type of land and how many arces and whats the size your planing to bush hog,plus are you planing to reclaim the edge of the fields.
    By the sounds you have done your homework,for 40hp to 50hp today seems to handle the smaller farms.

    Good luck towards your investment.

    Thomas..NH [img]/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif[/img]

  3. #3
    Veteran Member mikim's Avatar
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    Paige Texas
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    NH TC45

    Default Re: woods 60 vs. 600?

    The property is 8 acres of trees and brush that to my knowledge hasn't been cleared since they closed the stagecoach road that ran through it. There are no "fields" It's bordered on 2 sides by more of the same, the highway on the third, and on the fourth by pasture. No fences yet - hence my need for a digger - lots of glacier rock and sandy loam on the top 18" of soil and clay under that - My problem is - Would the Woods 600 break my tractor? It weighs 1,000 lbs which is OK - but I'm afraid it's heavier duty than the pto can handle. If I'm gonna break something, I'd sure rather tear up a bushhog gear box instead of the tractor. Or -- am I letting my imagination run away with me and worrying over nuttin'?
    mfk


  4. #4
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    Default Re: woods 60 vs. 600?

    Mike,
    I have a kubota L3410, smaller than your tractor and I have Woods 600 on the way. I don't think it will break the tractor, but I know the tractor WON'T break the cutter! I cut about 3 miles of logging trails and I need the beef (at least that's what I told myself....)[img]/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif[/img]. I just like knowing that I can back into the thick and nasty stuff and whale away at it with the cutter . By the way, me dealer's price was 1399 for the cutter and 200 for the chains. I think I got a pretty good price by going with the guy that sold me the tractor.

    If you are a little skittish about the slip clutch not slipping, you can have the dealer work with you and show how to adjust it, then set it up "loose".

    Tractor on,
    John Bud


  5. #5
    Veteran Member mikim's Avatar
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    Paige Texas
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    NH TC45

    Default Re: woods 60 vs. 600?

    I ordered the 600 -- the slip clutch on it is a new style - doesn't have the old nut/bolt & spring setup. It's got "warped washers" (my term) and the salesman wasn't sure how it adjusted. I guess we'll find out. I used the same logic as you on wanting the heavier duty 600 vs. 60. After taking a good look at both - 60 sitting next to a 720 - it made the decision even easier. The blades come off the 600 a lot easier - it has replaceable skids - the gearbox is evidently geared a little differently as it spins just a hair faster - the side steel is a bit heavier - Just a lot of little things that made the extra $500 worth it. With chains, and ordered at the same time as the tractor, - $1550 - so I guess I got a good price too. The BushHog brand was cheaper - but I think I woulda been sorry not to spend the extra. I particularly like the shape they came up with so water won't stand on it and rust out the top.
    mike


  6. #6
    Epic Contributor Bird's Avatar
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    Default Re: woods 60 vs. 600?

    <font color=blue>It's got "warped washers" (my term) and the salesman wasn't sure how it adjusted. I guess we'll find out.</font color=blue>

    Be sure and let us know just what those washers are, whether they required adjusting, etc. I really hadn't thought about it before, but I can imagine how that could be an improvement. I work on automotive air tools and a lot of air ratchets have either a "wave washer" or a "spring washer" (concave washer) that provides the head tension. I can see how that, on a much larger scale, might be a good design for a slip clutch.

    Bird

  7. #7
    Veteran Member mikim's Avatar
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    Paige Texas
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    NH TC45

    Default Re: woods 60 vs. 600?

    Yes Sir - I'll let ya know - I certainly want to know as much as I can about it and I'll pass along whatever I find out. One of the things I'm concerned about is how rust will affect the slippage as it is all metal. btw - if you don't mind - this is off subject - I'm just starting my air tool collection. Any product recommendations or warnings you could give would be appreciated. thanks
    mike


  8. #8
    Epic Contributor Bird's Avatar
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    Default Re: woods 60 vs. 600?

    <font color=blue>I'm just starting my air tool collection. Any product recommendations or warnings you could give would be appreciated</font color=blue>

    Mike, that might be like trying to tell you which tractor to buy without knowing what you're going to do with it. But I'll try to list a few basics.

    Almost any of the air tools will do what they were designed to do. And nearly all my business is the result of:
    1. running too high air pressure. Nearly all the air tools are designed and rated for 90 psi, but a lot of shops run 175 psi; more power and more wear.
    2. moisture in the air lines. Condensation forms in the compressor and it should be bled off frequently and/or a drier/filter should be used on the air lines. Moisture in the tool results in rust.
    3. dirt getting into the tools. Nearly everyone uses quick couplers and when the tool is disconnected, if it, or the end of the air hose, is dropped in dust, dirt, and debris, it gets into the tool and you get the same wear in the cylinder that you would get running your car or tractor without an air filter.
    4. lack of lubrication. They're nearly all labelled to "oil daily" with air tool oil through the air intake. I'm afraid not many people do that; those who do usually give it a shot of oil before use, but giving it a shot of oil at the end of the day will help blow any moisture out and prevent rust. Many of the impact wrenches also have an oil plug on the side or towards the front to add oil for the impact assembly; non-detergent 20W or 30W motor oil is the recommended oil. Very few people ever check that oil. If they're not designed for motor oil in the impact assembly, then they probably have a grease fitting (looks like a dimple in the rear or side of the tool - or on the reverse knob on some ratchets and requires a needle nosed grease gun - needs greasing about once a month in daily use, but actually is seldom done).
    5. using ratchets for a "breaker bar". People break or wear out ratchets using them to break loose or tighten bolts beyond what the air ratcheting mechanism can do.

    As for which brands: Nearly any of them. Look at the torque rating. Many that look alike may be far different in performance. Example: A Chicago Pneumatic CP734, half inch impact, is rated for 425 ft./lbs. There are lots of cheap "clones" available and they work well; but only rated for about 250 ft./lbs. How much torque do you need? Professional mechanics who use their tools all day every day usually buy name brand, expensive tools (Snap-on, MAC, Matco, Chicago Pneumatic, Sioux, etc.). Parts are available and the tools can be rebuilt. Individuals who use their tools occasionally are probably just as well off to buy cheaper ones, if the torque rating is sufficient for their use (Campbell Hausfeld, Central Pneumatic, and dozens of others).

    Personally, I'm partial to Ingersoll Rand products, closely followed by Chicago Pneumatic (and many of the MAC and Matco tools are made by one of those, especially Ingersoll Rand). Parts are readily available and the price of the parts isn't too bad - of course if they're used properly they'll probably last a lifetime without needing parts. Snap-on makes good tools; no better, no worse than the others, but they're expensive and so are the parts.

    Whew, probably telling you more than you wanted to know, but you can send me a private message or private e-mail if you have any specific questions about particular models.

    Bird

  9. #9
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    Default Yes rust will effect it !!

    i have the same type of slip clutch on my HD Bush Hog post hole auger. They say to reset the clutch every year before use. Mine is always inside,and the clutch shows rust every spring. My neighbor borrowed it last spring,but did not have time to let me re-adjust the clutch,said he would do it. Well he did not,get around to before he used it.Auger hit root,and stopped dead,clutch did not ratchet,snuffed 81hp tractor,took out pto gears,and hyd pto clutch(but did not hurt auger).Moral of story:Set up clutch so it slips before use!!! It's why it is there in the 1st place!!!!


  10. #10
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    Default Re: Yes rust will effect it !!

    On the subject of Woods rotary cutters (and rust), I've got a question concerning a Woods model M60-4. The blades need to be replaced but I'm having a tough time getting the blade pins out. Penetrating oil has been applied and I've got both pins in a full nelson using large "C" clamps like a poor boys hydraulic press but the pins are still resisting. Does anyone know if the pins, on this model, are pressed into the crossbar?? Thanks.

    Russ


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