Box Scraper Box blades

[dg281]

Hello. I have a Kubota BX 1850 (18 hp) and am looking at box blades. I'm looking at getting a 5ft box blade. Approx weight is around 400lbs. Does anyone have experience with a 5 footer on a small tractor like this? Will it handle it? Thanks for any input.

 

[bcp]

It will probably do OK grading a driveway or clearing snow, but digging and getting the box full of dirt may be too much. (Based on my BX2360 with a 300# 4ft box blade)

Bruce

 

[/pine]

A lot of folks will say to get the heaviest BB that the tractor will handle...and I agree to an extent...but there's always an exception and when it comes to box blades the exception is experience and time...depending on the type of earth/gravel etc. being worked...a lighter bb can do the same thing as a heavier blade...it just takes longer and possibly more scarifier work...

Extra weight is most important when "cutting" (shortened top link)...

I have a 17 HP B series and I have a 5' Bush hog brand (CX60) box blade...I don't think it weighs 300#'s but I do add a length of rail steel that adds about 80#'s...I have loaded rears and have no problem pulling (or pushing) a full box of earth or gravel...

A bit more "input" than you might want to hear...but honestly if you really want to master a box blade (amaze yourself on a regular basis) hydraulic top and tilt is paramount...IMO...without T&T the learning curve for a box blade is as steep as they come...

For instance...watch an operator work a bb with T&T on anything but a perfectly flat surface...the operator will constantly make minor adjustments to the blade...now imagine stopping the tractor, climbing off the tractor make an adjustment climb back on the tractor and continue a few yards repeat...IMO the frustration of trying to use a bb without T&T is the main reason you will often hear dislike for them...

Mastering a box blade is like being able to catch a fly with chop sticks...once achieved you can do anything...!

Good Luck...

 

[nybirdman]

I would think a 5ft.box blade would be too much for a BX.Four foot would probably be fine.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I used a Woods HB 60 on my 28 HP 3300# New Holland 1720. That blade was around 540# and with a floating blade would work my tractor pretty good. With ag tires and the front axle engaged it did fine. Your B would struggle with that type of blade. I would think a light 5 footer with stationary blade would be OK but if loaded your B will tend to spin. A 4 footer IMHO is a better option.

 

[jeff9366]

Rather than pay for repeat weight, I suggest you use your FEL bucket as basis for grading/moving dirt.

You will find a Ratchet Rake AT LEAST as effective on your BX:

6/09/2016

I own both a Ratchet Rake and a Rollover Box Blade.

This post concerns Ratchet Rakes Vs. light Box Blades, such as the 60" Land Pride BB1260/346 pounds/69 pounds per foot.

I searched for the weight of kubota L3301 bucket but could not find a number. I presume L3301 bucket weighs approximately 240 pounds, extrapolating from other kubota specs. 68" Ratchet Rake weighs 88 pounds. Adding 240 + 88 = 328 pounds, pretty close to 346 pounds of BB1260 Box Blade.

In addition, the (operator controlled) weight of the FEL frame bears on the Ratchet Rake. ((Likewise, weight of the Three Point Hitch bears on mounted Box Blade.)) FEL frames weigh much more than ( 3X? 4X?) Three Point Hitch components. So, including some FEL weight, I guesstimate that ground contact pressure on Ratchet Rake and BB1260 would be at least equal, perhaps greater pressure on the Ratchet Rake.

Further in Ratchet Rake's favor you have articulation of bucket/RR combination in two planes from the operator's station and 1-1/2" serrated teeth on the Ratchet Rake.

Box Blade can be raised and lowered hydraulically from the operator's station. Box Blade angle of attack is adjustable via the Three Point Hitch Top Link, but not from the operator's station. Standard Box Blade does not have rippers, standard is a smooth cutting edge.

Ratchet Rake is excellent tearing up sod with its serrated teeth, the initial operation in much grading. The Ratchet Rake will not pull as large a load as a Box Blade but it may pull 35% of capacity of BB1260 per pass, with faster cycles. Ratchet Rake is more intuitive in operation than a Box Blade, which requires considerable experience to operate efficiently.

This is why I feel the Ratchet Rake is superior to light Box Blades for LIGHT grading.

This is a novel assessment of the Ratchet Rake. Subject to revision and modification.

When I have heavy grading to do, I mount my 60"/625 pound (125 pounds per foot) Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade on the tractor's Three Point Hitch AND the Ratchet Rake on my FEL bucket.

VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube

 

[jeff9366]

The key metric for Box Blades is weight per unit of width.

The TBN consensus among actual Box Blade users is effectiveness commences at 100 pounds per foot of width. One hundred twenty-five pounds per foot of width is better. Industrial/construction Box Blades begin at 200 pounds per foot of width.

Not total weight, weight per unit of width. The most effective Box Blades are a slight amount wider than rear tires and as heavy as feasible. That is also your toughest, most reliable Box Blade.

 

[jeff9366]

A bit more "input" than you might want to hear...but honestly if you really want to master a box blade (amaze yourself on a regular basis) hydraulic top and tilt is paramount...IMO...without T&T the learning curve for a box blade is as steep as they come...

For instance...watch an operator work a bb with T&T on anything but a perfectly flat surface...the operator will constantly make minor adjustments to the blade...now imagine stopping the tractor, climbing off the tractor make an adjustment climb back on the tractor and continue a few yards repeat...IMO the frustration of trying to use a bb without T&T is the main reason you will often hear dislike for them...

I agree with /PINE, with a three caveats.

A Rollover Box Blade is easier to use and easier to master than a "standard" Box Blade. Unfortunately, Rollovers cost more than standard Box Blades as they are heavier. Rollovers were engineered before T&T became commercially available and probably (?) before subcompact tractors entered the market.

While NOT equal to T&T, and not inexpensive itself, a $249 HydrauLink Top Link shortens the learning curve for all Box Blades.

Moldboard Plows have a steeper learning curves than Box Blades. The more "bottoms", the more difficult to operate well.


VIDEO: HydrauLink Category 1 Cylinder - For 45 HP Tractors or Less, Model# HL-11 - YouTube

 

[jenkinsph]

I would recommend the 4' box blade for an 18 hp tractor. A 5' would be too much for it.

 

[davrow]

jeff9366, what were you lifting that tweaked your bucket lip like that at the left bucket hook?