Why doesn't my quick attach line up?

[Pixguy]

OK, I bought a saltdogg sand /salt spreader that instead of putting it on my F-150 truck, I've decided to put it the 3pt. hitch. I ordered a 3pt. hitch receiver and a 3pt. quick attachment so that I can blade the gravel road and quickly throw on the spreader. Both are supposed to be cat1.

So as you can see from the pictures, the top hook doesn't line up with the top pin. I can't lower the hook or it won't fit in the area to hook the pin. What is wrong or did I screw up somewhere? Can the hook be cut? Sure but it'll weaken the strength.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

I'd modify the top link bracket before I'd consider modifying the hook. Maybe just cut some off the edge so it goes in further.

 

[s219]

Implements have to be quick-hitch compatible to work. Not all of them are. Doesn't look like that receiver frame is.

 

[KennyG]

You've fallen victim to the incomplete quick hitch standard. The standard specifies the pin size and spacing but not the geometry of the hook and frame. Your receiver would be compatible with something like the original John Deere I-Match with the fixed hook because it sticks out farther. I would probably drill a hole to match the hook location. The top hook won't pick up appreciable load, so that shouldn't be a problem. An alternative would be a top link like this:

Top Hitch Adapter-Quick Hitch | Agri Supply #61369

You can remove the hook and use this for any implement that doesn't match the hook spacing.

 

[aeblank]

Your receiver would be compatible with something like the original John Deere I-Match with the fixed hook because it sticks out farther.

I disagree! It isn't open access from the bottom (from what I can tell), which makes it flat out non-quick-hitch-compatible. Some weld-on tabs would make it usable, that adapter would make it usable, or return/sell it and get a QH compatible one.

 

[Fallon]

I've had 3 QHs from 2 different manufacturers & all were like this. It's a very common problem.

I ended up pulling off the hook welding on a 1.5-2" extension on the back & re-writing the holes so the hook stuck out further on all of em. There are several threads on here about that mod. Lots also replace the bolts with hitch pins for easier adjustment if needed.

Used 1 in the 3pt, welded the 2nd to a SSQA plate to mount my snow plow to (great for picking up & working on implements with the loader too) & the 3rd I picked up for a friend.

Just ordered another Harbor Freight QH for my new L4060hstc as the first 2 ran off with my old L3200 when it sold. I expect I'll be doing more welding. But at $80 it's a better deal than a $300+ iMatch or LandPride that probably has the same issues. All the cheap ones are the same quality if not out of the same factory.

 

[George2615]

Agree to either weld on tabs and drill a new hole to make it usable or return it and get a QH compatible.
It may be a little thin but you might have room to just drill another hole for the top link pin.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I'm surprised no one mentioned this so I guess I could be wrong but...

Every cat1 QH I've seen requires lift pin bushings to convert the cat1 to cat3 size:

http://m.northerntool.com/products/...8sOw9Qivze8b0iueYksW7v19lPvwg43troaAjpS8P8HAQ

The increase pin radius will likely raise the top link pin enough.

I really think I'm right here.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Nevermind I reread your OP and retract my previous comment. :drink:

 

[orangeandgreen]

There is a thread on here about welding an extension to the back of the hook and drilling 2 new holes in it..
Another option is an adapter in place of the hook, this is what I use since all my attachments aren't QH compatable.

Top Hitch Adapter-Quick Hitch | Agri Supply #61369