Snow Blade Quick attach hydraulic snow blade temp modification

[Retired LE]

I recently purchased a quick attach mounted snow blade for the front of my tractor with hydraulic angle capability.

I will eventually run a hydraulic circuit to the front of the loader so that I can plug in the quick disconnects to allow for angle adjustment from the seat - but in the meantime I want to rig something up so I can lock the blade hydraulically in a set position.

I am thinking of installing a control valve in between the two hydraulic hoses on the blade's single hydraulic angle control cylinder.

Has anyone done this and if so, what components were utilized?

I know that you can't simply install a valve to block flow without having some way to release pressure should the blade strike something. If that were the case I would use a simple 90 degree water shutoff style valve available at the local hardware store and add quick disconnect fittings compatible with the plow hydraulic hose attachments.

Any ideas suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks for reading.

 

[Stonehaller]

Do not use hardware store or big box water valves in hydraulic systems as they are not rated for the pressure. Do not use black or galvanized pipe from the hardware store either in the pressure side of hydraulic circuits either. Get high pressure fittings and hoses. You want a double relief also known as cross over relief or cushion valve to protect the system from overload. Use a ball valve rated for the peak pressure of the relief valve on the opposite side of the cross over relief from the cylinders. Open the ball valve to angle the blade by hand and close the valve to hold in place. The cross over relief will bleed oil from one cylinder to the other if pressure in the cylinder exceeds the relief setting. You can use the cross over relief when you eventually connect the plow angle to the tractor hydraulics.

Cross over relief:
1/2 NPT 3 GPM 15-3 PSI HYD CUSHION VALVE

7250 psi ball valve:
1/2" NPT CARBON STEEL 725 PSI BALL VALVE

 

[RNeumann]

Most SSQA blades with angle have the hydraulics as an add on. Without the add on their are pin holes at a few angles. If that's an option just take the 2 cylinders off and pin it in position. You can also adjust the angle manually but fairly easily.

Stonehaller is correct and the parts purchased now will be uses when you add the third function or rear remote anyway...except the ball valve.

 

[LD1]

Not sure I understand you correctly, but if I do....it wont work.

If I understand, you are wanting to hook the two cylinder hoses to EACH OTHER, and nothing tied to tractor hydraulics? is this correct? And a single Double acting cylinder?

What do you think hooking the two cylinder hoses to each other with a valve is going to accomplish?

Oh, and the above linked crossover valve wont work on a double acting cylinder

 

[Retired LE]

Thank you for the detailed reply AND the links. Only question I have is how to install the cross over relief valve. Would I need to have a second line that bypasses the ball valve and allows pressure to travel from one side of the cylinder to the other in the event of an over-pressure situation? See rough drawing below.

 

[Retired LE]

Not sure I understand you correctly, but if I do....it wont work.

If I understand, you are wanting to hook the two cylinder hoses to EACH OTHER, and nothing tied to tractor hydraulics? is this correct? And a single Double acting cylinder?

What do you think hooking the two cylinder hoses to each other with a valve is going to accomplish?

Oh, and the above linked crossover valve wont work on a double acting cylinder

That is correct. At this point I just want to hook the two hoses together for a closed circuit. I want to install a valve in between the hoses to prevent movement of the cylinder but I want to be able to adjust the blade. So I thought a valve would do the job. But I also know you have to have some way to relieve pressure should the blade edge strike something solid to prevent blowing a hose or blowing the seals in the cylinder.

 

[RNeumann]

The pillow valve is for double hydraulic cylinders. Most plows have 2 for that reason. If you don't have 2 cylinders you will need to skip that device (without a more involved install) and hope your trip springs trip before something blows!

 

[LD1]

It is not gonna work. You need a plow with a pair of cylinders (either a pair of single acting or even a pair of double acting cylinders ) for this to work.

Its not a simple matter of letting fluid go from one side of the cylinder to the other. The volumes are different. How do you account for the space occupied by the cylinder rod entering the barrel of the cylinder?

 

[bcp]

How do the manually adjusted hydraulic top links work? Air in the system to make up the difference? Do it yourself version possible for this plow?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200512264_200512264

Bruce

 

[Retired LE]

It is not gonna work. You need a plow with a pair of cylinders (either a pair of single acting or even a pair of double acting cylinders ) for this to work.

Its not a simple matter of letting fluid go from one side of the cylinder to the other. The volumes are different. How do you account for the space occupied by the cylinder rod entering the barrel of the cylinder?

I would assume the cylinder on the plow is double acting since it operates to angle the plow left or right. If it was single acting, there would be a spring or other gizmo on it to retract or extend it when pressure is released. Sort of like a hydraulic jack or an engine cherry picker. It only powers one way (up) and retracts via gravity and weight.

The two hydraulic hoses on it current have a male quick disconnect on one end and a female quick disconnect on the other to facilitate hooking up to the tractor hydraulics.