Box Scraper Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road

[olPete]

Landplane,,, there is no other answer,,, especially not a box blade,, in my opinion,,,

I had a box blade for 25 years before I built the landplane.

Looks like what I need in my collection, do you have any design pointers/tweaks/suggestions? How far off the deck is the first and last crosspiece? Ive got a back blade that I'm bidding on right now, hope to get it for $450kiwi and put it to use carving water courses to stop it going down the middle and scouring it out. Just an old manual 3way 6' blade but it'll do me!

 

[olPete]

Thanks

 

[Egon]

Hello neighbor. I am not a proficient box blade user, never got the knack of it and haven't yet figured out what to efficiently do when the box is full. Probably (as others will probably say a box blade works better with hyd top and tilt. What little back Blade work I have done I like the casting off to one side of the spoils so they can then be incorporated back into the fill. What I do know is; if you do not rip up the hard areas around pot holes, grade out and re-compact to match the adjacent material you will shortly have more pot holes. Best results for badly pot holed roads is to scarify the whole road , grade and re-compact end to end. Any place that has a soft spot will doon be a new pot hole as traffic beats the loose material out. In our rainy area; anyplace where water accumulates compaction is destroyed and new pot hole. So, grade to drain off one or both sides. 6" compacted crushed (not pit run) gravel compacted to 95+% makes the best long life rut and pot hole free roadway. The average home owners do not understand all this so private drives and roads become axle buster. A good road/driveway cost money to build and maintain. From a lifetime of construction and professional facility management.

Ron

Good advice.

I'd follow up a back blade on wheels. You should be able to tilt and angle it. Scarifier of some type is also a requirement.

The grading equipment should have the ability to make and move a windrow back and forth across the road. In this process materials are properly mixed and a continuous road grade with crown can be achieved. Any implement that can come close to duplicating the actions of a proper motor grader is desirable.

 

[RNeumann]

Doesn't every road have ditching, crown and camber? I see the value of the LP grading scraper (same as what is being referred to as a land plane here). It's just hard to imagine only having that one Implement. Seems that would be the second Implement after the box.

 

[TripleR]

None of our driveways or several miles of roads on our three farms have ditching, off hand I can think of only a few that do. Of those that do, many have serious erosion issues with clogged drains. I know it is common in some surrounding areas, but not mine.

 

[fried1765]

None of our driveways or several miles of roads on our three farms have ditching, off hand I can think of only a few that do. Of those that do, many have serious erosion issues with clogged drains. I know it is common in some surrounding areas, but not mine.

The three most important rules of real estate are: Location...Location...Location!
The three most important rules of roadways are: Ditching...Ditching...Ditching!

 

[Xfaxman]

Check these: Everything Attachments | Skid Steer Attachments, Tractor Attachments, 3 Point Hitch Attachments, and Farm Tractor Implements.

And this one: Land Leveler Land Plane Land Grader Scarifier Shanks for Compact tractors by Land Shark Attachments

 

[Gordon Gould]

Land Plane Grading scraper at work in various road materials. The blade cuts and fills with the material flowing over the top of the blades it remixes. I do have a rear blade also but I hardly ever use it any more. Once the crown or pitch of the road is set you can maintain it with the LPGS.

















gg

 

[TripleR]

The three most important rules of real estate are: Location...Location...Location!
The three most important rules of roadways are: Ditching...Ditching...Ditching!

Not here it ain't. In the flat lands many places where by rule ditching is required such as along all county roads, the ditches just fill up and cover the roadways. Two of our farms are in the hills and a new neighbor built his nice new house along with driveway and ditches on both sides. Before the house was finished his washouts were 5-5' deep an he's spent a fortune fixing it, hauling gravel an three years later, he still has to take a back hoe down to repair his plugged culvert and county road that inevitable washes out due to the now redirected water flow.

It was settled by immigrants with many farms being Century Farms and people do what works best which in many case do not include ditches in driveways and field roads.

 

[olPete]

You guys get some unreal results, thats for sure! Thanks for the links and pictures.
I am trying to not hijack this thread, but my issues are the same as the OP
How deep are you going with the scarifiers to get those potholes out? Agreed, you can't just fill them in and pretend they'll go away. Is it just deep enough to generate plenty of loose material or do you go below the depth of the holes if you can? And do you roll or do a pass with something to compact it afterwards, or let the vehicles roll it down?
Must say even the road graders in the district don't get results that you guys do.