Planting grass

   / Planting grass #1  

Michael Aos

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2017
Messages
437
Location
Colorado Springs
Tractor
Kubota BX2370-1 RTV500
I got a 22,140 square foot (123' wide x 180' deep) lot w/2 small houses on it, and a nearby 7382 square foot (70' wide x 105' deep) lot with 1 small house on it.

Planning to plant some grass seed in the backyard in a chunk that's about 93' wide x 50' deep (~4650 square feet). If that goes well, I may do another ~5000 (123' wide by 40' deep) square feet out front and ~2500 square feet at the other site. Also a some touch-up in a couple other spots and 1-2x ~100 square foot gardens. I do have a little electric tiller that's good-enough for the gardens.

I've got a 2016 Kubota BX2370-1. I've been planning on getting the tires filled, add wheel weights, and purchasing a Land Pride BB1248 box blade.

I've been reading about planting a lawn and the articles tend to recommend a rotary tiller.

So... assuming I can't rent a 3pt hitch tiller for the BX2370, I was thinking...

Is it likely I could get something roughly equivalent to tilling by just using the BB1248 box blade on the BX2370?

Would it be significantly better (better results planting a new lawn) to purchase something like the Land Pride RTR542? I plan to purchase some good dirt and work it into the existing dead sod.

Just to complicate things -- since I'm in the initial cleanup phase of repairing the "deferred maintenance" of these properties, I've been wondering if maybe I should have gone larger than the BX2370. Maybe a B2601, or B2650.

I might be able to bundle similar implements for a discount and do a 0% deal on a larger tractor. The larger (and heavier) stuff would be great for this project, but I'm not sure how much they'd really be required to maintain everything once this initial work is done.
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   / Planting grass #2  
A larger tractor will only speed up the process so that's up to you. I'd go for a 3pt tiller to work up the ground then use a harrow drag to smooth and level the area. You may want to think about holding off on the loaded tires until after the job is done to reduce ruts left in the soft soil. However, if you are going to move a lot of dirt with the loader then get them filled for extra ballast.
 
   / Planting grass #3  
What is growing on the existing lots.
Perennial weeds can be multiplied by rototiller. You want to kill them first
Do the lots require much grading
 
   / Planting grass
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Last year it was pretty much all weeds across more than 1/2 of it. The rest is new fill dirt about a foot deep.

Nothing growing yet this year.

I wouldn't say a LOT of grading, but I've added about 15 yards of fill dirt to address a negative-grade issue and have been trying to smooth everything out by back-dragging the bucket on the BX2370.

Thinking grass from slab to slab, and out to the red shed, then as far back as the disturbed dirt on the right (about 1/2 way back).

IMG_3516.jpeg

What is growing on the existing lots.
Perennial weeds can be multiplied by rototiller. You want to kill them first
Do the lots require much grading
 
   / Planting grass #5  
Last year it was pretty much all weeds across more than 1/2 of it. The rest is new fill dirt about a foot deep.

Nothing growing yet this year.

I wouldn't say a LOT of grading, but I've added about 15 yards of fill dirt to address a negative-grade issue and have been trying to smooth everything out by back-dragging the bucket on the BX2370.

Thinking grass from slab to slab, and out to the red shed, then as far back as the disturbed dirt on the right (about 1/2 way back).

View attachment 505100
Use box blade for final grading.
I would skip rototiling
Seed and mulch the area
 
   / Planting grass #6  
I rented a pulverizer with a gear box connected to the roller (not a harley rake) you do not need a rear remote for this attachment. I did a half acre in my front yard around my garden. It worked like a champ. All I had to do after running the pulverizer over it and leveling everything out was throw the fertilizer, seed, and straw to it. I have a rotary tiller and it will do the job but nowhere as good as that pulverizer I rented. It cost $ 180.00 for the weekend. I would also consider waiting until September to plant your grass. The fall and winter will give it time to really set roots well. If you plant now with summer soon coming your grass seed might not take root as well and die off.
 
   / Planting grass
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I'm definitely not opposed to renting something -vs- spending ~$2K on a rotary tiller that may not see much use going forward.
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   / Planting grass
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Thanks. I did not know there was such a thing.

I shot an email off to Everything Attachments to see if they had anything sized for a BX2370.

The local landscape supply has this recommendation:

When installing a New Lawn:

Use 3 to 4 yards (approx. 1" to 1 1/3" deep) of Cow or Cow & Silva Peat per 1000 sq.ft. and rototill into existing soil. If more water retention is desired, use 5 to 15# of Polymer Crystals per 1000 sq.ft. and till in with your manure.
Order of installation when preparing a new yard around your home:
1. Pre level for drainage and contour. Terraces should be done at this time.
2. Put down your manure and polymers in areas of sod, flowers and gardens.
3. Rototill 6" deep going over all areas twice.
4. Water - to fill soil with moisture - let dry out enough to re-level.
5. Level to a rough grade.
6. Install sprinkler system.
7. Install edging.
8. Install trees, shrubs and plants.
9. Install mulch - either rock or wood.
10. Re-level to fine grade
11. Fertilize with New Lawn Starter or 20-20-10 and Soil Activator
12. Sod or Seed.
13. If seeding, cover seed with Cow & Peat at a rate of 1 yard per 1,000 sq.ft.
(1/4inch)
14. Water-Water-Water! Seed needs light water 5 to 6 times a day just to
keep moist.
No deep watering while germinating seed. (Approximately 10 days)

pulverizer
 
   / Planting grass #9  
I would make sure the grading work is done first. When it rains you can see how the grading worked out and see if you need to do anything else.

You will get better results if you plant the grass in late August before the rains begin in your locale. Starting the grass seed now without a sprinkler system would be difficult, and you may wind up with 90% weeds and 10% grass.

Starting new seeds in the southwest requires light watering several times a day. I usually water every 4 to 6 hours about 10 minutes to keep the surface moist. No need to go deeper than the seeds are planted.
 
   / Planting grass #10  
Something else I would suggest is spend a little more time to find someone with an existing tractor and rototiller to do that job for you. I think that would be better than buying one for a one off project. That would be less than a days work for me to till and prep for seeding. Don't see how buying implements is practical for you.
 
 
 
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