new box blade user with some questions

[markhait]

Hi everyone! I'm a total newbie with all this tractor stuff. I bought a used JD 2305 to help maintain our gravel road that is shared by 4 homes and one business (horse farm). The tractor came with a FEL, a mid mower and a box blade. Our gravel road has been plagued with pot holes ever since moving here 14 years ago. Originally the owners of the horse farm would "keep" up the road, but they always did a very half *** job.
Fast forward 14 years and we have decided to take care of the road ourselves. Myself and one other neighbor have tractors, both with box blades. The other tractor is at one end of the road and I'm at the other end. I do from my driveway to the county road and he does from his driveway to my driveway. I've been doing pretty good with the box blade even though I am brand new at it. I watched a TON of You Tube videos to get an idea and then I had at it.
My first try at grading went good I think. I dug out all the pot holes along with the rest of the road with the scarifier's and then went back over it with the rear blade of the box blade angled back to smooth it all out. I was very pleased with the results. I need to put a crown on the road next as it is flat and the water pools in a couple areas by the county road.

We've had a ton of rain over the past couple weeks and some small pot holes started showing up. I wanted to get moving on it before they became big pot holes. I basically did exactly what I did before, (although it was much easier because I had already ripped up the road only a month earlier!) but this time I'm not too happy with the results. It actually came out the same as the first time, but I was hoping for a slightly better result. Down by the county road, there are two areas that are lower than the rest of the road. Not by a lot, but visually you can see that these areas are lower....guessing 6-8" lower. When I would move material into these areas, it seemed like I would remove that same material when I would try to level it out. I had the box blade angled back with the scarifier's all up. It seemed like all I was doing was filling the box blade back up with the material that I just put down. At times, I could see the box filling up and then when I'd get to a pot hole, then it would get deposited into that pot hole. The two low spots that I'm talking about are pretty large areas....definitely not pot holes! Probably around 8' x 10'. Am I supposed to just raise the box blade up to approximately the height that I want and then drag the material and the keep doing that until this area is about filled? I was looking at buying either a land plane or maybe a chain harrow if those would do the trick, but I'd rather not if the box blade can do it.
If I need to practice a bunch more, I'm fine with that, but first I need to know what I'm doing wrong so that I can try to correct it.

I've tried to look for any You Tube videos about this, but didn't find any. Also, does a JD 2305 rear 3 pt float? The box blade is only 4' and when I lowered it all the way to the ground and turned the hydraulic bleed all the way open, I thought I should be able to lift it by hand....even if ever so slightly, but she didn't even budge! The manual was useless and I couldn't find anything on-line either. When you lower the 3 pt, the handle is all the way down. If you begin to move the handle up a little, there is a slight "click" and then if you move it past this "click", you'll begin to raise the 3 pt....what's that all about? Once again, the manual was useless!

Please help!

 

[Texasmark]

Hi everyone! I'm a total newbie with all this tractor stuff. I bought a used JD 2305 to help maintain our gravel road that is shared by 4 homes and one business (horse farm). The tractor came with a FEL, a mid mower and a box blade. Our gravel road has been plagued with pot holes ever since moving here 14 years ago. Originally the owners of the horse farm would "keep" up the road, but they always did a very half *** job.
Fast forward 14 years and we have decided to take care of the road ourselves. Myself and one other neighbor have tractors, both with box blades. The other tractor is at one end of the road and I'm at the other end. I do from my driveway to the county road and he does from his driveway to my driveway. I've been doing pretty good with the box blade even though I am brand new at it. I watched a TON of You Tube videos to get an idea and then I had at it.
My first try at grading went good I think. I dug out all the pot holes along with the rest of the road with the scarifier's and then went back over it with the rear blade of the box blade angled back to smooth it all out. I was very pleased with the results. I need to put a crown on the road next as it is flat and the water pools in a couple areas by the county road.

We've had a ton of rain over the past couple weeks and some small pot holes started showing up. I wanted to get moving on it before they became big pot holes. I basically did exactly what I did before, (although it was much easier because I had already ripped up the road only a month earlier!) but this time I'm not too happy with the results. It actually came out the same as the first time, but I was hoping for a slightly better result. Down by the county road, there are two areas that are lower than the rest of the road. Not by a lot, but visually you can see that these areas are lower....guessing 6-8" lower. When I would move material into these areas, it seemed like I would remove that same material when I would try to level it out. I had the box blade angled back with the scarifier's all up. It seemed like all I was doing was filling the box blade back up with the material that I just put down. At times, I could see the box filling up and then when I'd get to a pot hole, then it would get deposited into that pot hole. The two low spots that I'm talking about are pretty large areas....definitely not pot holes! Probably around 8' x 10'. Am I supposed to just raise the box blade up to approximately the height that I want and then drag the material and the keep doing that until this area is about filled? I was looking at buying either a land plane or maybe a chain harrow if those would do the trick, but I'd rather not if the box blade can do it.
If I need to practice a bunch more, I'm fine with that, but first I need to know what I'm doing wrong so that I can try to correct it.

I've tried to look for any You Tube videos about this, but didn't find any. Also, does a JD 2305 rear 3 pt float? The box blade is only 4' and when I lowered it all the way to the ground and turned the hydraulic bleed all the way open, I thought I should be able to lift it by hand....even if ever so slightly, but she didn't even budge! The manual was useless and I couldn't find anything on-line either. When you lower the 3 pt, the handle is all the way down. If you begin to move the handle up a little, there is a slight "click" and then if you move it past this "click", you'll begin to raise the 3 pt....what's that all about? Once again, the manual was useless!

Please help!

Ever watch a road maintainer (grader) grade a gravel road. You need a different implement for that, just a regular 3 pt blade, and adjust your 3 pt to cause the blade to slope upwards toward the crown of the road, and set in about a 20 degree angle back slope for the high side. Move the side of the road material to the top and you will have your grade. I box is not made for that.

 

[ericm979]

The bleed valve controls only the lowering speed. The arms float upwards. Try it with the implement off. A 4' box blade weighs over 300 lbs and the arms also add mass.

Tipping it back makes the front blade dig in more.

 

[boggen]

motor grader, examples can be found at machinerytrader.com

motor graders = the blade sets a long distance between the wheels of the machine. the longer this distance, the less in change of grade will happen once you go over the road a couple times pending on how much material needs to be moved.

a 3pt hitch rear blade, is basically same blade on a motor grader. but the "distance" is not there. and generally there are no "gauge wheels" or like sticking out further back behind the blade. poor mans motor grader. but for most folks a 3pt hitch rear blade is good enough.

a 3pt hitch grader scraper / land plane. is more of a "sifting device" were it allows larger rocks to come to the surface, and lets the smaller rocks and dirt go down.

Tractor Attachments And Skid Steer Attachments For Any Tractor Or Skid Steer = good spot for newbies to check out various implements in how to set them up and use them.

drag harrow, chain drag harrown, chain link fence, H or I piece of steel, chunk of telephone pole, these all have been used to "smooth" things out.

TNT (top and tilt) for 3pt hitch. = replace top link turnbuckle and/or 1 or both side link turnbuckles with a hydraulic cylinder. a TNT setup will let you on the fly from seat of tractor adjust 3pt hitch hydraulically, so you can fine tune everything nice and quickly.

a 3pt hitch does not offer "down pressure" the only pressure holding an implement down is the weight of the implement itself. and your only real control without TNT, is by purely controlling the raising and lowering of the 3pt hitch. and then your manual adjustments of the turn buckles on the 3pt hitch.

==========
i would advise making sure you have your "check chains" and your sway bar/chains for the 3pt hitch.

=======
to note it. 3pt hitches are awesome at pulling stuff, all day long non stop.
BUT if you have an implement draging on the ground or digging into the ground. and you go to turn, you can bend up the 3pt hitch.
ALSO if you go in reverse with 3pt hitch implement in the ground, you can also mess up your 3pt hitch.

while 3pt hitches are strong and can take a beating. you need to make judgment calls along the way. when turning and how much you turn and/or going in reverse.

=======
with everything above said... google...
forestry roads

there is 5 or so descent sites out there, that cover different grades, crowning of roads, ditches, culverts, and like that most folks can directly apply to their dirt and/or gravel driveways, and roads throughout there property.

========
NOTE: there is "to dry" and "to wet"

to wet is easy, you making ruts and making pot holes.
to dry is easy, road is like concrete and everything is skip hoping across the road.

a good rain will make road wet. but as it drys out you got a chance to get out there to reshape the driveway/road. generally atleast for me. i am making an "impression" with my tires on the dirt road. i am not making ruts. but the dirt / gravel is physically moving some. this is time i normally like to deal with dirt/gravel. no dust storms, all implements tend to dig in easily. and i can move a lot of dirt/gravel easily.

the issue with above is "it is still to wet" for like finishing touches. but it is a good time, to load up as much weight as you can. and go 1 tire width at a time, and drive up and down the road, compacting everything. and then go back over it at a different angle to compact it a bit more 1 tire width at a time. you need a couple or more angles of attack in compacting. so the soil and rocks all begin interlocking together and in essence forming a solid hard pan on the surface of the road.

when the road drys out a bit more. it is more time for finishing touches.

NOTE: the compacting thing, may require doing it a couple times, (waiting for it to rain and drying out some then 1 tire width at a time at different angles). for a good solid compaction to happen. but until this happens. folks need to "slow it down" and try to stay off of it as much as possible when it is to wet, and making any sort of ruts.
other words. you do not have the huge heavy machinery county and state department of transportation has. so you nickle and dime it. and that is the compaction thing doing 1 tire width at a time.

 

[jenkinsph]

I think you will find a land plane grader scraper(lpgs) will help with this road smoothing a lot. I built a 4' that would be just right for a 2305 pictured below.

Cutting out the pot holes with your box blade helps but without position control on the three point hitch it can be difficult to get much done with a box blade. A lpgs is more forgiving and is easier to use with the 2305.

Since you have a fel for added weight and traction I would recommend you get a 6' rear blade for crowning the road and pulling the materials back to the center of the road. This may take quite a few passes with a small tractor to accomplish but those pot holes will keep coming back if the road isn't properly shaped and crowned. Standing water is the enemy.

 

[Deere Dude]

If I had a larger amount of gravel to grade I would find a landplane. I never used one but many on here swear by them and videos show they work effortlessly and do a great job. I have a 6' box blade but could never really fine tune my driveway with it...I end up coming back to my regular blade for the finishing.

I have a center blade for a JD garden tractor and was going to hook it to my 1720 but figure I would just trash it with the larger tractor, but they work pretty well.

 

[gunner76]

Boggen has some good advice. I've been grading roads for the last 8 months and while I'm far from an expert(I don't think anyone ever gets to expert grader status)I know the basics. Your box blade will not fix your roads issues, only provide a temporary band aid. Heck, using a Motor Grader isn't a permanent fix, but it will last longer than what you can do with your setup. You need to be able to make multiple adjustments on the fly which isn't possible with a three point setup.

What you need to do is totally cut out the potholes, if you still see a faint trace of them they will come back fast. The same goes for washboards if you get them. The best time to work a road is to wait until it rains, then let the road sit for at least a half day(just depends on how much rain you get). You want it to have some moisture but not be too wet. If the road is really dry don't waste your time, all you're doing is making it look pretty on top by having loose material but all the imperfections will still be underneath.

The low spot needs to be built back up with fresh material. Don't pull stuff from the other areas unless you're sure you have enough material to do so, otherwise you could end up getting down to the base. Best thing would be to have a some gravel(or road stone if the area washes out easily)dumped on the low spot. Feather it out over the low spot and get it smooth on top then wheel pack it in. Let it go for awhile and see how it turns out. Keep repeating this until the spot is built back up. I've been told the best time to do this is right before a rain because the moisture will help bond the new and old material together.

Getting a crown on the road is a must to shed water. We have all our gravel roads set up with anywhere between a 4%-6% slope. IMO 4% is about perfect, 6% is starting to get to be too much and you can feel the machine lean which causes people to drive on the centerline which then ends up causing your road to be shaped like a W. If you don't get a lot of rain you could get by with a 2% slope.

Maybe the best thing to do would be to get everyone that lives on the road to pitch in some money and hire someone with a Motor Grader to come by once a month to maintain the road.

 

[markhait]

Thanks everyone for your help! I'm probably making this out to be much worse than it really is. If you could have seen our road before I started to work on it, you might even say that I'm a wizard! It's that much better. Knowing what I know now, I always dig out the pot holes so that the stuff doesn't ooze out when someone drives over it, but I'm just being **** now I guess and want perfection...or as close as I can get to it. I want to fill up these 2 low spots and then I guess I'll be content....maybe I have the money to buy 1 implement. I could buy a land plane or a rear blade, but only one or the other. Which do you think would make my life easier? I know the rear blade would allow me to crown the road and pull the gravel off from the sides and back to the middle. It seems like the land plane would give me the smoothness that I want and make leveling the road almost a no brainer too. Actually, the road now with only my box blade is really smooth....I'm so confused!!!! I guess it's these two low spots that are whats giving me my most difficult time...I don't want them there anymore...I guess I need to fill them up with material, but how? I drag a bunch of gravel over to the low spot and dump it...now what? Keep doing that until the entire area is covered with gravel?..then what? I'd have 10 piles of gravel just sitting there...is this where you need to be really good with a box blade and constantly adjust it up and down to keep a constant height? I mean it almost seems like all you'd need to do is get a long 2x4 and screed it across to level it from the high sides on either side. I know that would basically be impossible because of the weight involved, but that seems like what needs to happen.

 

[gunner76]

I'd buy a rear mounted blade, you can turn the blade around and use the backside to feather out the material(it wont' dig this way)and make the top smooth. You have the right idea by pulling material into the low spots but you have to give the new material time to get packed and bind with the existing material. What I'd do is pull fresh gravel into(or just have some new gravel spread over the low spot)the low spot then use the rear mounted blade set so the backside of the blade will grab the material and feather the gravel out so it's smooth. Then use your tractor to wheel pack it in, let it sit for awhile to get good and hard then add some more gravel. Keep repeating this until the spot is built up to your liking.

Motor Graders have slope meters so you can tell when the machine starts to dip, you wont' have this so you'll just have to go by sight and feel. It takes a lot of practice to get good at grading, but the nice thing is if you screw up you just fix your mistakes and learn from it.

Just make sure you dont' take too much material away from other spots. If you do and get into the base then you'll have a muddy, slimy mess next time it rains and then you'll have to add gravel back to those spots. If you start noticing clay or dirt(or whatever is used for a base under the gravel)you went to deep.

Eventually you will need to add gravel since it will be lost due to normal use or washout.

 

[JimRB]

I have some reappearing potholes on the 1/2 mile road I live on. Even if the county road grader grades, they come back up. No scarifying by them. when I dress I use my rear blade, not a box blade and pull at an angle. The hope is that I can smooth out the washboards. Anyhow, for reappearing potholes I have found that dumping rock and the fines works better than me messing around with tractor implements. I use my loader bucket to collect rock/gravel and fines and just fill in the pot holes. A few times of filling in and that pot hole is gone. Note that fines are required, not just gravel.

I too have found that bone dry roads are hard to fix. After a rain is much easier as long as the road is not wet, just damp.