Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 22
  1. #11
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    800
    Location
    Winn Parish, LA
    Tractor
    Case 380B, Super C

    Default Re: Gravel Driveway vs Box Blade

    The rear blade will work better than box blade. I have a steep drive also, and got tired of dragging it back up the hill every time it rained hard. The only way I've found to stop the "river runs through it"ordeal was to crown it and dig shallow ditch with hoe down each side because drive is cut into the hill I'm on.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    172
    Location
    Texas
    Tractor
    Ford 1700

    Default Re: Gravel Driveway vs Box Blade

    I use my box blade for light digging, and dragging a box full of material from a pile to a different spot.

    I use my rear grader blade for ALL smoothing operations. Its what it was meant for and works much better than the box for that purpose. I have a 72", because it still covers my tire tracks when used at an angle.

    My old Ford tractor is a gear model with 12 forward speeds, and I've found that SLOW is the best speed to use when grading.

    Turning the balde around backwards and pushing it in reverse gives increased bite if you have a stubborn spot, otherwise I use it as a drag implement, moving forward. For real finese, you can leave it turned around and drag the surface with the curved back side of the blade too.

    Good luck.

  3. #13
    Elite Member SPIKER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    4,158
    Location
    Ohio, Jeromesville, Ashland County
    Tractor
    Jinma 284

    Default Re: Gravel Driveway vs Box Blade

    those woopeidoos are fun HUH!

    like others said go SLOW and use the scarfers to break up the top surface to about 2~3" on the humps, that will make it easier to spread the humps out into the lowes...

    I don't have a blade but the BOX is great for drive maintenance kind of one thing it was made for , moving and leveling. others said it that the top link is the KEY to getting the blade to do what you want.


    tilt the box so that the blade hits slightly before the sides in the front, use the scarfers in just down below the blade height. and only for the first few passes once the gravel is loosened up then retract the scarfers. Move the loose stuff into the lows then tilt the angle slightly flat, so blade and sides touch at same time, pay close attension is best way to get the hills and vallies gone, watch the box fill & empty it when you come to a low by raising it slightly. (my method as no draft control on mine,) though I think the draft control may hurt you with a box and actually cause the high/low problem?

    process is not that hard just takes some getting used to and ccorect blade angle with top link.


    Mark M [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

  4. #14

    Default Re: Gravel Driveway vs Box Blade

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( And in my opinion you'll continue to have the problem as long as you are trying to raise and lower the box blade with the 3-point hitch (at least I did). )</font>
    I totally agree Bird. Putting the 3pt in float causes the box blade to follow the contours and if adjusted properly at the top link will knock off the tops and drag them into the low. Position control is apparently better for this than draft control as when draft control hits a hard spot, it brings the 3pt arms up out of the ground and then drops them back in after the hard stuff is passed. Also, when the tractor tires go into a depression, in float, the box is not pulled up out of the material as it does if not in float. John

  5. #15
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    1,534
    Location
    Blair, Ne.
    Tractor
    L3130

    Default Re: Gravel Driveway vs Box Blade

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( Tell your wife to slowdown! [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] )</font>

    So I'm not only one... [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] I try not to watch.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    421
    Location
    East Central Mo
    Tractor
    TC40 16LA FEL w-QT & 758c BH

    Default Re: Gravel Driveway vs Box Blade

    DepthCharge:

    As others have posted, the problem is the change of angle because of the tires going up &amp; down in the ruts. If the tires are level, the grading will be level. Visualize a washboard (draw a wavy line on a piece of paper). Now draw your tractor in. Playing with adjustments on the top link can help. Going slower makes it easier, etc. But you still have the fundamental problem.

    But you can see that by "pushing" instead of "pulling", the tires are running more level as they are riding in the more level gravel/dirt (or whatever you are trying to level). It's a simple issue of the geometry. I didn't like the regular box blade set-up myself, so I bought a roll-over type. The "box" can be pulled, or, rolled over easy with a lever and pushed as needed. The rippers are in a third position and "rolled" into position without the box blade so you can rip without blading. While a bit more expensive than a standard box blade in my view they are much more flexible for leveling work. The leveling work I have done so far would have been much harder and involved a longer learning curve with a standard, fixed box blade with manually adjustable rippers.

    JEH

  7. #17
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    2,086
    Location
    SW Ohio
    Tractor
    yanmar

    Default Re: Gravel Driveway vs Box Blade

    Maybe I'm just content in my ignorance, but I don't encounter that on the drive, and I maintain app. 320' of drive. I've had that hill and valley thing happen when tilling dirt, but not using a box blade. If the drive just needs a touch-up, I don't drop the scarifiers. If it has gotten rough, I will drop them to the first hole (perhaps 2") for the first couple of passes. In either case I set the box blade down all the way and just go...rather slowly, and then feather out the excess left in the box when I am finished.
    Another device I have found even nicer for just leveling (it won't dig at all) is a land leveler...an 8' is actually less than a 5' box blade, and can be dragged by about 25hp. It has several cross pieces at varying angles to help level material.

  8. #18

    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    24
    Location
    Howell, Michigan
    Tractor
    JD 4115

    Default Re: Gravel Driveway vs Box Blade

    Thanks to everyone for the advice.

    I ended up putting the 3 point control into float mode and tilting the box blade back to prevent the blade from biting in.

    Then I just ran it back and forth for about an hour.
    Worked like a charm, the driveway is nice and level now.

    I came very close to buying a grader blade that I could angle but I didn't have to do it. I will still buy one in the future but I don't have to now.

    Thanks again,

    DepthCharge

  9. #19
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    1
    Location
    Ft wayne, IN
    Tractor
    New Holland TC30

    Default Re: Gravel Driveway vs Box Blade

    Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com get a Top-n-Tilt set up for your tractor and gravel spredding will be a breeze

  10. #20
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    121
    Location
    wilmington, NC
    Tractor
    Kubota L3400

    Default Re: Gravel Driveway vs Box Blade

    I hope that poor fella figured it out already in the past 9yrs.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2014 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.