First time using a rear blade, man I really suck!

   / First time using a rear blade, man I really suck! #1  

Soldier415

Platinum Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2016
Messages
693
Location
Vermont
Tractor
2001 Kubota L3010GST. 2005 Kubota L3430HSTC
Purchased a Land Pride RB3784 with hydraulic angle a few months ago. I also have top n tilt on the tractor. Had 30 yards of crusher run trucked in and chain spread yesterday to fix a section of road and have enough material to put a proper crown on it.

The material was spread uneven and quite thick. Angled blade 45 degrees and tilted it to have a 4 degree crown. Even going very slow it was a chit show. tractor goes up and down over the uneven spots and the blade dips and rises.

As I said in title, first time using a rear blade for this purpose. I dropped the blade off and attached the box blade thinking if I spread with the BB to get an even flat surface I can come back over it with the tilted blade to crown it.

Any advice for a grader blade noob from those that are experienced?

Pics of how it sits now

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Kby9TwI.jpg
 
   / First time using a rear blade, man I really suck! #2  
You understand the problem well.

There are a few things that can help, but nothing is perfect. Dozers cut a nice grade because they are on tracks so little imperfections don move the whole machine, and the blade is in the front so you are driving on what's already been graded.

Some things that help...

1. With loose material like the stone you had delivered, spin blade around and go in reverse. That way the tires stay on the level part you have already graded.

2. Rear gauge wheel if your blade has that as an option.
3. Skid shoes. These aren't real effective in loose material though
 
   / First time using a rear blade, man I really suck!
  • Thread Starter
#3  
You understand the problem well.

There are a few things that can help, but nothing is perfect. Dozers cut a nice grade because they are on tracks so little imperfections don move the whole machine, and the blade is in the front so you are driving on what's already been graded.

Some things that help...

1. With loose material like the stone you had delivered, spin blade around and go in reverse. That way the tires stay on the level part you have already graded.

2. Rear gauge wheel if your blade has that as an option.
3. Skid shoes. These aren't real effective in loose material though

1. With the hydraulic angle cylinder I can't swing the blade around. I could still go in reverse just using the back of the blade

2. I have searched and searched but they don't offer a rear wheel with this blade

3. Yeah, don't think it would work that well
 
   / First time using a rear blade, man I really suck! #4  
I will grade alot using the blade backwards; if I am going forwards the blade is turned around backwards, if I am going backwards the blade is turned towards the front. This allows it to drag a mass of rock, drop it into shallow areas and it doesn't have much dig to it.
 
   / First time using a rear blade, man I really suck! #5  
1. With the hydraulic angle cylinder I can't swing the blade around. I could still go in reverse just using the back of the blade

You can turn it around but you'll have to put the cylinder on the other side.
 
   / First time using a rear blade, man I really suck! #6  
You are learning that the 'ol rear blade has a somewhat long learning curve. If I'm grading my mile long gravel driveway and using my rear blade - I do exactly as Birdhunter1 does. Reverse the blade and drive forward. The ups/downs in my driveway just cause the rear blade to dig and dump too often.

As a matter of fact - since I got my Land Pride GS2584 - land plane grading scraper - I haven't used the rear blade for that job any more. The LPGS grades the gravel, the Rhino 950 plows the snow.
 
   / First time using a rear blade, man I really suck! #7  
I'm not good at it either. I am getting better at feathering the 3pt up and down while going very slow.
 
   / First time using a rear blade, man I really suck! #8  
Using the convex portion of the blade vs. the concave section would be best, so just leave it as-is and roll backwards. The rear of the blade should push across/through the high spots and imperfections and you will only drive on more level surface and shouldn't get the dip and dig issues.
 
   / First time using a rear blade, man I really suck! #9  
Using the convex portion of the blade vs. the concave section would be best, so just leave it as-is and roll backwards. The rear of the blade should push across/through the high spots and imperfections and you will only drive on more level surface and shouldn't get the dip and dig issues.
Hard on the 3pt linkage, no?
 
   / First time using a rear blade, man I really suck! #10  
I am only familiar with granite (crusher run)...but it is much easier to work with when it is wet...when it's "right" if can be spread like butter...

Agree about using the blade turned backwards...also try less of an angle...45* is a lot...try 15*-20*
 
 
 
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