Farwood measuring guide for chainsaws...

[pmsmechanic]

My suggestion, too, but use a coupling nut and lock nut with the all-thread. Skip the welding.

Bruce

Except that the all thread is SAE and the bolts on the chain bar are metric.

 

[4570Man]

I can eyeball pretty good on straight timber. On short logs ( read tree guy wood that's free) or crooked logs I like to mark them. Marking paint is the fastest method I've found. If I don't have any paint, a spade bit in a drill is the next best way I've found. I like the idea if holding a branch across the top of the saw. I don't like the idea of a semi permanently attached stick.

 

[BukitCase]

"Except that the all thread is SAE and the bolts on the chain bar are metric. "

Shop Metric Coupling Nuts at Lowes.com
Shop Metric Threaded Rods at Lowes.com

 

[CalG]

I want 18 inch lengths... I use an 18 inch saw bar. Always a handy reference .:2cents:

I use a measuring stick with two marks too. One at 18 inches and one is the max height of the piece that will fit into the stove. Saves a lot of splitting when I am cutting limbs. It tells me which pieces have to be split ... the rest will go directly into the stove after cutting to length.

When you are looking at a 7 cord load, flipping the saw 90 degrees and back again for each cut is just plain idiot work.

that's all I can say about that.

 

[tjkubota93]

I'm an idiot, I use my bar. Just make marks with the chainsaw.

Usually only buck a little at a time.

 

[TomSeller]

I like 16", maybe up to 18". My bar lengths on my saws are 16", 20" and 25". I eyeball the cuts based on marks on the 20 and 25" bars. When using the 16" I just aim for the approx length of the bar. Up to 6" variation doesn't bother me much. I would rather have variation and burn very inch of wood that I can than leave short stubs just so my woodpiles are perfect. I don't sell wood where it makes a difference. I have a side pile of chunks of small wood too short to stack. They come in handy when I just want to keep the fire going for a few hours until I get back home, etc.

 

[pmsmechanic]

"Except that the all thread is SAE and the bolts on the chain bar are metric. "

Shop Metric Coupling Nuts at Lowes.com
Shop Metric Threaded Rods at Lowes.com

Ho Man you are hard to please! I live out in the boonies. I'm not going to drive an hour one way to look for something a store might have. It's just quicker to weld something up. And it's not that hard either. But thanks for your help.

 

[CalG]

I like 16", maybe up to 18". My bar lengths on my saws are 16", 20" and 25". I eyeball the cuts based on marks on the 20 and 25" bars. When using the 16" I just aim for the approx length of the bar. Up to 6" variation doesn't bother me much. I would rather have variation and burn very inch of wood that I can than leave short stubs just so my woodpiles are perfect. I don't sell wood where it makes a difference. I have a side pile of chunks of small wood too short to stack. They come in handy when I just want to keep the fire going for a few hours until I get back home, etc.

Tom

I've got a pile of chunks for the same reason!

 

[Aquamoose]

I use a long white pvc pipe taped black at 18" intervals. Lay it on a stack of logs with the ends squared and mark them with the chainsaw. I usually can do 3-4 logs at a time then I roll them apart & buck them.

 

[square1]

I'm an idiot too. I scribe a line 16" & 14" (for one customer liking shorter lengths) back from the tip on both sides of the bar and brush bright red paint over the scribe marks with a thin brush. When the paint wears off the bar's surface I have a crisp thin red line down each side of the bar at 16" & 14".

Your thread tiltle reminds me of this bit:

Do you know the occupation of the Three Wise Men?

Firemen, they had come from a far.