Tiller Tiller Question

   / Tiller Question #1  

Jackfr

Gold Member
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
321
Location
Plymouth, MA
Tractor
NH WorkMaster 33 Ford F5000 NH T 4.90 Ford 2110 JD555B
We have five acres of newly cleared field to prepare for seeding this spring. It has been stumped and the large rocks we've found so far removed, but still has forest root mat on it in places along with some of the broken roots of scrub pine, maple and oak trees. The area is mostly sandy soil with rocks ranging from golf ball size to house size. In the past we have plowed, harrowed and then picked the trash by hand from the fields when we have cleared them. This was very time consuming and labor intensive. I've never used a tiller before. My question is will an 7 or 8' tiller with a slip clutch be able to handle the forest root mat, root pieces up to 1" in diameter and the smaller rocks? Any recommendations for a tiller? I only need the top 2 to 3" fined up to plant grass for hay and pasture. I plan on harrowing with my 10' transport harrow first to help level up.
 
   / Tiller Question #2  
The harrow should help "break" the top soil and make the job for any tiller quite a bit easier. My experience with virgin tracts is that the initial breaking of the surface of the soil will be the most difficult part of tilling. There should not be too many areas that require a second pass. I've never used a tiller as big as you want so no help there. Perhaps see if you can rent one - pretty expensive piece of equipment for just one time use.
 
   / Tiller Question #3  
We have five acres of newly cleared field to prepare for seeding this spring. It has been stumped and the large rocks we've found so far removed, but still has forest root mat on it in places along with some of the broken roots of scrub pine, maple and oak trees. The area is mostly sandy soil with rocks ranging from golf ball size to house size. In the past we have plowed, harrowed and then picked the trash by hand from the fields when we have cleared them. This was very time consuming and labor intensive. I've never used a tiller before. My question is will an 7 or 8' tiller with a slip clutch be able to handle the forest root mat, root pieces up to 1" in diameter and the smaller rocks? Any recommendations for a tiller? I only need the top 2 to 3" fined up to plant grass for hay and pasture. I plan on harrowing with my 10' transport harrow first to help level up.

The renting of a 7' or 8' tiller as suggested by "Oosik" is a good idea, but where?
I too am from SE Ma. and have absolutely no idea where to rent such a tiller.
I bought a new 60" King Kutter tiller, because there is nothing like it in our general area for me to rent.
A 7' or 8' tiller would be almost impossible to find for rent in our area.
 
   / Tiller Question #4  
I know, I know - there is absolutely nowhere I could rent something like that around here either. You guys back east always come up with all sorts of used equipment at auctions, farm sales, internet, etc. I was just hoping such might be available.

Thirty five years around this area and I can't even find a used hoe for sale. It is a total lost cause trying to find used utility tractor sized implements in this neck of the woods. I simply gave up long ago and now I save up and buy new stuff. Man, it goes against my grain - but what is a guy to do.
 
   / Tiller Question #5  
oosik,
Thanks for advice.

Jackfr,
Woodmax make a nice 7 ft tiller, gear drive, reasonable price. Not sure if root cover would be an issue. need to consult factory. I have a BEFCO tiller. They offer a straight blade option. It also was shipped with std cupped blades as well. I use the straight blades for Aeration twice a year in horse pastures. Makes the machine much more versatile, Aeration very healthy for grass/hay fields, Believe it would work with root cover. The salient point here is that any machine shop can fabricate straight blades for any tiller. They just need a std blade from factory as a template. They should use AR 500 tempered steel. Bevel the edge. You can see an example on the BEFCO website. They use a sports field as an example. I do NOT use the close spacing as shown, not necessary, I skip to every other disc. Weight is the secret to a tiller efficiency. They are as self destructive as a helicopter, if you are familiar, so they must be heavy to eliminate the bounce. Must be used when soil is high moisture, if the sun hardens the ground, forget it. As for a power harrow, fabulous tool, extremely costly especially for single or occasional use.
 
   / Tiller Question #6  
I don't think a tiller will speed things along. You most likely will need multiple passes to get the ground where you want it. I am inclined to think that plowing and harrowing are still your best options - especially if you have the equipment already. Perhaps using a landscape rake to clean up at the end would help.
goodluck-
 
   / Tiller Question #7  
Here what I think. Scrap the tiller idea. If you got roots and rocks and what not, I think that would be really hard on a tiller. You take the chance of rapping a "green" root up in the tiller or possibly hitting a big rock and busting the gear drive or something. I think I'd find a good heavy disk that will really cut in to the soil and disc it. A disc would glide over a big rock and may cut up some of those roots. I got 2 discs. One is an old case disc and I can put it with either my 730 John Deere or ma allis Chalmers 185. The other disc is a Krause and it is really heavy and really cuts in. My 730 can't handle it and allis doesn't want any more. If at that disc just cut in at max, it stop that allis in its tracks. I think a disc like that with about 140 hp tractor and let it cut in at max would be the answer. There is a lot of ground back here that gets broke up with a big disc.
 
   / Tiller Question #8  
tcreely,
Thought you would have presented that post more poetically but here is a thought. OP stated he does not wish to go very deep. Maybe a chisel plow? Mold board and big rocks don't mix well. And any plowing will simply produce significantly more rock. The OP may actually find himself between a rock, a hard place, and even more rocks. The power harrow, expensive alternative, will certainly churn up additional rocks. Is a disc harrow what you propose? Seems feasible and should be available used in reasonable condition. Needs adequate adjustment ability to control aggressiveness.
 
   / Tiller Question #9  
I have 6+ foot rototiller for my produce garden. It is a great tool but would't be what you would need. If you didn't break it you would need half a dozen passes and you still have to pick up the rocks and roots as you go at each pass.
 
   / Tiller Question #10  
tcreely,
Thought you would have presented that post more poetically but here is a thought. OP stated he does not wish to go very deep. Maybe a chisel plow? Mold board and big rocks don't mix well. And any plowing will simply produce significantly more rock. The OP may actually find himself between a rock, a hard place, and even more rocks. The power harrow, expensive alternative, will certainly churn up additional rocks. Is a disc harrow what you propose? Seems feasible and should be available used in reasonable condition. Needs adequate adjustment ability to control aggressiveness.
With the discs I have they work on a hydraulic cylinder. You can raise the disc all the way up so only the tire touch the ground. This is for transport either down the road or to the field. It kind of works on a pivot controlled my the cylinder. When you get to the field, you lower the disc by gradually raising the the wheels. That is how you can control the depth. Ig you pull the wheels all the way up so the tires are not touching the ground, your gonna be cutting in at max depth. If you have a big heavy disc, that when your going to need that 140 hp tractor. Like wise if you paying the disc and it is pulling hard, you use the cylinder to lift the disc a little to take a little load off the tractor. And yes, I've seen guys pulling a harrow behind a disc. I've also seen discs dragging a piece of angle iron with chains and big loops (4-6 inches in diameter) in place of a harrow. The idea is when the disc is all the way up, the chains are not touching the ground. Works out pretty good.
 
 
 
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