Logging winch- New user with questions!

[KubotaGirl001]

Hi! I'm new here and really enjoy all the shared info. I just bought my first tractor (Kubota M7060) and not only am I learning about operating it but also very interested in learning all the safety rules. I intend to use the tractor for use in the woods and bought a new FX 110 Wallenstein logging winch (10,500 lbs pulling power with 7/16" steel cable). I have some questions about using the winch and I hope I can get some help here. Please excuse me if I am using some terms incorrectly! Feel free to correct me

1- When first connecting the winch to the TPO will I necessarily have to get the shaft adjusted (cut?)? Or is it possible it may just be a perfect fit right from the factory? If it needs to be shortened who does that?

2- My biggest concern is for safety. I have watched as many youtube videos as possible of logs being winched. What are the biggest safety concerns? I do understand one should never stand behind the rear wheel while winching because the tractor can suddenly move backwards. Also, I do not have a remote on the winch so will be using the cord. I am a bit leery of the cable snapping. How dangerous is this if the cable does snap? Does it come flying back towards the tractor with tremendous force? Do people get seriously injured/killed this way? The winch has that screen to protect the window, so is it safest/best to control the brake cord from in the cab? Most videos show the person standing to the side. Also, should one never winch at an angle to the tractor and instead try to keep it as straight a line as possible?

3- When skidding the logs sometimes they are going to be digging into the ground depending on the circumstances. Does anyone have any tips or tricks that may make it easier to avoid this? I just want the log, not the soil! Is there a trick to attaching the choker to the log that will help prevent it? One of our neighbors used to skid the logs out from the small end which seems it may help the log from digging in, but then why is everyone taking it out from the big end first? (is it to do with the weight of the log in relation to the winch pulling power?).

Ok, I'll leave it at this for now but there will be more questions, for sure! Thank you for any help/info you can share.

 

[Oldpath05]

1>The pto shaft needs to the right length, if a little to long it could break the pto output shaft on the tractor, proper measurement is required, best to have a local dealer do that or get some good intel on it, also the plastic guard has to put back over the pto shaft.

2> straightest pull is best on a heavy log, bucket on ground, brakes on, winch down making sure one side on winch blade is NOT on a stump/rock. My cable is 5/16", broke numerous times, never whipped back like a synthetic rope can and that's when people get hurt. Mine just drops, then I try to make sure it doesn't rewind back inside the winch, if it does stuff has to taken apart to get the cable back out. Best to winch/pull rope with one foot against tire or winch for best view of what going on and do watch what's going on, winch with no more power than necessary.

3> But end usually skids easier, to help from digging in ground you can cut the but flanges off, cut the log into or by one of them skidding cones. Can also make short skids to a trailer than put the log on a trailer for a stay cleaner result.

 

[KubotaGirl001]

1>The pto shaft needs to the right length, if a little to long it could break the pto output shaft on the tractor, proper measurement is required, best to have a local dealer do that or get some good intel on it, also the plastic guard has to put back over the pto shaft.

2> straightest pull is best on a heavy log, bucket on ground, brakes on, winch down making sure one side on winch blade is NOT on a stump/rock. My cable is 5/16", broke numerous times, never whipped back like a synthetic rope can and that's when people get hurt. Mine just drops, then I try to make sure it doesn't rewind back inside the winch, if it does stuff has to taken apart to get the cable back out. Best to winch/pull rope with one foot against tire or winch for best view of what going on and do watch what's going on, winch with no more power than necessary.

3> But end usually skids easier, to help from digging in ground you can cut the but flanges off, cut the log into or by one of them skidding cones. Can also make short skids to a trailer than put the log on a trailer for a stay cleaner result.

Thank you for the excellent info, Oldpath. I never knew there was such thing as a skidding cone. Definitely going to look into that.

 

[Jstpssng]

Always pull straight to the back of the winch never from the side, or you may flip your tractor. When possible I run my choker under the butt of the log, so that the end will lift when I apply tension. As time goes on you will learn the limitations of your winch and how to maximize it. Your manual can also give a lot of useful tips. Above all, take your time. I.E. if a log gets hung up on a stump, stop and assess rather than trying to force it over. Breaking something or getting injured takes more time in the long run.

.

 

[motownbrowne]

It'd be good if you could spend some time with someone who knows their way around these machines. Anyone in your area who could spend a day with you?

Barring that, next best would be a phone conversation with someone who's used one a fair amount. I'm no expert by any means, but I've spent a decent amount of time working with my farmi winch. If you have any interest, please feel free to PM me for my number. I'm sure any of the other folks on here would do the same. Gordon Gould, Sawyer Rob, oldpath come to mind.

 

[jaxs]

Get at least two 20,000 Lb snatch blocks. Yes,double rating of winch because a busted block is 5 times dangerous as snapped cable. They alow pulling logs at odd angles while keeping straight pull on cable as it spools onto winch. A block alow's for easily doubling pulling power of winch withut increased strain on cable. Snatch blocks are also handy for pulling over a bank or across a creek. Always use a choker and never wrap winch cable around logs.
Best money you can spend is hiring an experienced helper to learn from. Due to risks of injury,you shouldn't work alone anyhow.

 

[CobyRupert]

With the winch on, but pto disconnected, you can raise the 3pth and winch so that the pto shaft would be perfectly level if connected. This is the shortest distance the pto shaft ever needs to telescope to. If, in this position, the shaft is short enough to connect to the tractor’s pto you’re good. Else pull the shaft apart and cut the part in your hand shorter.

When winching, keep one eye on the log, one eye on the cable at the winch (to confirm it’s moving and you’re not burning the winch’s clutch), and one eye on the tractor (that you’re not pulling it backwards). Helps if you’re a tri-clops.

When winching, I just stand to the side to see all the above and feel relatively safe that I’m out of way if cable snaps. Any failures I’ve had was a snap at the choker chain end and cable lost energy before it could make it to anywhere close to the tractor.

Trees winch and pull way easier from butt end.

When winching past stumps, rocks, etc.. that tree may get stuck on, I usually have winch cable pulling from the top pulley of winch and don’t use the lower pulley. Yes, this puts more force on your top link, but helps lift the log over obstacles.

It took me a while to get choker chains to stay on. Especially when grabbing multiple logs or falling off from vibrations when you’re first taking up slack. Snap hooks help, but mine get bent beyond use after awhile. I find it best to run the choker hook under log, and then hook it to cable slack you pull over the top of the log at the “back” side of the log away from the winch. The open side of the hook facing away from the winch. This way gravity on the hook, and the weight of the cable going back to the winch keeps the hook tight and on when you start winching.

Winches are good if you hang up a tree and want to safely pull it down, but remember that if the bottom of the tree doesn’t slide towards you as expected , and (surprise!) becomes the hinge point, the top of the tree is coming at you. Keep your distance.

 

[TnAndy]

Get at least two 20,000 Lb snatch blocks. Yes,double rating of winch because a busted block is 5 times dangerous as snapped cable. They alow pulling logs at odd angles while keeping straight pull on cable as it spools onto winch. A block alow's for easily doubling pulling power of winch withut increased strain on cable. Snatch blocks are also handy for pulling over a bank or across a creek. Always use a choker and never wrap winch cable around logs.
Best money you can spend is hiring an experienced helper to learn from. Due to risks of injury,you shouldn't work alone anyhow.

I've never had need for more than one snatch block, and don't think that much capacity is needed on a tractor winch.....the clutch on the winch will give before the block. Full sizer logging skidder, sure, but not a tractor winch.

The one I use is a Jet brand. 2ton, 6" wheel. It weighs 17lbs. Going to a 4 ton, 8" wheel (largest one Jet currently makes) increases the weight to 43lb. I can't imagine what a 10ton one would weigh, 100lbs or so ? or how you'd lug it around in the woods.

$209.12 Canadian here:

Jet 136 6" Single Sheave Painted Snatch Block

If a log gets hung up, release the tension on the cable. Walk back to a mid point in the cable and with a short hunk of chain, attach the block to a tree or something solid. There is a plate on the side of the block that opens to allow you to put the winch cable in the block, then flips/locks shut.

Walk back to the tractor and pull down on the control handle for the winch. The log will now move at an angle to the straight line pull, clearing what was binding it before (usually another tree or stump), moving toward the snatch block. Once you have it clear, stop....walk back and take the cable back out of the block, resume your straight pull to the tractor.

You can see the orange painted Jet block hanging on the left side of my winch with the side plate open in this photo.

 

[jaxs]

I've never had need for more than one snatch block, and don't think that much capacity is needed on a tractor winch.....the clutch on the winch will give before the block. Full sizer logging skidder, sure, but not a tractor winch.

The one I use is a Jet brand. 2ton, 6" wheel. It weighs 17lbs. Going to a 4 ton, 8" wheel (largest one Jet currently makes) increases the weight to 43lb. I can't imagine what a 10ton one would weigh, 100lbs or so ? or how you'd lug it around in the woods.

$209.12 Canadian here:

Hey Kabota girl,I lug this one around in my coat pocket and it's so simple there's no need for instructions. Check it out on Ebay.

HD 22,000 lbs Snatch Block 10 TON Recovery Winch Pulley Off Road ATV UTV Tow
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$24.40
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[KubotaGirl001]

Wow, thank you all so much for taking the time to explain with such detail! I am so grateful for all this advice and expertise. I'm soaking it all up and re-reading the comments to make sure I didn't miss one thing that is said. Please keep sharing your experiences. The snatch block pulley for pulling across streams or up a bank is a great one. Jaxs, I thought going over a bank or across stream was a limiting factor for the winch but using the snatch block to get past that is great to know! I am starting to get a clearer picture of the winch's abilities and limitations. I did buy a Wallenstein 8,000 lb self-release snatch block when I bought the winch and picking them up this morning.