Box Scraper How to/pointers?

[udrugby]

I have a GB48 box blade being delivered today to attach to my my BX2200. I was hoping I can get some pointers on how to use this implement.

Here are some of the details;
I will be leveling an area about 75'x50'.
I have about 1' to 2' grade to deal with.
Area is clay & soil mixture with roots.
How dry does the area need to be before I can start.

I am building a play area for my kids.

Thanks for you help -

 

[tc35dforme]

The only advice I can give is:

1. Practice, practice and then practice
2. Experimernt with the top link length...out digs...in spreads
3. Patience is important...don't look for pavement smooth the first time.
4. Take small bites....too much of an attack and you'll get frustrated.
5. Invest in a Hydraulic Top Link.
6. Good Luck.


The boxblade is a wonderful tool, but does have a bit of a learning curve. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Casimir]

2. Experimernt with the top link length...out digs...in spreads

I think you have this backwards. A shortened top link tips the box forward to dig. A lengthened top link tips the box back to spread.

As stated - practice is the only way to get good with it. When you get close to level, and have cut down the high spots and filled the low spots, then travelling in walking ovals, figure 8's, etc. -- with the BB set neutral or to spread-- will really help with the final leveling process.

Dropping the scarifiers (teeth) will help to break up the soil so you can drag it from the high spots to the low spots.

Soil moisture is critical, but again, you will have to try it at different times until you learn to judge -- too wet and you end up with mud balled up in the box -- too dry and everything turns to powder and dust and won't pack well in the low spots you are filling.

Have fun. You will get plenty of seat time /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How dry does the area need to be before I can start. )</font>

Just dry enough that it doesn't stick to the blade. You'll have to experiment with adjusting the length of the top link and then keep practicing. Naturally, a hydraulic top link is a tremendous help if you have it.

 

[jinman]

The biggest mistake I see made with a boxblade (or FEL for that matter) is trying to take too big a bite. Take small bites and develop control. With patience you will learn what is the best bite-size for the soil type and your tractor. Just think about how many shovels full of dirt you are moving and use that to put your work into perspective. Any work I do on a tractor is far easier than the work I do with a shovel in my hands. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[tc35dforme]

/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Wouldn't you know it !!!

I had it the right way when I first posted. I got thinking and convinced myself to change it. I should have just walked out back and checked....

Oh well....been wrong before, and I may be wrong again !!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[johnk]

I have been using my box scraper, grader blade, middle buster etc trying to get my property @ my cabin in working order. Like they say practice makes perfect. After about 100 hours I'm still not perfect but getting better. Here's a link to my website to see the projects I've been doing.Look where it says tractor pics June 17 th 2004 and keep clicking the picture and it will go to the next one. I actually like using the grader blade. I back up with the blade down to help me level stuff. It seems the cutting edge doesn't get as aggressive when backing, with the blade in the normal position of forward scraping. The box scraper is the best for loosening up the soil and ripping the roots. Thats a real art to get the ground smooth.
/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
http://users.adelphia.net/~gizmo/

 

[DaGoatMan]

tc35dforme,

I believe you had it right in your first post. If I shorten my top link my box blade is less aggressive in the digging department. This is because when the top link is short it lifts the rear end of the blade farther off the ground so when the implement is lowered the front part of the box hits the ground first preventing the blade area from digging in too deep. A longer top link does the reverse. That's my experience. Not sure how it would be different for other blades.

 

[plaindave]

You know I was working in the yard today (busting up clay soil as a matter of fact) with the box blade and I lengthened the top link to spread/level the soil. When I did this it dug in like you wouldn't believe. Darn near stalled out the tractor because I wasn't paying enough attention.

I always thought that you lengthened the top link to spread, shortened it to dig in, but that's not what happened today. Maybe it was just the conditions or what I don't know, but that was my experience.

I'm a bulldozer guy, so the blade in the back stuff is confusing to me.

 

[TORQUIN]

Generally, I just adjust the height of the box on the 3pt to determine whther to dig or spread. I lengthen the top link to tilt the teeth up, since they are already in their highest setting and I don't want to cut in with them sometimes. It's a hassle to remove them because I need them often, so I just tilt the box back a bit and the teeh don't come into play unnless I let the 3pt down too much.

As far as tips on this, all I have found is repeated going over the area, and adjusting the height little by little, until you get the result you're after. I'm gonna read the other responses so maybe I can pick up a tip ot two.

I'm looking for tips on grading with the front bucket. After I do a stump I hate to have to pull off the BH to use the grader box.

Chris