Advice on Grader/Scraper blade

   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade
  • Thread Starter
#11  
It does only offset one direction without swapping the cylinder over, but tilts both directions. I would prefer manual offset over manual angle, but it's not a killer for me considering the robust of the blade and price. I'm in the middle of paying off our new farm and building a house and any thing spent on implements or work on the farm is paid up front out of pocket so I'm having to look at things with function and price in mind until we get settled in and more funds are available. A $4500+ blade isn't in the cards right now. Mostly what I'm needing out of it is it to be stout enough to use pulling ditches and building our new drive way behind my tractor that if I find and old stump I don't fold up the blade. Appreciate the advice!
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade #12  
It does only offset one direction without swapping the cylinder over, but tilts both directions. I would prefer manual offset over manual angle, but it's not a killer for me considering the robust of the blade and price. I'm in the middle of paying off our new farm and building a house and any thing spent on implements or work on the farm is paid up front out of pocket so I'm having to look at things with function and price in mind until we get settled in and more funds are available. A $4500+ blade isn't in the cards right now. Mostly what I'm needing out of it is it to be stout enough to use pulling ditches and building our new drive way behind my tractor that if I find and old stump I don't fold up the blade. Appreciate the advice!

COOL, :cool: Good to know that it at least tilts to both directions. :thumbsup:
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade #13  
If you buy a used one with hydraulics be sure to flush out the lines really well. The pictures of the one you posted show why. In this case the hose ends are in the sand. Never know how they have been stored. Best to be safe.

That blade looks nice and would be easy to have mounts welded to it if you needed to install or swap one of the cylinder to the angle function.
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade
  • Thread Starter
#14  
If you buy a used one with hydraulics be sure to flush out the lines really well. The pictures of the one you posted show why. In this case the hose ends are in the sand. Never know how they have been stored. Best to be safe.

That blade looks nice and would be easy to have mounts welded to it if you needed to install or swap one of the cylinder to the angle function.

I'll check it over good this week and if I did buy it I will keep that in mind on flushing the lines. My dealer told me the best way to keep a happy hydraulic system was using only my own implements with my own clean fluid in them when hooked up. I can see what he means.
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I've tried finding some literature on the blade for specs and can't. But the new Industrias America 165 is an exact clone and that blade is rated for 100-150 hp. Do you see this blade being to much for my tractor to handle? I operate my stuff with care, but I don't want the size and weight of a scrape blade to cause damage to my tractor, at the same time I need it to hold up in case of a snagged stump.
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade #16  
Well - my tractor is very close to the size and weight of the OP's. Roughly 9000 pounds without the rear blade and 10,100 with the rear blade.

My driveway is a mile long gravel with just enough fines that it "dries out" about this time of year and becomes hard as 30 year old concrete.

I have an excellent Land Pride RB3596 that weighs 566 pounds and is perfect for plowing snow in the winter.

In the summer when my driveway hardens up - its an amusement toy - drive down the driveway after sunset and watch the sparks fly off the blade as it bounces down the driveway behind my tractor.

Even with my Fit Rite hydraulic top link I can not get an angle that will make this blade cut into the surface. Several posts suggested that I NOT add weight to the Land Pride rear blade for fear of over stressing the frame.

Soooooo - - I bit the bullet and went for a truly heavy - and expensive - rear blade. I had to do something because my driveway needed serious work on the ditches and crown.

I bought a Rhino 950 rear blade. Its a 96" blade - weight is 1050 pounds and I chose no hydraulics. My one rear unit is used for the hydraulic top link.

There is ABSOLUTELY no question about what is going to happen when I lower THIS blade on my driveway. The beautiful thing is how much control I have over the cut and depth of cut. The weight keeps it down without any jitters, vibration, waffling, washboarding etc, etc. I do have to be careful - if I make to aggressive an angle and simply drop the blade - it will cut and go down, down, down until you are no longer moving and all four are digging.

With the Land Pride I'm able to "nudge" it into place to make 3-point connection. With the Rhino - thank God for my 3-point arm extensions. Even with my big 'ol pry bar I'm unable to "nudge" this monster anywhere.

Now the great part - - The Rhino 950 without hydraulics was - - $3295 when I bought it last year(2017).

My only regret - - I should have bought the Rhino in 2009 when I bought my new Kubota rather than hoping that the Land Pride would do the job in the summer.

View attachment 559961 This isn't the best picture - its the only one I can find in my fantastic picture filing system - at this moment.
 
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   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade
  • Thread Starter
#17  
The John Deere 155 Blade is 10 foot so I'm afraid that will be to big.
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Saw or cutting torch will shorten it right up

I'm handy with that and a welder to cap the ends back on the blade. But is that honestly an option without any negative's to the blade?

** Edit **. Looked at the blade and just not the route I want to go. The blade was a beast though!
 
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   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Ok guys, change of pace with things now. I've decided to go the new route and buy the blade with all mechanical to help cost and upgrade hydraulics along the way. My dealer is pricing all of these except the Allied Farm King, and all 8 foot.
I listed dirt dog with bush hog and rhino because he said dirt dog makes those blades for all of them and he can get it slightly cheaper.

Dirt Dog/Bush hog 91-08 (Rhino 850)--- 825 lbs.

Rated for 4wd 70 hp PTO, 3/8" mold board & 3" king pin.

Dirt Dog/Bush hog 100-08 (Rhino 950)--- 835 lbs. I assume that is the weight without tilt, angle, and offset cylinders.

Rated for 4wd 105 hp PTO, 3/8" mold board, 3" king pin.

Monroe Tufline GB5---- 1190 lbs.

Rated for 85 hp, 3/8" mold board, 3" king pin

Allied Farm King 100 series ---- 1287 lbs. I priced both the 80 series and 100 series,. The 80 series weighs 980 lbs but has a 1/4" mold board and I'm afraid it will be the weak point. But I'm afraid the 100 is getting slightly to big for my tractor.

Rated for 100 hp (had a disclaimer that is a very conservative #), 5/16" mold board, 3.5" king pin.


Overall not sure which to chose & hope the price will help weight out which blade to buy for what it has to offer. My dealer says the Dirt dog 91 series (rhino 850) is all I would ever need. But if the price isn't very different I may step up one more size. I know Oosik is very happy with his Rhino 950 with a tractor very similarly sized to mine.

Btw, I only left land pride out because my dealer claimed he could get these a little cheaper and he carries Land Pride. Appreciate all the help guys, hope to have a decision soon, feel free to weigh in. Thanks to
 
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