massey collector
Bronze Member
How sharpe should a brush hog blade be.
I am sure not as sharp as a finish mower.
Al
I am sure not as sharp as a finish mower.
AlHow Sharpe.
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phiferpharm
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My experience is not sharp at all. I will use an angle grinder to taper the edges maybe every other year. I routinely (maybe 50 hours per year) use mine to cut both scrubs and 10 +/- acres of pasture. IMO, it is just as important to try to make sure each side is balanced,rather than sharp.
majorwager
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The design is a type of bull nose which pulls vegetation as it cuts. This type of edge is more resistant to damage in contacting concealed obstacles such as rocks. That said, I hone mine to a shap finish style edge, as I am mowing only tall grass, free of obstacles.
This mower is used sparingly to control vegetation at woods tree line w/ small ford to protect the cab on the larger kubota w/ wide finish mower.
The current stump jumper on the woods RC is the rectangular style, I Am going to convert it to the circular style and punch two additional mounting holes. Thus it will become a 4 swinging blade cutter w/ finer results . Deere does this by stacking the bleades, however using the circular jumper, vegetation is contacted at different intervals.
This mower is used sparingly to control vegetation at woods tree line w/ small ford to protect the cab on the larger kubota w/ wide finish mower.
The current stump jumper on the woods RC is the rectangular style, I Am going to convert it to the circular style and punch two additional mounting holes. Thus it will become a 4 swinging blade cutter w/ finer results . Deere does this by stacking the bleades, however using the circular jumper, vegetation is contacted at different intervals.
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Gary Fowler
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It all depends on what you are cutting. If you routinely cut small saplings, a lawnmower blade style of sharpening might leave you with some punji sticks that may ruin a tire later so a thicker edge that shatters the bush stem is best.
If only cutting grass and weeds then a sharp blade is ok and would make it much easier on the tractor to turn it. I no longer have any brush to cut with mine so I did a semi-sharp transition to them last year. It makes for a much better cut on the grass and weeds.
If only cutting grass and weeds then a sharp blade is ok and would make it much easier on the tractor to turn it. I no longer have any brush to cut with mine so I did a semi-sharp transition to them last year. It makes for a much better cut on the grass and weeds.
Oldoak
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I believe you answered your own question quite well. Just go to Tractor Supply or any Ag store that sells new replacement blades and you will see what kind of cutting edge is on them. Now if you attempt to convert a "brush hog" into a finishing mower, then of course you want a sharper edge.How sharpe should a brush hog blade be.
I am sure not as sharp as a finish mower.
Although it still will not do as fine of job as a dedicated finishing mower would do. The number of blades and higher blade rpms of the finishing mower make quite a difference, leaving a lawn like appearance.
Thomas
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Least than 1" I like good sharp edge does cleaner job.
Stimw
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massey collector
Bronze Member
Thank you all for your response. I am thinking I will ber cutting down more brush than grass as I am planing on cutting a new fence line thru some over grown vacant land.
Al
Al
DieselBound
Elite Member
The other thing with having a more blunt cutting edge for brush work is that it tends to do more damage to the stem/stalk (shatters) such that it makes it more susceptible to decay. If possible taking a second low pass at just-cut brush can pretty much eliminate possible punji stick danger.
After now having a hydraulic top link I have found brush work to be far easier: tilt rear of mower up a bit and drive in over taller stuff and then drop the end back down (gradually).
I still continue to be amazed at how well even blunt edges can cut grass.
After now having a hydraulic top link I have found brush work to be far easier: tilt rear of mower up a bit and drive in over taller stuff and then drop the end back down (gradually).
I still continue to be amazed at how well even blunt edges can cut grass.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Others covered it well.
If only grasses, sharper is gonna give a better cut quality and take less power.
If saplings are involved....blunt is good. Sharp is bad.
Interesting on 4-blade setup. I have often mulled over different ideas to make my hog cut better at speed. There are just certain types of vegetation that don't do well unless you go a snail's pace. It's often quicker to just cut at speed, and go over things twice. I mow about 400-500 acres a year commercially, and am always looking at improving.
Though with a 8' twin spindle cutter I think I am SOL. The JD style would be the only option....and that's cutting double the vegetation....in theory requiring twice the HP or half the speed.
Blades at 90 degrees apart, and cutting on the same plane.....you don't have to cut double the material. But I don't see that working with blade timing
If only grasses, sharper is gonna give a better cut quality and take less power.
If saplings are involved....blunt is good. Sharp is bad.
Interesting on 4-blade setup. I have often mulled over different ideas to make my hog cut better at speed. There are just certain types of vegetation that don't do well unless you go a snail's pace. It's often quicker to just cut at speed, and go over things twice. I mow about 400-500 acres a year commercially, and am always looking at improving.
Though with a 8' twin spindle cutter I think I am SOL. The JD style would be the only option....and that's cutting double the vegetation....in theory requiring twice the HP or half the speed.
Blades at 90 degrees apart, and cutting on the same plane.....you don't have to cut double the material. But I don't see that working with blade timing