Hydraulic/manual pivot tubes on box blades

[froggy]

I have never used a box blade before and I plan on purchasing a box blade in the near future. I was wondering if the hydraulic/manual pivot tube (retractable) is worth the added expense?

 

[GaryM]

Pivot Tube? Do you mean toplink?

 

[Glenn9643]

I think he's probably referring to the scarifiers. Monroe Tuffline builds a box blade with a hydraulic cylinder to raise or lower the scarifiers on the fly, and others may also. I've never used one but would think that it would add substantially to the cost of a box blade. Those scarifiers take a beating and it would have to be well built to hold up. As to whether it's worth the extra money, how much extra? And how much time will you be using the box blade? If it was my bread and butter tool and I worked it every day I would be willing to spend a lot for the convenience.

 

[froggy]

Yes, I was referring to the scarifiers. Sorry for the confusion. On the Landpride boxblades, a retractable scarifier adds about $2,000 to the price.

Would I need this feature if I had top-n-tilt? Would use the boxblade for maintaining about one third of a mile of road.

 

[Glenn9643]

I don't maintain roads with mine but would think that the scarifiers would not be used often for that. Someone else might chime in with better knowledge and experience.
When trying to dig with the box blade I've had to get off the tractor and adjust the depth of the scarifiers several times during a job to accomodate what I was trying to do at the time, and for this type of work the hydraulics would be very beneficial. The top&tilt will make the box work better for you but won't eliminate the benefit of the retractable scarifiers. When digging (a ditch for instance) you'll probably need the scarifiers down to help loosen the soil, roots, etc. and may want to adjust the tilt (side to side) of the blade to make a sloping side to the ditch. The top link adjustment can also make the scarifiers more or less aggressive. Then when you've got the soil loosened up or piled away from where you were digging and want to drag it somewhere you'll need to raise the scarifiers so you won't dig where you don't want to as you move the dirt.
If you're looking at maintaining a gravel road you might look at a dura-grader. A friend of mine bought one a couple of years ago to use on his farm and hasn't cranked his old road grader since he got it.

 

[OkieG]

Like Glenn, I do not maintain gravel roads, but I've read many TBN posts on the subject. I believe scarifiers are used extensively in gravel road mx. Distrubing the gravel down to the bottom of a pothole is how to help prevent/slow it's reforming. Just filling the pothole looks great at first, but it reforms quickly.

My one practical experience was last year, grading a friend's gravel drive, complete with potholes. After a couple passes with scarifiers and then smoothing with the cutitng edges, the drive looked like brand new. Over time, some potholes stayed away, some slowly reformed. Scarifiers are the key to slow reforming.

An hydraulic toplink (or top n tilt) is a great investment for any boxblade user. On the other hand, hydraulic scarifiers are definitely optional for maintaining a gravel drive on an occasional basis, in my opinion...but I would love to have 'em on my boxblade.

The DuraGrader Glenn shared with us looks like an excellent smoothing tool, but will not get to the bottom of a pothole. If Glenn's neighbor is happy with it, then maybe my pothole theory is full of potholes.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

I've recently seen a Landpride boxblade on a TC40D with a lever for manually retracting (rotating) the scarifiers bar. Don't know how well that system works, but it must be much cheaper than an hyd. version??

OkieG

 

[JRP]

I have a Gannon box behind my larger Kubota. I have hydraulic tip link and jydraulic scarifiers. I bought the box ($2000 new) to move dirt, not to grade roads.

For moving dirt the hydraulic scarifiers is great. The box holds/moves about a cubic yard with teeth up. Less with teeth down.

1. With hydraulic scarifiers you have a higher box capacity when moving dirt. Not important for grading.

The teeth can be raised and lowered in about 4 seconds. I do this while backing up. Pull once with teeth down, back and raise, move dirt in second pass. You can sort of do the same thing with hydraulic top and tilt. Tilt box forward for digging, tilt box back the right amount for moving and smoothing.

2. If you are digging and moving dirt you save a tone of time with hydraulic scarrifiers. No getting off the tractor.

The most important spec for a box blade is weight. Mine is about 1100 lb. Paint s least mportant.

If you are on a budget, buy a heavy box with manual scarrifiers but be sure to get a hydraulic top link.

If you appreciate quality and will be using your box, get Gannon brand.

For occasional smoothing of a driveway I would not use a box blade. I saw a post of a road drag called "driveway fixer". I built one 10' wide made from RR rail and I beam. Works tops. You drag the thing with chain. Mine has a 3pt connection that worls with my quick hitch. I can pull it with chain, back up and hook on to it, and carry it away without getting off the tracor.
It can also be used connected to the 3pt.

If you have a long driveway and don't need to level dirt thiw would be a lower cost solution.

 

[froggy]

I want to thank each of you for your advice and comments.

Got some pricing on Woods/Gannon hydraulic box blades and they are cheaper than Landpride.

 

[jinman]

Froggy, did you move? Somerville County? I thought you were in Cooke or Collin County. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif