Methods for removing/installing attachments

[kuby]

I use a 6' crowbar and this helps to move the disc or (what ever) forward and backward and side to side to line up the pins. The tiller does not have pins but rather two verticle plates that you lower your arms into and then you just slide in the pins. I have thought about makeing all my 3pth like the tiller, I will go get a pic so you know what I am talking about.

 

[plaindave]

Thanks for the ideas. I'm already a hammer man. That was the first tool I reached for. Right now I back up the tractor in the shed and lower the box on two 4x4's that level and above grade. After that it's push, shove and beat to get them off.

The anti-sway turnbuckles are open as wide as I can get them. As for the size of the box blade, it's a 60" Land Pride. Going to put the auger back on tomorrow so I'm going to try the wd-40 and backing technique - makes sense that it would work.

You know messing around with this by myself makes me understand why my father sold our old Massey after I moved out. A few more years and I won't be able to muscle around 400 lbs either.

 

[DannyD]

Pats would help a lot. You dont have to have the width, and if you have adjustable links, you can set them and back up to what ever, or as you do get off and move the tractor. I had the same problems you are having, Pats fixed it nice and quick. It aint perfect, but it does work wonderfully

 

[kuby]

Here is the pic of the tiller hitch.

 

[OhioGuy]

Hi Dave,
I know what you mean. I found a good solution for me. If you can store the implement or leave the implement on level concrete or asphalt this works great. Get a pallet for each implement and some swivel casters beefy enough from Harbor Freight or elsewhere. On concrete, I can easily push a 400Lb implement around with no problem. I'll get one arm on, move into position for the other, throw the toplink on and lift it off the pallet. I have a pallet for a Woods RM59. I use two furniture dollys for my 4 ft brush hog. I bought the casters for about $2 a piece. I only broke one in one season.

Good Luck,
Curt

 

[Harper]

Dave,
I have a cone spreader, box blade and finish mower. Cone spreader and finish mower are not to difficult. Spreader is light and finish mower obviously has wheels. I got a heavy duty oak pallet and bought 4 caster wheels and attached them to the bottom. Now I just set my box blade down on the pallet, roll it out of the way and when I want to hook it back up can maneuver it back into position. I don't have the arm spacing problem, but this method does allow you to wiggle the box blade around after you get one pin attached.
Good luck.

 

[DannyD]

I would think the Pats would still work, looks like you have more room than I do. I have to tilt my tiller to get the hooks on, but have learned to do it off the tractor, one hand on tiller, one on lever to lift the bottom links.

I saw some attachments at my local dealer the other day that had that type of arrangement on them. Now if they could put a plate under the tabs, to rest the links in, then you could shim it up to be perfect each time.......back up, lay them in, put in pins and go!

 

[JerryT]

I have both the Quick Hitch (now for sale) and Pat's system. The quick hitch is a little easier to use but totally lacks in "width" vesatility. Pat's is more vesatile, and since it connects from the bottom, not the side, it would solve your problem.