Methods for removing/installing attachments

[plaindave]

Is it just me, or is it really that difficult to remove and install attachments to the 3 pt hitch? I've been doing a lot of land clearing and running a fence line so I'm switching between a box blade and an auger pretty often. No matter how many times I've done it I just can't figure out an easy way to make the changeover. My big problem is I just can't seem to get the lower arms to spread far enough apart to get them off of the pins on the attachment.

Any suggestions for me to try? And don't suggest a quick hitch. Money's tight right now and I'd rather spend it on a toothbar or more fenceposts.


B7800, loader, box blade, auger, and neighbors with the other attachments I don't have.

 

[MMM]

Some implements you can turn pins inward. I use a tape meas and write toplink distance down on implement also so I don't have to fiddle with that.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Dave,

I had the same issue for many years, so when I bought this new tractor, I invested in a quick hitch.

All implements don't fit nicely, so I found the settings for the QH that fit most of them and modified the rest with torch, grinder, and welder.

I am adding a hydraulic top link next week, which will make it even easier.

If you go this way, I found some creative (and cheap!) ways to adapt standard Cat1 pins to the larger diameter needed for the QH.

Here is the one Northern Tool has. Quick Hitch

I bought mine at TSC because it is heavy and shipping would be a lot.

-JC

 

[California]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Any suggestions for me to try? )</font>

I guess I still think like a carpenter... I use a 2x4 stud (8 ft) to pry the arms off the pins. Also to skid the implement into line with the pin holes to hitch up.

This is just the right length for adequate leverage, and I think it is much safer than a long steel bar if it slips and I get bumped by it.

 

[OkieG]

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Removing/installing should not be difficult. It takes a little practice, but the learning curve is steep. Check out this link.

My description is for a brush hog, but the same principles hold true for your boxblade. It's not all that hard. Try it and let me know. Any questions? Ask away. Good luck!

OkieG

 

[stephan]

I find the best things to have available is a large rubber mallet and an adjustable wrench. Try and put the attachment on level ground. Sometimes it pays to rig up something to balance the attachment ready for connection e.g I cut down an old sawhorse to rest the front of my blade against so it's level and easy to attach.

I back to tractor to within an inch or so (in my shed so the ground is level) and stop the tractor without the parking brake on and line up the lower arms for height and width. Then I simple roll the tractor back by hand turning the rear wheel. Because the rear wheel is so big the tractor is not so hard to move.

I'm sure to get some jip over this but trust me it's safe in controlled conditions /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

 

[JerryG]

Dave,
Might I suggest, a dead blow hammer. A regular hammer or anything metal will mess up the arms. A Dead Blow hammer will deliver the power needed to remove the arm and not damage anything.

 

[GregJ]

I used to struggle with the same thing. I recently upgraded my B7500 with telescoping links. There have been a lot of posts on this. It's not an expensive upgrade and it has made a lot of difference to be able to just back up and swing the arms out as far as they will go without having to mess with turnbuckles. I have also made a dolly for my chipper so I can easily move it to the right position. So, between dollies and the new links, it's really easy to swap attachments. Hope this helps.

Greg

 

[normde2001]

"I just can't seem to get the lower arms to spread far enough apart to get them off of the pins on the attachment."

What is the reason for this? The only limiting factor should be the lower arm hitting the rear wheel. Are you using the right category implement for your tractor?

 

[Tdog]

Plaindave, I know what you are talking about. Backing up to the box scraper, the lower arms are flopping about - - you get one lined up, & the other is who knows where. I don't know the answer, short of spending some $$ for a quick hitch. I'm thinking about a 2x4 cut to length & notched to achieve just the right spread for the box.