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  1. #1
    Bronze Member plaindave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    98
    Location
    White Lake, MI
    Tractor
    Kubota B7800

    Default Methods for removing/installing attachments

    Is it just me, or is it really that difficult to remove and install attachments to the 3 pt hitch? I've been doing a lot of land clearing and running a fence line so I'm switching between a box blade and an auger pretty often. No matter how many times I've done it I just can't figure out an easy way to make the changeover. My big problem is I just can't seem to get the lower arms to spread far enough apart to get them off of the pins on the attachment.

    Any suggestions for me to try? And don't suggest a quick hitch. Money's tight right now and I'd rather spend it on a toothbar or more fenceposts.


    B7800, loader, box blade, auger, and neighbors with the other attachments I don't have.

  2. #2
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    800
    Location
    Winn Parish, LA
    Tractor
    Case 380B, Super C

    Default Re: Methods for removing/installing attachments

    Some implements you can turn pins inward. I use a tape meas and write toplink distance down on implement also so I don't have to fiddle with that.

  3. #3
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    546
    Location
    Western PA
    Tractor
    Mahindra 3510

    Default Re: Methods for removing/installing attachments

    Dave,

    I had the same issue for many years, so when I bought this new tractor, I invested in a quick hitch.

    All implements don't fit nicely, so I found the settings for the QH that fit most of them and modified the rest with torch, grinder, and welder.

    I am adding a hydraulic top link next week, which will make it even easier.

    If you go this way, I found some creative (and cheap!) ways to adapt standard Cat1 pins to the larger diameter needed for the QH.

    Here is the one Northern Tool has. Quick Hitch

    I bought mine at TSC because it is heavy and shipping would be a lot.

    -JC

  4. #4
    Super Member California's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,983
    Location
    Sonoma County
    Tractor
    Yanmar YM240, YM186D, and another YM186D

    Default Re: Methods for removing/installing attachments

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( Any suggestions for me to try? )</font>

    I guess I still think like a carpenter... I use a 2x4 stud (8 ft) to pry the arms off the pins. Also to skid the implement into line with the pin holes to hitch up.

    This is just the right length for adequate leverage, and I think it is much safer than a long steel bar if it slips and I get bumped by it.


  5. #5
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    1,129
    Location
    Oklahoma City
    Tractor
    Deere 855 (24hp/19@PTO)

    Default Re: Methods for removing/installing attachments

    <font color="blue"> </font>

    Removing/installing should not be difficult. It takes a little practice, but the learning curve is steep. Check out this link.

    My description is for a brush hog, but the same principles hold true for your boxblade. It's not all that hard. Try it and let me know. Any questions? Ask away. Good luck!

    OkieG

  6. #6
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    165
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Tractor
    Lamborghini 450 Runner, SAME Tiger 70, Kioti CS2610

    Default Re: Methods for removing/installing attachments

    I find the best things to have available is a large rubber mallet and an adjustable wrench. Try and put the attachment on level ground. Sometimes it pays to rig up something to balance the attachment ready for connection e.g I cut down an old sawhorse to rest the front of my blade against so it's level and easy to attach.

    I back to tractor to within an inch or so (in my shed so the ground is level) and stop the tractor without the parking brake on and line up the lower arms for height and width. Then I simple roll the tractor back by hand turning the rear wheel. Because the rear wheel is so big the tractor is not so hard to move.

    I'm sure to get some jip over this but trust me it's safe in controlled conditions [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img].

  7. #7
    Super Member JerryG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    7,212
    Location
    Northwest Arkansas
    Tractor
    MF 1440-4 PowerShuttle

    Default Re: Methods for removing/installing attachments

    Dave,
    Might I suggest, a dead blow hammer. A regular hammer or anything metal will mess up the arms. A Dead Blow hammer will deliver the power needed to remove the arm and not damage anything.

  8. #8
    Platinum Member GregJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    703
    Location
    Washington
    Tractor
    Kubota B7500/LA302FEL/4672BH ; John Deere LX277

    Default Re: Methods for removing/installing attachments

    I used to struggle with the same thing. I recently upgraded my B7500 with telescoping links. There have been a lot of posts on this. It's not an expensive upgrade and it has made a lot of difference to be able to just back up and swing the arms out as far as they will go without having to mess with turnbuckles. I have also made a dolly for my chipper so I can easily move it to the right position. So, between dollies and the new links, it's really easy to swap attachments. Hope this helps.

    Greg

  9. #9
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    3,582

    Default Re: Methods for removing/installing attachments

    "I just can't seem to get the lower arms to spread far enough apart to get them off of the pins on the attachment."

    What is the reason for this? The only limiting factor should be the lower arm hitting the rear wheel. Are you using the right category implement for your tractor?

  10. #10
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Posts
    901
    Location
    SE Louisiana
    Tractor
    BX22

    Default Re: Methods for removing/installing attachments

    Plaindave, I know what you are talking about. Backing up to the box scraper, the lower arms are flopping about - - you get one lined up, &amp; the other is who knows where. I don't know the answer, short of spending some $$ for a quick hitch. I'm thinking about a 2x4 cut to length &amp; notched to achieve just the right spread for the box.

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