Rake Rocks and a landscape rake

   / Rocks and a landscape rake #1  

sherpa

Platinum Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2004
Messages
533
Location
North Carolina Mountains
Tractor
2004 NH TC33D & 2014 NH Boomer 24
My neighbor had his pond dug out. I smooth out the big piles of materal with my box blade. It still has a lot of river rocks in the material. Most of these rocks are head size or smaller. I was thinking about using my landscaping rake to remove the rocks. There are a few big rocks which I plan to avoid with the rake. What do you folks think, will I destroy my rake or will it do the job?
Sherpa
 
   / Rocks and a landscape rake #2  
I’d try it and I don’t think it should hurt your rake if you are not to aggressive. My rock isn’t as big as what you describe but I have had some luck windrowing rock with the rake at an angle. It takes several passes and doesn’t do much for the small gravel size rock. If the “head” size rock is firmly set in the ground it may be to much and the rake might ride over it.

MarkV
 
   / Rocks and a landscape rake #3  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( will I destroy my rake or will it do the job?)</font>

Depends upon the rake, the tractor, and the operator.
1. What size is the rake, and is it rated light/medium/heavy duty?
2. How many hp is the tractor, and do the hydraulics have draft control?
3. What is your previous experience level with that particular rake?

I ask all this, because I had a 7" LD rake behind a 45hp tractor with draft control. My neighbor too, had a lot of sandstone to gather up after filling in a pond. I used the windrow technique, but was apparently too aggressive with the draft control. Took about 10 minutes to break to snap a one inch pivot bolt. Rake broke into two pieces behind the tractor; TPH and index half still on the tractor, rake half laying six feet behind - on the ground.

I traded it for a HD rake, AND started practicing more on my draft control technique. If YOU don't have draft control at all, you shouldn't tackle this job without some way to limit the depth to which the rake tines can bury themselves in the soft dirt left by the bulldozer.

//greg//
 
   / Rocks and a landscape rake #4  
Greg G: I have looked at buying a Landscape Rake but I'm wanting to purchase an 8' wide heavy duty model. What would you suggest?
 
   / Rocks and a landscape rake
  • Thread Starter
#5  
greg_g

1. What size is the rake, and is it rated light/medium/heavy duty?

7 foot and I would say medium duty

2. How many hp is the tractor, and do the hydraulics have draft control?

33HP with draft control

3. What is your previous experience level with that particular rake?

I only used the rake a couple of times in soft landscaped soil.
I really dont want to tear up my rake but I would like to use it on this job if for nothing but experience. I am thinking about letting the neighbor just pick up the rock by hand and then finish the job with my scrape blade.
Sherpa
 
   / Rocks and a landscape rake #6  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm wanting to purchase an 8' wide heavy duty model. )</font>
Well after 84", the selection starts to thin out. Plus you've got a pretty stout tractor. Be prepared for sticker shock, but you might want to check out the LandPride LR3596. I think they START at nearly $1300, and don't even include gauge wheels at that price. Massey Fergusson sells a 96" too, but it's more in the weight/price range of LandPride's lighter duty LR2596.

//greg//
 
   / Rocks and a landscape rake
  • Thread Starter
#7  
You cant move big rock with a landscaping rake. The rock will not stay behind the rake, after you get 5 or 6 rock in the rake they start to roll all around and roll the rake up and you end up with one or none.
Sherpa
 
   / Rocks and a landscape rake #8  
Sherpa

I too learned about raking rocks the hard way. From my experience, if you think that rake is medium duty - that makes it light duty from the perspective of moving rocks. That also decreases the chance that it has gauge wheels. I'm inclined to suggest you NOT to use it on anything bigger than fist-sized rocks.

But if you elect to proceed - especially without gauge wheels - do so with draft control at the most sensitive setting. You want to prevent the tines from penetrating too deep into the loose soil. Ideally, you only want the tines to penetrate deep enough to actually dislodge the rocks. Digging and raking at the same time, only puts more stress on that pivot point. Pretty sure that's how I broke my first rake in half. If the rocks need a little convincing, experiment with the draft control in very small increments - so that the tines only penetrate deep enough to get the rocks moving.

Rake into rows only. If you try to rake the rocks all to a central pile, you'll get in trouble. I looked for the biggest depression within reasonable distance, and lined up my rows with that. I came back later with the box blade, and pushed/pulled the rows into the depression. When it dries out more in the spring, I'll go back and push/pull dirt over the top. If there's no convenient "burial place", rock rows can be centralized with a box blade, and/or scooped up with a loader.

//greg//
 
   / Rocks and a landscape rake
  • Thread Starter
#9  
greg_g
Most of these rocks are already on top of the ground. I did that with the box blade. I was just trying to get them to the other end of the field with the rake. If I could have gotten them to the other end of the field in a pile I could put them where I want with my FEL on my other tractor. I told my neighbor he would just have to move the rocks by hand. I moved a few with the loader but I had to load them by hand so I quit.
Sherpa
 
   / Rocks and a landscape rake #10  
This is what I built and works very well.
 

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