Need pto driveline help

[DJLX]

I don't have alot of experience with implement pto shafts so am asking for some guidance. I have a tiller w/slip clutch thaty I want to put on my new JD2210. It was previously connected to a JD X585 that I traded. The Pto shaft is now too short by at least 6 inches. The triangular shafts appear to be connected to the universal yokes by a roll pin. My question is can I buy from TSC just the triangular shafts or do I have to buy the whole assembly with slip clutch and all?

 

[slowrev]

I don't think you will have to buy the slip clutch, but you might have to get at least one half of the drive line as the yokes are usually welded on th the shafts (inner/outer). I think you might get by with just buying a longer inner or outer piece. The piece that connects to the slip clutch should be cheaper as it does not have the PTO coupler on it.
Ben

 

[DJLX]

Thanks, I'll be going there soon. I could be wrong about the shaft being removable from the yoke.

 

[RickB]

I'll bet you aren't wrong. If the shafts appear to be pinned to the yokes, they are. In theory, you can buy shafting and replace them. You should also buy shielding which if too short can cause problems greater than the obvious safety risk. The shafting is a semi-press fit into the yokes and can be difficult to remove and install without damaging the shield bearing groove or U-joint cross. Not that it can't be done. But if you have no experience with these shafts, be prepared to get some. It may be simpler to purchase a complete stock length shaft with the same size u-joints and a plain implement end yoke and swap your slip clutch onto it, then cut to length.

 

[RalphVa]

I don't know whether you have Orscheln stores in TN. They're in OK and TX. They seem to have more driveshaft pieces to make them up than does TSC.

Ralph

 

[RonR]

I added Pat's system to my Bota and it made my tiller PTO shaft too short. I removed the shield, and the roll pins holding the yoke in.

Tried to find a stick of PTO tube at TSC (for $55!), but they didn't have the right size.

I took the parts to a Big Truck Drive Line specialty shop. They cut and sold me 18 inches of tubing for about $20!

I'd find the best drive line place in your community, take the parts there, and let them do their magic.

It will be done right and probably won't cost you as much as DIY.

My two cents.
ron

 

[DJLX]

You're right, I wasn't wrong /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I found the shafts at TSC and bought both halves. Only had 4ft. sections and they were close to $50 a peice. I have removed the pin but as you have said getting the shaft out of the yoke is different story. The complete driveline assembly at TSC had the splines at both ends so I would have to modify it anyway. Also I noticed it had a square shaft instead of the triangular one. Is there any advantage over one style or the other?

 

[RickB]

There are two major styles of PTO shafts; "metric" and "standard" (for lack of a better term). The U-joints are NOT dimensionally interchangeable. Standard shafts typically use square or rectangular inner profiles and hollow outer profile tubes with a slip sleeve welded on the end opposite the yoke to accept the inner profile. This style cannot be shortened properly without cutting either the yoke or slip sleeve off and rewelding it in phase to the shortened tube. Metric shafts are far more common on the type and size of PTO implements discussed here. They use inner and outer profile shafting of like shapes, usually triangular or "lemon" or sometimes hexagonal. The upside is they can be properly shortened with a hacksaw, sawsall, or chop saw without rewelding or truing of parts. The downside is they are far less tolerant to twisting or prolonged lack of lube of the telescoping elements than standard shafts due to the drastically increased surface area. They are (relatively) inexpensive to manufacture and repair. There is no reason I can think of to replace a properly engineered shaft of either style with a different style. My suggestion was to buy a complete metric shaft of the same series as your existing shaft and swap the slipclutch from it to the new shaft, saving the cost of the slipclutch.

 

[DJLX]

That is exactly what I ended up doing. After trying to get the shaft off the yoke in vain I again headed out to TSC only a different store this time. This one being futher out in the country had a better selection of shafts. As a King Kutter retailer they had KK shafts. They had one that required removing one end from the universal so I could put my exsisting clutch on which I finally managed to do. This worked out good as I didn't have to cut the shafts due to adding Pat's Easy Change thingys. The new shaft was about $136.00 as opposed to the $99.00 for the two 4ft. lengths which I'll return. Thanks for the infomation and your help.

 

[DannyD]

I take mine to the guy that sold me my equipment and he makes up the shafts for me, or cuts the ones to length while I wait. Usually the shaft is 1.00 a foot and labor around 20.00 to cut it, shaft it in the yokes, and make sure it is the right length. He does have the press, cut off saw, and everything to do it of course.

One note, someone mentioned only doing one shaft. I have always understood that this is not safe, that both shafts should be the same length and at least 6" of both shafts should be doubled up........I think I said that right. You should have 6 inches of overlap on each shaft.

Pats system will add about 4" to the length you need. Mine did, but off to the dealer and in a few minutes I was tilling again.